ScottinPollock

Fun and super intriguing abstract, ScottinPollock--existing light only, or did you modify somehow? Seems tricky! And I'm dying to know what your subject was--take a step back, and what do we have?

Hi Nicole...

Existing light from a nearby window, with my hands cupped around the object for the reflections. The object is an ittalia shot glass, taken from top down.

ScottinPollock, I think you're still using Nikon too, right? What do you both think? Good move? I should probably start a separate thread to ask this, eh? But I'm seriously considering making the jump

I still have most of my Nikon gear, but I just don't pick it up much any more. The things I like most about mirrorless are:
1.) Dead perfect auto-focus (for still subjects) every time, every lens, every focal length.

2.) Live exposure/histogram/zebra-ing. It simply makes getting perfect exposure on the first shot. And if I want to blow out some hilights for more shadow detail, I can see exactly where that will be.

3.) IBIS - Tripod? What tripod?

4.) Video is extraordinary, without limitations.

5.) I actually have a capable camera I can put in a coat pocket (depending on lens).

6.) Stellar WiFi - Can instantly copy in camera pics to my server (a Mac), Google Drive, or even YouTube (no mobile device needed).

7.) Mobile app that works everytime, and allows me to tether from phone or tablet, with control of all camera functions (including magnified manual focus with peaking).

The cons:
1.) Tracking focus in most models (other than the A9). X-T3 and other Sonys are good, but not D500 good. Fortunately I don't do BIF and comparable stuff so not an issue for me.

2.) Not great for landscapes and astro... less dynamic range and more noise in low light then FF Nikon, but I can stack. Still it is noticeable.

I went Panasonic because of their amazing DFD contrast focusing. And there is some pretty small, amazing glass for cheap. And while I readily admit a D810 is capable of 2 stops better image quality, the overall quality of image also depends on nailing exposure and focus (something that is an absolute no brainer on mirrorless). And I seem to be getting more "pop" for the kinds of things I do than from my DX Nikons... plus, it's just more fun to use... and did I mention I can carry it in a pocket (c;... without getting "that look" from phone photographers and other standers by.

So yeah, it is hard for me to believe that any experienced photographer would not be excited about many of the new freedoms and features of mirrorless, especially if they're looking for a smaller kit. Definitely go with X-T3 over X-T2 as there have been massive improvements in auto focus and video.

I like how this one turned out... despite the damn dust.



DMC-GX85, OLYMPUS M.30mm, ISO 200, Shutter Speed 0.4, Aperture 3.5

Dunno. Just a thought.

Unfortunately, the D3xxx bodies have incredibly limited settings displayed in the viewfinder and settable without screen diving. Mode, shutter speed, and aperture are about it. I think you can assign ISO to the one customizable function button, but you'd need access to the menus to do it (if not already done). AF modes, and everything else require a trip to the menus or "info" screen.

You may eventually want to look at either a prime lens (non-zoom) or higher end zoom lenses that can be used in lower light and in general have both broader functionality and higher price tags.

I don't recommend spendy lenses on a D3xxx-5xxx body for the simple reason that it will be hit or miss as to how well they will focus.

These bodies have no facility to calibrate the phase detect autofocus with specific lenses, so it is a bit of a crap shoot to get any lens that will focus accurately. Of course you can work around the issue focusing in LiveView, but I don't imagine many shooters want to have to enter that mode when they're using big, fast glass.

If you shoot raw (or avoid it because it takes too long to cull your photos), you owe it to yourself to check out FastRawViewer.

This is an incredibly well thought out tool that makes picking your keepers and moving them to your storage faster and easier than any other tool out there (IMHO).

Fifteen bucks until Sunday.

Unless someone has another solution, I'm thinking that it's time for a trip to the waterfront (a grave for the camera) and then a trip to the Sony store; can't see buying another one of these.

Well this is indeed not a problem with mirrorless as the focus is determined at the sensor. And while Sony probably has the best on sensor phase detect system out there right now, the new full frame mirrorless glass is stupid expensive (not just Sony, but Nikon, Canon, and Panasonic too).

I chose to go Panasonic M43 as the glass is great and reasonably priced. Plus Panasonic has the fastest, most accurate contrast detect AF on the market. Probably the best there is for static scenes, but not so much for tracking moving subjects.

It really is about the kind of photography you do as to which models will address it better.

The LEDs flickered at a frequency that alternated with the scan rate of the sensor. If you were using silent (electronic) shutter that would have exacerbated it greatly.

The three main factors for freezing motion are focal length of your lens, distance from your subject, and the speed of your subject. For example: you need a much higher shutter speed for college athletes than grade school girls, or with a 200mm lens than a 55mm (given the same distance).

Given the specs of your camera and lens, you can calculate what's necessary for any given speed and distance using a little trigonometry. I have an article and spreadsheet that will let you plug in the numbers to see the results.

need to see how long i can delay sleep for.

 

Up to 10 minutes… or you can turn it off entirely.

I snagged a G9 last year and have rarely picked up one of my Nikons since. It is not without its quirks (see my what's wrong series of videos), but currently there is not a camera out there I would trade it for.