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Unless someone has another solution, I'm thinking that it's time for a trip to the waterfront (a grave for the camera) and then a trip to the Sony store; can't see buying another one of these.
Well this is indeed not a problem with mirrorless as the focus is determined at the sensor. And while Sony probably has the best on sensor phase detect system out there right now, the new full frame mirrorless glass is stupid expensive (not just Sony, but Nikon, Canon, and Panasonic too).
I chose to go Panasonic M43 as the glass is great and reasonably priced. Plus Panasonic has the fastest, most accurate contrast detect AF on the market. Probably the best there is for static scenes, but not so much for tracking moving subjects.
It really is about the kind of photography you do as to which models will address it better.
I am afraid Nikon DSLR continuous autofocus in video is pretty poor. The reason is that it uses a rather rudimentary contrast detect focus algorithm instead of the advanced phase detection system used for stills.
You'd be much better using a mirrorless model like the Z6 that has phase detect points on the sensor.
The three main factors for freezing motion are focal length of your lens, distance from your subject, and the speed of your subject. For example: you need a much higher shutter speed for college athletes than grade school girls, or with a 200mm lens than a 55mm (given the same distance).
Given the specs of your camera and lens, you can calculate what's necessary for any given speed and distance using a little trigonometry. I have an article and spreadsheet that will let you plug in the numbers to see the results.
I snagged a G9 last year and have rarely picked up one of my Nikons since. It is not without its quirks (see my what's wrong series of videos), but currently there is not a camera out there I would trade it for.
The wider the focal length, the more possible issues with ND filters. But you can certainly use one filter on both lenses by purchasing the larger filter and using a step up ring with it on the smaller lens.
So last week I picked up a Wacom Intuos S pen tablet. This is their smallest (and cheapest) tablet, at around US$70. It is connected via USB, with a BlueTooth version available for about $10 more, and a larger version (the M) for about $200.
As I am not an artist, I thought the smaller one would be fine for my intended usage, which is a pen interface for better control over selections and brushing, and pressure sensitivity for variable flow with dodging/burning and masking overlays and adjustment layers.
For such a minimal outlay of cash, it has exceeded my expectations by an order of magnitude. The software has come a long way since I last worked with a Wacom device, and is configurable in a myriad of ways on a per program basis.
There are plenty of reviews online so I won't go into any more detail (unless any of you have questions). Suffice it to say it has significantly increased my productivity in post, and if you're still mousing around with selection and brush tools it is definitely worth a look.
Given we've lived in a 16 by 9 media world for the better part of the last ten years… i.e. most of us view photos posted on a 16x9 display (TV's, computer screens, phones), I can't help wonder why that, with the exception of video, I rarely see images in this aspect.
Do you ever compose with 16x9 in mind when shooting? Do you ever crop or print to 16x9? If not, why not? Are there actual reasons why you don't… or is it just due to the viewfinder being 3x2, or that print services offer mainly either 3x2 or 5x4 aspect sizes?
Would you be interested in participating in a challenge requiring composition and deliverables only in 16x9?