M.Beier

The problem with using P-U foam is the off-gassing of chemicals from the affordable products. Using PAX drawers is a good idea, but I would rather use neoprene wraps like these to protect your lenses.

Powerful images of a city.  I like # 8 & 10, but that man sitting on the side walk is excellent.

A Few shots from around the city centre.

A wise person once said., "Life is like a camera.  Just focus on what's important, capture the good times, develop from the negatives and if things don't turn out, take another shot."  Unknown author.

Nikon D70 with Nikkor 28~105mm Lens.

1/250s,f/6.3, ISO @200, Focal Length @ 105mm, no flash and used Multi-Segment Metering.

Thanks so much for viewing.

Tony

I use an older style Crumpler Karachi Outpost Large or Kata BUG-255 UL backpack to carry my Tamron 150-600 on a camera body plus monopod.  They are also big enough to hold a Sigma 135-300/2.8 with a camera body.

Unfortunately both backpacks are out of production now.

Ahh...yes...first world problems!  I have  too many lenses so I need a new bag!    I'd say that's a good problem to have!

I have a rolling bag that holds all of my bodies / lenses with the exception of my 200-400.  It has its own case / pack that it came with.  Depending on the plans / travel, etc. it stays with us, but isn't necessarily brought out on a daily basis.  On the reverse when I know I'm going to use it, It is on the monopod and a D4 attached to it ready for shooting before I get there.  In fact, that is true with other gear as well.  When I'm shooting indoor sports, I'll typically take one body with the 24-70 and the other with the 70-200.  In those cases I will definitely carry extra batteries / cards but I frequently won't carry my bag.  But I don't have as many lenses as you do...I hope to have that problem some day!

I guess I could say that in my "case" I really don't normally have the need to work out of my bag.  When I'm shooting sports, I may bring and use all of my gear, but I know what I'm going to be shooting and have already planned based on location as to whether or not the 200-400 is coming along.  At most I might make one lens change (or pull out a flash) during some of the more unique events.  Other than that, no real issue.

This one might need a bit of an explanation... The catholic church framed by a portal covered in spruce spray and with the unmistakably pagan mistletoe.

If somebody wants to read the shooting data for these, a click on the photo will lead to the gallery where the EXIF is available under Options.

I have thought about doing a single-lens challenge for a while.

Doing it like the topic title leaves it open to zooms or even compacts as well as primes and we can all use whatever equipment we have available. I will start out with a favourite f/l on the D700, the 35 mm and I will start with the week between November 7 and 13. If anyone else thinks this is a good idea, just shoot along with me the week you want. I will run this as a separate thread for each week, just like our other challenges and exercises.

Big cameras call attention to themselves (and their users) even if they're just being carried over the shoulder. And, when you add a largish modern lens, even more so. Of course, you can go the opposite route and try to look touristy. Then people sometimes go out of their way to avoid looking at you. LOL

Really wide lenses help because you can point away from the action a bit and still capture it. But, it's true... you have to look at ease with the camera. No fumbling allowed! You should have all your controls preset so that you only need to raise the camera to your eye and press the shutter button. Having the camera set to either aperture priority or manual using a preset exposure (or the sunny 16 rule) is usually the way to go.

--Ron

And that is even 'lightweight' compared to the 150-600 or the primes 400(2.8) 600(4), 800(5.6)... last 3 I don't even think I'd be comfortable with doing handheld shots for a full day...

I can imagine. I've never hefted those lenses, but my 70-200mm f/2.8 is stout enough. 

For birding, one of the 150-600 lenses from either Tamron or Sigma or the 200-500 from Nikon are the best relatively affordable options.

The old FX 70-300 works well in low light, but it *does* get soft at the tele end. I haven't tried the new AF-P DX lenses yet. They are all a bit on the short side for birds as well.

Lots of great viewpoints here.

Personally, I lasted about a week trying to be a "get it right in the camera" guy.  I would make lots of exposure mistakes, learned how to "fix" them in LR, and in turn let that translate into better shooting technique.  I didn't have the background that a lot of you have, so my learning to shoot ran right alongside my learning how to use post applications.  I do a lot better with exposure now, and will always use LR for cropping (because I love experimenting with different angles, widths, etc.), and honestly, I probably try a vignette or blur on 75% of what I shoot.  I'm not out to impress anyone but myself, so I play with an image until it looks good to me, and then I move on.  I have a couple of Topaz plugins (Adjust and B&W Effects II), as well as the NIC plugins.  I'll make a few tweaks on an image, and something will "tell" me to see what a B&W conversion looks like.  Sometimes I keep it, sometimes I don't.  I'm probably 70/30 photographer/artsy guy.