akanarya

I think with any long reach telephoto lenses you have to get use to using different settings and higher shutter speeds for sharper images. Even with my nikon 80-400 when holding hand held and shooting at fast moving objects 1/1250 doesn't cut it. I use between 2500 to 3200 of a second shutter speed when capturing Hawks, Eagles, ext and my photos are razor sharp. When using 1/2000 I notice the picture are softer.

I think some of you know that I've been taking a year-long "workshop" from Don Giannatti, titled "Project 52 Pros," which is specifically geared to train photographers to do commercial work. My year is coming to an end, and I can say that it has been one of the best things I've ever done to push myself and improve my photography. I still have much to learn, but it's been an excellent experience. 

 

Anyhow, Don may be moving away from the Project 52 format…at the very least he is changing some things about how it works. I'm ready to hop on board whenever he opens up his next Project 52 (if he does). 

 

In the meanwhile, he has started offering shorter 8-week workshops that are focused on specific topics in photography. Lately he has been working on a portraiture course in which you study the work of one of the contemporary "masters" each week, dissect and analyze their work and style, and then use what you learn to inspire a work of your own. (The photographers he lists as subjects for study are Victor Skrebneski, Karsh, Sarah Moon, Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts, Dan Winters, Jeanloup Sieff, and Emily Shur.) 

 

He is already running one of these 8-week courses and is about to start a new one, which I have signed up for. I think it's going to kick my butt. But...I'm just putting it out there in case one of you wants to join me! 

 

A couple things to note: 1) It's ridiculously inexpensive ($75 for the entire course). 2) It's NOT for beginners--you must know your way around your camera. 3) He has a "minimum gear required" list, which you can check out on the web page.

 

Here's a link where you find out more: http://www.lighting-...trait-workshop/

Another factor to remember when comparing flash on a Pentax with flash on a D610 is the lower noise in the Nikon files. This means that you can raise ISO the step needed to get the same reach from the weaker flash.

I like my SB910-s and don't find them too heavy or bulky, but then I used Metz 60 and 45 potatomashers in the film days...

I've got an SB700. From my limited use it is pretty darn good. Much better than my Metz 52 on my Pentaxes. The TTL works heaps better. But as I said I really haven't put it through its paces. Flash isn't something I've had much use for.

The SB800 is a workhorse without the overheating problems of the sb900. It works, and works well. The problem might be for how long it has worked well for the previous owner... Both condensers and flash tube have a finite life and a professional flash that has been in use for at least 7 years might be on the way out. If you can find one that has seen light amateur use, it is still one of the best flash guns you can get.

The SB700 is well worth looking at too. It has a lower GN, hasn't got any sync port and can't use external power packs, but they are about the same price new with a warranty as an at least 7 years old sb800. They are very dependable units with an easier to learn interface than the sb800.

Finally able to use my new lens at a wedding. Shot from a balcony, which seemed like a mile away, probably about 500mm.

I used 28-75 on crop sensor, pentax K5.

It was wonderfull, It was the one that I regret to sell.

It isnt so popular on ff, I wonder also why,

may be it hasnt vr or not crisp as on apsc, I dont know.

There is some sharpness and light falloff in the corners on FX, but one can work around these limitations, even with the low resolution D700. On the D800 the region between sharp and unsharp looks a bit strange because of the less than stellar microcontrast. It is very good for it's price as it has other advantages...

Let's say for a minute I decided that I am going to use Aperture Priority (even though Manual would be better).

 

If I wanted to bring down the ambient exposure but not affect the flash exposure, would I just dial down EC?  Or, would I have to dial up FEC to compensate for the dialed down EC too?

 

Here's something to keep in mind when using a flash - and you'll be able to solve ALL problems associated with using a flash - regardless of shooting mode!

Without a flash, we have the "exposure triangle" - F-stop, Shutter Speed and ISO.  With flash you have added two more parameter - flash power and distance of flash to subject (not distance of camera to subject!)  The amount of light thrown on subject decreases by the 1/R-square rule so your ambient background unless you are shooting in a 8x8 closet will NOT be lit by the flash.  So, while your subjects exposure is affected by f-stop, flash power, flash distance, & ISO, your background ambient exposure will be controlled by the exposure triangle again - F-stop, Shutter Speed and ISO.

 

When you are on Aperture Priority and you dial in EC values you are telling your camera to change shutter or ISO to affect the overall exposure of the whole image - which includes the ambient background.  If you change FEC, you are only telling the Flash to raise or lower it's output power to some value other than the calculated power based on data from the camera - and remembering that flash effectiveness has very limited distance, only your subject's exposure will be affect and the ambient background much less or not at all (unless you are in an 8x8 closet!!!)

 

Truth be known, I have never successfully shot with aperture priority with my D7100 or D90.  I think Manual with the Nikon CLS system is the only way to go because basically with the CLS TTL you are really in aperture priority - you keep the shutter speed at highest sync speed of the flash, keep the ISO at lowest possible and start shooting with the desired aperture - aka "aperture priority" -  the flash will do the rest for you. When it gives you the beep warning of not enough power, up the ISO by a stop etc.  

 

I shoot exclusive with 2 speed lights (SB700s, both off camera in soft boxes) for all my eventsand model photography, indoors or out. 

 

Hope this makes sense! 

I rented the Nikon 24-70 last year for a few days.  Loved it. but it is costly.  The Sigma is my first non-Nikon lens.  I will give it one more week before making my final thoughts on keeping it or not.  As of today, I like it.  I don't need the extra equipment most shooters need for daily work, but I don't want a sub-par piece of equipment either.  The extra $1000 for the Nikon 24-70 is just a bit more than I can handle right now.

 

What are your thoughts on the photo I submitted above?  Particularly the quality of the lens?  This was handheld, walking through the park when I stumbled upon this crane who allowed me to take his photo.

I have to agree...It is all about what works best.  I also feel more comfortable sticking with the Nikon lenses as I need to be able to work between bodies and lenses quickly and not have to think about what I'm doing or which lens I have on the camera.  Since I mostly shoot sports, I tend to shoot with two bodies with different lenses on each.  Last night I had the 24-70 on my D600 and the 70-200 on my D4.  Most people don't need to switch quickly in the middle of action, so they change lenses when they need / want a different framing.  I usually have one or more other lenses and a TeleConverter available as well if I do need to change to something other than I start with.

 

I have had the Nikon 24-120 and have the 24-70.  The 24-120 is a great walk around lens in my opinion and, I may eventually purchase one again to throw on a body when I don't feel like hauling gear or when I don't necessarily even plan to take photos, but take a camera along "just in case".  I have the DX 18-135 that I do this with now on my D7000 but I don't intend to keep it when I sell the D7000.

 

In terms of image quality only, your best bet would be to spend LOTS of money on high end prime lenses.  Your next best bet would be to go to the 24-70 and 70-200 combination - probably two of Nikon's best selling high end lenses.  In fact, I don't know of any pro photographer who shoots Nikon who doesn't have both these lenses - pretty much the same for Canon users too!

 

If I'm going out with photography as my goal, then I'm taking the gear I think I need to get the shot I want.  If I'm just walking around and maybe taking some photos, I'll take the lens I think will fit with where I'm going.  If I'm not sure of that, I'll be using the 24-70 and crop in post processing to get the framing I wanted. 

Going to more than about 3X zoom range usually means greater compromise than below, that is how the 24-70 and the 70-200 can be so much better than zooms with greater range.

Sometimes portability means more than absolute quality, and the vignetting is easily corrected even if you have to use a wider than ideal aperture. Both lenses are good, but the Nikon or Tamron 24-70 are even better. Which one is the better choice is very much up to the photographer, only you know how you like to use filters and if price or weight is more important to you.

For me personally, the deciding factor would be ergonomics as I don't like having to fumble with the controls. That is one of the reasons I avoid third-party lenses as I mostly use primes and change lenses a lot. I hate having to think about witch way to turn the rings on the particular lens I have mounted at the moment.

I just bought the Sigma 24-105.

It takes a 82cm filter.  This size filter is expensive.

It is heavy, as heavy as a 105 macro.

But I do like it

I took this photo yesterday with the 24-105.

+1 for Peter's arguments

The choice between the Sigma and the 24-120 is not an easy one. They both vignette about equally on FX unless stopped down to ~6.3. The Nikon controls twist in the usual direction instead of the Canon way. The deciding factor is probably weight and the filter size. Quality filters are a lot more expensive in 82 than in 77 mm, and far less are available unless you use a square system.