dragon49

Red-whiskered Bulbul in Miami yesterday.
 

Part of a scene - sports burst.  The camera chose the settings except for the exposure bias.  I tend to up this when shooting birds in trees.

Nikon P1000
 

F-stop f/5.6

Exposure time 1/250 sec.

ISO speed ISO-400

Exposure bias +0.3 step

Focal Length 252 mm

35mm focal length 1400

Cropped from 4608 X 3456 to 4029 X 2363.  No additional post-processing performed.

This superzoom does have its issues, but it can take some great photos.  I’m very happy with this one.

Laughing Gull in Miami - 04/06/2024.  Part of a scene - sports burst.  The camera chose the settings, as I always use these automatic modes:
 

Technical information

Model COOLPIX P1000
ISO 140
Focal length 234 mm
35mm focal length 1300
Flash did not fire
f-stop f/8.0
Shutter speed 1/500 sec

This is the original uncropped pic with no post-processing.
 

Ring-billed Gulll taken with my P1000:

F-stop/f/6.3

ISO 100

Exposure time 1/640th of a second
Focul Length 324 mm
 

I'm glad the batteries worked out for you.  Regarding the firmware, I'm very happy with the camera, and it's extremely unlikely new firmware will have an advantages that would interest me.

Dragon49, the idea is that you have a backup of the previous version in the Hard Disk to downgrade it if anything happen. Or if the new firmware doesn't have anything interesting to you, don't upgrade.

My cameras are old, so I suppose no new firmware in the future, so for me not problem at all.

 

EN-EL20 Newmowa batteries, passed the test period.

The problem for Nikon is that half the BMS is in the chip in the batteries. If a thermal rush or some other event happens with a third-party battery that doesn't have the failsafes the originals do, Nikon could still be held accountable in some jurisdictions. This is a risk they won't take. There is very little risk involved, but the value is larger than 0.

 

There is always some unused parts in the communication protocols that are reserved for future functions. These don't show up when a third-party manufacturer scans the bus to reverse-engineer the protocol. This is what the original manufacturers use to shut them out.

Appreciate the info.  

Just chiming in now that I've had my P1000 for a little more than ten months now and have had no problems with the "knockoff" EN-EL20 Newmowa batteries.  

There is no way I'm ever updating the firmware though, for fear of new versions disabling the non-OEM batteries.

Here is the main Reddit thread:

https://www.reddit.c...rking_with_the/

Google searches on the subject bring up the situation on other webpages as well.  Looks like a firmware update disabled the non-OEM batteries, as one of the comments near the top describes a third-party-battery that used to work but is now blocked with an LCD warning.  Many Z8 users with third-party batteries inserted receive the LCD warning, "This battery is unable to provide data to the camera and cannot be used.  For safety, chose a battery designed for use in this camera."  Ironically, the battery is able to provide enough data to the camera to display the error message, and was good enough to power it enough to take photos and videos before Nikon bricked it.

I'm extremely happy with my third-party "knockoff" En-El20 batteries for My P1000.  The disheartening news is now making me sure to NEVER upgrade the firmware on my camera.  I just downloaded the current, latest, (V 1.6) firmware and made a few backups, to cover the event that Nikon gets really scummy and has Snapbridge on my iPhone trick me into upgrading the firmware, or otherwise has the software or some other sneaky OTA trick upgrade it against my will and brick my perfectly safe and perfectly working batteries.

What's going here?  Is this really, really a safety/overheating issue, where OEM batteries are safe, and third-party ones are not, or is this an unethical, disgusting money grab?  One can buy the OEM from Nikonusa for $72.95:

https://www.nikonusa...on-battery.html

Or from B&H for $69.00
 

https://www.bhphotov...on_battery.html
 

Or they can get a two pack (same capacity) from Amazon for between $26.63:

https://www.amazon.c...01M27X25G/HJ1ZQ

and $42.42:

https://www.amazon.c.../dp/B08KSHD5X9/


 

The behavior you described, where the numbering resets and multiple folders with the same name are created, can occur due to a limitation in the way the Nikon D7000 handles file numbering. This behavior is not unique to the D7000 and can be observed in other Nikon camera models as well.

Nikon D7000 uses a four-digit file numbering system for images. After reaching the maximum number (e.g., DSCN0999), the numbering will reset to DSCN0001. Additionally, when a new folder is created.

Your answer helped me figure out the problem - sort of.  I don't have all the specifics worked out, but I see the core issue.  I'm looking at photos from the date in question, and I see what happened.  The camera reached the limit at DSCN9999, then started a new folder and must have reset the counter.  I still don't get how I ended up with duplicate file names though.
 

So, this wasn't me neglecting to format the card.  And, FYI, the camera does not reset file numbering after each format.

Something is definitely going on.  I see targeted ads for the P1000 every day of my life, and they are getting cheaper and cheaper.  Abe's of Maine is now down to $769.00:

https://www.abesofma...ra_1039141.html

Maybe I can get this rolling again with a Red-winged Blackbird in a pretty pose:

Coolpix P1000

F-Stop F5

Exposure time - 1/250th of a second

ISO Speed - ISO-360

35mm Focal Length - 700

Bump - nothing is wrong with the camera.  The lens is very sensitive to being disturbed, so If I bend down to tie my shoelaces and gently knock the extended lens against a knee, this may bring up the message indicating I need to turn the camera off, then back on.

Choosing the right Sd card is very much important. Sandisk Extreme Pro would be a perfect choice. It has read speeds of 200MB/s and write speeds up to 140MB/s, with a Video Speed Class 30 rating.

I bought a higher capacity version of your suggestion and have been using it for a while.

https://www.amazon.c...uct/B07H9VX76D/

I figured out the main issue, which is a known problem with the P1000.  In JPG - fine mode, after a burst of 7 shots, there is around a 3.4 second delay before you can take another picture.  In fact, the camera is completely frozen during the delay.  I don't bother with RAW, since after a RAW burst, the delay is > 8 seconds, and when birding, this would be unbearable.  I do, however, sometime encounter further delays, which I'd like some feedback on.  Sometimes, after multiple bursts, there are additional delays in the middle of bursts, with the screen showing something moving, as if it's trying to be the equivalent of a PCs busy cursor icon.  Is this delay caused by my card, or the camera?

Also, when transferring photos form my USB 3.0 card reader to my laptop, I only get speeds between 75-80 MB/s.  Is it normal for transfer speed to be much slower than the advertised write speed for SD cards.

 

I used the camera for 4 hours today.  I have the auto-shutoff set to 30 minutes, so it' s always on when I use it.  During this time, the message to power off and then back on happened once.  Has nothing to do with trying to zoom during the buffer "time out" period, as I didn't do that today.

Definitely, reach out to B+H sooner than later for a replacement.

I figured out the main issue with the zoom unresponsiveness.  It's just the stupid buffer.  When birding, I'm always in a burst mode, and after the 7 shots, the camera is completely unresponsive for between 3 and 4 seconds.  I've seen this in some notes before but lack the patience and caring to test the exact timing.  As I'm composing, I found this this page - https://www.imaging-...kon-p1000A6.HTM, which states that with JPG - fine, the delay is 3.6 seconds.  I had initially thought that the top right zoom control was bad, as I always use this for zoom, and it was always more than 4 seconds after when I tried the zoom control on the left size which always worked.  I also just tested, and the left zoom is also unresponsive for between 3-4 seconds after the burst completes.  

That leaves us with the message telling me to power on and off the camera.  I can live with having to do this once every 2 hours or so for the rest of my life but am worried this may be indicative of a bigger problem that could get worse, and if I wait too long, the warranty will expire.

Here is Nikon's canned response to my original questions:
 

If this does not help, then we regret the camera must be sent to our Nikon Service department. 

I replied back to the Nikon agent, asking about the seriousness of the 1 remaining issue.  In your opinion, should a reset not fix it, is it important enough to start an exchange with B&H?  The week or 2 of time having to use my lesser reach B6000 would be aggravating.

Ty

 

The diagonal angle of view is about 3.5˚ at 700 mm.
Your feral hog takes up roughly 1/4 of the framed area. Let’s say that the dimensions in the photo is around 8x5’4”. This means that the diagonal is 9’7”.

Some simple trig gives a distance of around 50 yards or so. Given how approximate the inputs are, let’s say between 45 and 55 yards.

Many thanks!

Trigonometry is not simple for me.