tonyzoc

I don't know specifically with the FG, but I've seen cameras with a secondary mirror behind the primary mirror that's used to reflect light to a photocell in the base of the mirror housing.

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its rumor but if true another game changer of lens tamron 35-150mm F/2.0 to F/2.8



https://nikonrumors....mibextid=Zxz2cZ

I don't quite understand mass appeal of this lens. It's $2000, it a stop faster than other lenses in this range, it does have a highly rated IQ... but how useful is 35-150? Id rather have a 24-70 and a 70-200 at f/2.8. Id rather mount a 35/1.8G, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 when I needed a faster lens. Maybe I need to walk around with this lens for a few days. I got a friend with a Sony who thought it was the greatest lens ever.

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My favorite from early AF era, it's 35-70mm f/2.8D AF.
People forgot about it, but it was great and useful. The quality is very OK and now the price it's interesting too.
I used a lot for work in events with another old friend of everybody in combination the Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-D NIKKOR ED
The performance of this pair using Nikon D3x it's more than nice.

Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 AF ZOOM-NIKKOR
https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/3570.htm

Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-D NIKKOR ED
https://www.kenrockw...nikon/80200.htm

I have both of these lenses along with the 20-35/2.8 D. The 35-70 and 80-200 (push pull version) I got for under $100 each. The 35-70 tends to develop haze but it's a fairly easy disassemble and clean process with several YouTube videos detailing the work. All 3 make for a nice set to use with an N90s or F4. Although the 80-200 and the F4S are a hearty handful.

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The AF 80-200/2.8D works fine in D3x and D4. With only 24.4Mpx and 16.2.Mpx and old sensors.

Maybe D850 with 45.4 Mpx it is not the most adequate to work together with the old AF 80-200/2.8D.
I think that D850 has problems with more lenses about the same as question. Not only the AF 80-200/2.8D.

Guess who is looking for a cheap D3s to work at night with high ISO and only 12.1 Mpx [emoji38]

D850 is too much resolution and Mpx for the kind of work, that I am looking for. Sometimes can cause troubles for me.

I use the 80-200/2.8 D on my D700 and it is reasonably sharp in the center at 2.8... not compared to modern pro lenses but compared to most lenses of that era.

I've recently added 2 lenses to use on the D700 and on my Z5 with the FTZII, both Tamron, the
SP 15-30mm f/2.8 Di VC USD and the 100-400mm f/4.5-6.3 Di VC USD. Both are relatively cheap and excellent IQ. While I have a 28-75/2.8 Tamron to fill the gap, and it's not bad, I'm considering something better like a 24-70. I do have the Z 24-70/4 for the Z5 and its good enough for me considering the 2.8 high price.




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After I left the British Army in 1958 i wanted to get into 'Medical Photography' but no jobs so did 'Microbiological Research' with May & Baker Company, then after getting the first of my Photography Qualifications managed to get a job with 'Breda Studios' in Barking, Essex England - they had a contract to do all the Press Photos for the 'Barking Advertiser' newspaper - I was put saving all their dreadful negs in the Darkroom but occasionally got a Press Photo assignment -- however, using the pre-war Zeiss CONTAX III with it's very small viewfinder was often cutting of top of heads of VIP's such as The Mayor !
One of the Partners had been in the RAF in Singapore - CHEEEP Cameras ! He had a couple of weird cameras called 'Asahi Pentax' thsn nobody had ever heard of with weird lenses called 'Takumars' when all we knew were Leitz Elmars, Zeiss Tessars and Sonnars - but the RESULTS !!! one day I spotted a small crowd of Camera-Starved Brits pressing their noses to the window of the Local Camera Dealers -- I rushed over -- inside was ONE ONLY 'Japanese Camera -- an Asahi Pentax S3' priced £87 ( a FORTUNE !! ) in Pride of Place !
I rushed in, offered my CONTAX in part exchange and rushed out , the Proud Owner of an Asahi Pentax !
Several years and many Photo awards later I sold it for £20 to a Bloke. About 40 years later he contacted me - " Peter -- that camera you sold me doesn't work -- do you want it back?" -- well he delivered a Dusty Box -- inside was my ORIGINAL 1961 Asahi Pentax S3 all filthy ! I cleaned body , took off base-plate , lubricated the Cogs and Levers and tried it -- it 'Creaked Into ACTION once again !'
Now I cannot show the photos as the Nikon UPLOADER will not allow it for some reason ! Only ONE photo allowed ! 31527021805_71a4a4e5d0_c.jpg

I'm a little late to this post...but...
I believe the S3 was the same as the H3 sold in the states under Honeywell distribution. My aunt, who was a WWII vet, became a medical photographer in NYC. The hospital she worked was often where pro sport stars of NY went. She had given me a picture she took of Babe Ruth a week or two before his passing. Also pics of Joe DiMaggio and even an autographed Joe Namath pic. Anyway, in her later years she gave me all here cameras, including the Pentax H3 with a 55mm f/2 auto-takumar (which I still have and works fine), a Nikon F with the 58/1.4, 55/3.5 micro, and the 105/2.5 lenses. She also gave me a Rolleiflex Automat MX. I did sell off the Nikon and Rolleiflex, unfortunately, but I've since repurchased a couple of Nikon F's and 3 Rolleiflexes. I'm guessing I'm not the only fool who sold off their film cameras in the late 90s only to repurchase them in the 2020's.

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Well I managed to find 2 MB-1s for $24 plus shipping. One had a broken door so I took the hinge pin out and used it to fix my original mb-1. The 2nd mb-1 worked fine. So I have an extra one now. The hinge pin consists of two pins with a spring between them. All 3 parts slip out the top of the hinge. The bottom only allows the thinner tip post though. So to remove the door, there is a little hole you can push a paper clip into to push the pin down.

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So this week I ended up getting the Z5 with the 24-70/4 S lens and the FTZii adapter. I also got the battery grip. The lens is very sharp and I like the image rendering. I'm still figuring out how I want to use the autofocus...but I'm impressed with eye focus and animal eye focus. It works really well. One thing I'm disappointed with is the battery grip...no vertical controls or release. There are 3rd party grips that have a release, but they use a cable to the remote port.

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More than likely any fix you do yourself will be short lived, so you're better of sending it out for a CLA. FM2 and FE2 still fetch a higher price and I can only see it getting higher in the future. Its worth spending $125 +/- for a cla.

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B&H have compiled a list of the surviving repair shops as of a few years ago. https://www.bhphotov...ra-repair-shops

It should be somewhere to start…

Thanks very much

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The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

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I've got an FE and I have an FM coming later in the week. The FE has the Type E screen, which is pretty nice but I'd like a K for it. I guess the FM came out before the FE. I was surprised that it didn't have easily changeable screens...like my Pentax MX. It's not a bid deal as I rarely ever change a screen once I got the one I like. I do like the FE quite a bit and will probably add a FE2 in the future. I've never shot with an FM, but I have used several Pentax MX over the years and I'm ok with the diode metering. One think I like about the MX is the shutter speeds and metering are right next to each other...I'm curious to see how I will like the FM with shutter speed on the left and metering on the right. When I bought my first MX back in 1980 I really wanted the FM, but it was $70 more and in those days, I was still in school and money was tight. 40 years later I finally got my FM [emoji3]

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I've recented picked up a Nikkormat ELw and a Nikon EL2 both with the AW-1 auto winder. Both auto winders needed to motor gear replaced. You can find them on eBay sold by Sover Wong or you can buy direct from him. I started repairing the AW-1 with full disassembly, but after a couple of repairs I could the best way to tackle this is as follows...
Heat up the top leatherette cover with a heat gun or hair drier...get it hot and peel off the cover.
Remove the 2 screws holding a collar at the drive hole
Remove the metal plate...I think about 7 screws all exactly the same
With that cover off you can see the nylon gear. Check it with a magnifier for a thin crack.
Remove the gear with needle nose or forceps
Heat up the replacement gear (assuming it's brass) and with tweezers position it and tap it down. I used a screw driver with a small socket head and a hammer. Light taps and it will slide down into position with the motor shaft flush to the top of the gear
That's it...reassemble and test before gluing the leatherette back in place
If it still doesn't work then the gears might have seized up requiring a full disassembly and clean and lube.
I've had one gear replacement go smoothly as above, and a second drive had to be disassembled and cleaned and lubed.

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I have a Nikkormat FTn. It's a great companion to my Nikon Photomic FTn.

A little late to this but... I'm also late to Nikon collecting but in a short time I now have a F2A and a F2 Photomic. I recently added a Nikkormat FTN and a ELW. The ELWs meter responds to light but is way off, so the A and metered manual is useless. So I have an EL2 with an AW-1 winder coming any day now. The AW-1 is not functional but it sounds like the motor gear needs replacing, which I can get cheap enough. I've also added lenses...AIs 50/1.8, 55/3.5 micro, 35/2, 105/2.5, 43-86/3.5 and 80-200/4.5. In Non-AI I have 2 50/1.4s. I like the Nikkormat FTN very much. It's a black body in decent condition and I'm putting my first roll through it now. I mostly collect Pentax and Exakta. The FTN is comparable to a Spotmatic SP but the Nikkormat has mirror lockup and open aperture metering. One think I really like is how cheap really good AI/Non-AI Nikkor lenses are. Comparable Pentax lenses run 2-3 time more, probably because they are not as many out there. I guess I'm hooked on Nikon's now...I've been watching FM, FM2 and F3 auctions lately...

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The first thing I'd try to do is see if you can pull the mirror down. Use a wooded toothpick and don't force it. I've seen on some cameras where the mirror foam gets sticky as it degrades and keeps the mirror stuck in the up position preventing the completion of the cycle. If the mirror comes down, check if the foam is sticky and if so, you'll need to replace it. If it does come down, try to then cock the shutter. If it stuck up and doesn't come down with a light pull, then something more severe is wrong.

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Thank You for your reply.
Just got back in town and check the mirror and it is already down. Seems to move freely. I did notice that the meter does not seem to be working and the batteries are new and no corrosion at all anywhere. Any other ideas ??

If it's not firing at M250 and the mirror is moving freely then there is a problem that's more than electronic. The FA is a nice camera and it's holding value pretty well. If it's in good cosmetic condition I'd sent it out for repair assuming you can find someone who can fix it.

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I picked up a nice F2A this week...my first. The meter wasn't working but the camera is in very nice condition. Turns out the battery compartment negative terminal broke loose. I epoxyed it back into position and it's working great now. I paid $142 plus shipping.

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