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tonyzoc

tonyzoc

Member Since 26 Aug 2020
Offline Last Active Today, 01:04 PM
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#77592 Got an F4e

Posted by tonyzoc on 17 February 2022 - 06:10 PM

The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

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#75387 Nikon FE & FM focus screens

Posted by tonyzoc on 29 September 2021 - 11:44 AM

I've got an FE and I have an FM coming later in the week. The FE has the Type E screen, which is pretty nice but I'd like a K for it. I guess the FM came out before the FE. I was surprised that it didn't have easily changeable screens...like my Pentax MX. It's not a bid deal as I rarely ever change a screen once I got the one I like. I do like the FE quite a bit and will probably add a FE2 in the future. I've never shot with an FM, but I have used several Pentax MX over the years and I'm ok with the diode metering. One think I like about the MX is the shutter speeds and metering are right next to each other...I'm curious to see how I will like the FM with shutter speed on the left and metering on the right. When I bought my first MX back in 1980 I really wanted the FM, but it was $70 more and in those days, I was still in school and money was tight. 40 years later I finally got my FM [emoji3]

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#71322 Auto winder AW-1 service tips

Posted by tonyzoc on 26 December 2020 - 04:12 PM

I've recented picked up a Nikkormat ELw and a Nikon EL2 both with the AW-1 auto winder. Both auto winders needed to motor gear replaced. You can find them on eBay sold by Sover Wong or you can buy direct from him. I started repairing the AW-1 with full disassembly, but after a couple of repairs I could the best way to tackle this is as follows...
Heat up the top leatherette cover with a heat gun or hair drier...get it hot and peel off the cover.
Remove the 2 screws holding a collar at the drive hole
Remove the metal plate...I think about 7 screws all exactly the same
With that cover off you can see the nylon gear. Check it with a magnifier for a thin crack.
Remove the gear with needle nose or forceps
Heat up the replacement gear (assuming it's brass) and with tweezers position it and tap it down. I used a screw driver with a small socket head and a hammer. Light taps and it will slide down into position with the motor shaft flush to the top of the gear
That's it...reassemble and test before gluing the leatherette back in place
If it still doesn't work then the gears might have seized up requiring a full disassembly and clean and lube.
I've had one gear replacement go smoothly as above, and a second drive had to be disassembled and cleaned and lubed.

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#70728 Nikkormat SLRs

Posted by tonyzoc on 11 November 2020 - 07:42 PM

I have a Nikkormat FTn. It's a great companion to my Nikon Photomic FTn.

A little late to this but... I'm also late to Nikon collecting but in a short time I now have a F2A and a F2 Photomic. I recently added a Nikkormat FTN and a ELW. The ELWs meter responds to light but is way off, so the A and metered manual is useless. So I have an EL2 with an AW-1 winder coming any day now. The AW-1 is not functional but it sounds like the motor gear needs replacing, which I can get cheap enough. I've also added lenses...AIs 50/1.8, 55/3.5 micro, 35/2, 105/2.5, 43-86/3.5 and 80-200/4.5. In Non-AI I have 2 50/1.4s. I like the Nikkormat FTN very much. It's a black body in decent condition and I'm putting my first roll through it now. I mostly collect Pentax and Exakta. The FTN is comparable to a Spotmatic SP but the Nikkormat has mirror lockup and open aperture metering. One think I really like is how cheap really good AI/Non-AI Nikkor lenses are. Comparable Pentax lenses run 2-3 time more, probably because they are not as many out there. I guess I'm hooked on Nikon's now...I've been watching FM, FM2 and F3 auctions lately...

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#70484 FA problem

Posted by tonyzoc on 28 October 2020 - 02:34 PM

The first thing I'd try to do is see if you can pull the mirror down. Use a wooded toothpick and don't force it. I've seen on some cameras where the mirror foam gets sticky as it degrades and keeps the mirror stuck in the up position preventing the completion of the cycle. If the mirror comes down, check if the foam is sticky and if so, you'll need to replace it. If it does come down, try to then cock the shutter. If it stuck up and doesn't come down with a light pull, then something more severe is wrong.

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Thank You for your reply.
Just got back in town and check the mirror and it is already down. Seems to move freely. I did notice that the meter does not seem to be working and the batteries are new and no corrosion at all anywhere. Any other ideas ??

If it's not firing at M250 and the mirror is moving freely then there is a problem that's more than electronic. The FA is a nice camera and it's holding value pretty well. If it's in good cosmetic condition I'd sent it out for repair assuming you can find someone who can fix it.

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