tonyzoc

The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

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just a follow up to this... I had the F4s for a week, on my 2nd roll, and sitting at my desk it slips out of my hand while changing lenses and hits the hardwood floor just near the right strap lug. The impact put a small crack in the right hand top plate and knocked the frame counter window out of place. As a result of this the frame counter dial doesn't turn, and when I put a fresh roll on it never moves off of -2... so every time I hit the shutter button it winds 3 frames, thinking it's not loaded .. though the rewind knob is spinning. I took it to a local shop for an estimate and they told me it would be a minimum $250 if repairable and I should just keep it for parts since everything else is still working. Well since I have the DP-20 and MB-20 and 21 I went and got another body (258xxxx) for $100 shipped. Then I watched a Japanese disassembly where he removed that top plate, and figured what do I have to loose. So I was able to get the top plate off and found the counter frame bent and clear window popped out. I straighten the counter frame part and reglued the window, reassembled and everything work great. Saved myself $250, but now I have 2 F4. So I spent another $100 and got a WL finder. Crazy huh.

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The main reason to look for a post-1979 version is if you want to run it with the MD-11 or MD-12 motor drive.
When either a Motor Drive MD-11 or MD-12 was attached, the switch was supposed to be turned after attaching the motor drive but BEFORE turning on the MD-11 or MD-12. Rotating this concentric switch to the ON position after the motor drive had been mounted and then turned ON would immediately lock up the camera, rendering the camera inoperable, and it was then necessary to remove the MD-11 or MD-12 from the camera base, and to touch the motor drive's exposed contacts with a penny to clear the jam caused by the out-of-synch camera/motor combination.

The last version of the shutter release lock, integrated in the film-advance lever, is the same way it works on the FM-2, FE-2 and the FA, making it easier to switch between cameras.

Also, the easier access to the focus screen could be a big benefit ... especially if, like me, you have an FM with a dirty viewfinder. At some point I'm going to send my FM out for a cla with a FE screen with the tab ground off for them to switch out.

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I had a new FM back in the late 1970s, until it was stolen in a house burglary in the early 80s. I still miss that camera and have been looking to get another one. A lot of ads I see include the camera's serial number. I have read that the first digit of the number indicates the market in which it was originally sold, 2 for Japan, 3 for USA etc. Is there any difference? I know that sometimes it can matter as far as warranty coverage but with a 40 year old camera, that won't matter. Are there any reasons now where it could?

thanks.

-Jim

this video might be of some help...
https://youtu.be/OLsKNrdgoNs

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Well that makes sense. My F with the nameplate blocking the FTn finder is a 682xxxx and it's only the nameplate preventing mounting of the FTn head. I'd prefer to keep that nameplate anyway...I have a plain prism for it, which I like. Plus I have a late F 739xxxx with a FTn finder. The FTn had a jumpy needle and I took it apart and cleaned the brushes and circular variable resistor and it works perfect now.

Also...I've noticed the variants in the early non-AI lenses. I don't have any Pat. Pend. version but I have a most with the early style aperture ring. I have the 28, 35, 50/1.4, 105, 135 and 200 pictured. I bought a 24mm I should be getting this week. (The 35 and 50 are the later aperture ring with raised ridges.)

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The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk