Jerry_

From a technical point I would suspect this to be an electric switch, rather then causing a mechanical action.

As Lupe already suggested, try if you can soften the (likely) dirt that might have settled between the switch and the bodyframe to free it.

If the LCD screen on the camera does not show information or if it is going off when the lens is mounted, it is very often caused by the battery not providing enough current, as Lupe suggested, for the camera to work.

Some of the reasons (though the list is not exhaustive) can be
- an old or poorly charged battery
- (dirty/oxydized) electric contacts on the battery or the camera
- a problem (f.i. Short circuit) on the lens

What you can check is therefore:
- fully load the battery
- see the electric contacts on the battery and in the battery tray of the camera. Clean them with a quality deoxydizing product for electric contacts.
- check with a different battery. The D610 uses EN-EL15 batteries and supports all currently available versions
- check for lens electric contacts on both ends (lens and camera); Clean them with a quality deoxydizing product for electric contacts.
- if you have a second lens available, check with using a different lens

Based on the findings it may solve the problem or post in the good direction for further investigating the issue.

The default exposure metering mode is matrix (ie an average of how bright/dark your picture is), which causes the subject (bird) to be not correctly exposed
The camera also allows for center-weighted metering, though not all metering options are always available depending on other parameters choosen

You will find the user manual here:

https://download.nik...0RM_(En)03.pdf

Have a look at page 146 of the document (marked as 64)

As Pete and Ron mentioned

Nikon has different download pages for the Z7 and the Z7II.
While your link points to the Z7 download page, you might want to look here:

https://downloadcent.../558/Z_7II.html

Hi,

If it is a MS518SE cell battery (based on the picture I also read S518SE) then it won’t recharge, no matter if you use a direct main or a battery to power the camera.
At 10 years of use, it has well lasted and is now empty.


Looking at the link to the ifixit site, you will have to go to mid-step 6 for replacement of the battery. The good thing is that up to that step there seems to be no (un)soldering, just unplugging some cables. As they however point there will be a number of Philips screws to remove (and later re-insert), which should not be to complicate as they are likely mostly the same size - just pay attention to loose none.

As you have two cameras, maybe you could document and post the operation?