TFitz

If you go here, you will find a link for the reference manual as a pdf at the bottom of the page. I am not sure how printable it is, but it is at least usable off-line.

Ed, good recommendation to only buy lenses based on real needs.

This reminds me of an exercise that I did about a year ago, using querys in Lightroom and then entering the data in Excel, ending up with the following graph:



Liking to capture landscapes, I found most of my focal lengths in the lower end.

Even so the querys were using ranges of 10mm from 0-200 and ranges of 100mm above, the main peaks were more aligned to current lenses focal lengths (incl. approx min/max of zoom lenses), with almost no difference between DX and FX sensors (even so they offer different fields of view).

Possibly I give the software you mention a try.

Can you show us the graphs it did produce for you?

It's interesting how people go about selecting lenses based on recommendations, either from the classical interpretation of what has been used by famous photographers or personal anecdotes. However, while most lens recommendations fit the average photographer, there are some of us that don't have the standard focal view point. An example is the selection of the "normal lens". Some choose the standard 50mm or 35mm. Some prefer 24mm, 28mm or even 85 mm. There is no right or wrong, but it can be costly if you buy based on recommendation only.

 

So here is my tip for the day. Choose the lens that fits your view point based on actual use. We all have some sort of kit zoom lens or 2 that cover the typical wide to telephoto lens range, especially as beginners when they buy a DSLR with a standard 2 kit lens bundle. Before considering another lens purchase, such as prime lenses, spend a month or 2 or even a year taking photos with your zoom kit lenses. Then download the freeware program, Exposure Plot 1.16 at www.Vandel.nl and analyze your results.

 

This program can be directed to search all your photo files and plot on a graph visually, what focal lengths you have been using. By analyzing your data, you can determine your favorite focal length(s). The program can also tell you graphically what aperture, shutter speed, and ISO you've been using.

 

By no means am I suggesting you buy another lens just using this data, but it does help you make a better informed decision.

 

Ed.

Memory cards have a small glider on the left side, allowing to lock (= write protect) them.

If the problem would have occured with a single card I would have suggested to check that this glider hasn't moved to the lock position.

As you mention this problem occurs with any memory card. This suggests that the sensor in the camera that is checking the position of this glider is either blocked by dirt or broken.

I would suggest to inspect your memory slot.

While doing so, you can also check whether all electric pins that you can see in the slot are still straight and well aligned, as this could also be the cause of the problem.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this - or if it doesn't help - I'd recommend to bring the camera to your local camera dealer for further advice or help.

When deciding between the DX 35 and the 50/1.8 G, try the two focal lengths yourself with the 18-55. Lock the zoom at either 35 or 50 with a piece of vinyl tape and shoot some portraits. Whichever length worked better for you is the one to get. Nobody else can tell you how tight you want to compose or how close to the subject you are comfortable with. One lens I really liked for head-and shoulder portraits on a DX body is the Voigtländer 58/1.4. It is manual focus, but as it is chipped it will meter on your D3300.

 

AF-S lenses work fully on the D3xxx and D5xxx bodies.

I have learned that using doing searches on Youtube for your camera is very helpful. 

I have used the OpTech rain sleeves to keep a camera relatively dry in the rain.  They work pretty well and are cheap, so I keep an assortment of the three sizes on hand.  I haven't tried the neoprene covers, or anything else for dust.  I've been in the dust in East Africa and Egypt, including a pretty good dust storm in Egypt, but have never had an issue.  I just used a small brush to keep the dust cleaned off the best I could and cleaned them up well each night.

Those neoprene coats do protect the lenses, and they can be worth the cost and hassle on a long tele as the camouflage works and the long lenses can get some dings simply because of their size. What lenses do you want to protect? On something like a 70-300 consumer zoom, you won't get the benefits as the inner barrel won't be either protected or camouflaged. If you like the look, by all means go ahead but I wouldn't use one except for on long (over 300 mm) tele primes.

 

What I do use to protect both lens and camera when needed, is a cheap op/tech rain sleeve. https://www.bhphotov..._of.html?sts=pi

EV 0 is a 1 second exposure at f/1.0. The -4 EV is actually -4 EV₁₀₀ or -4 EV at ISO 100, the marketing people just have oversimplified a bit.

Exposure compensation is also expressed in EV, which can be confusing.

https://en.wikipedia.../Exposure_value

Lets get this thread started! I love this lens, for the price its a excellent performer. It has clean and very sharp flat field of focus, great stopped down. It shines at f/4 and more. At 1.8 the bokeh can get a little nervous and it has no real character or personality, so its not for the bokeh lovers. Its not bad though and again, stopped down pass f/2,2 it manages quite well. I use it mainly on a D600 as my standard lens. 

 

heres some BW's, most of them wide open

click to enlarge and read exif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lympstone,my neighbouring village.

Attached a few images from a recent trip to the Orkney Islands. In particular, these were all taken on the Main Island - there are around 70 islands that make up the archipeligo!

 

Taken on the west coast at the Kitchener memorial, looking south towards the Island of Hoy.

 

 

Taken on the rocky beach close to the Kitchener Memorial.

 

 

Taken at the Bay of Skaill, where the neolithic village of Skara Brae can be found, just out of shot at the left hand side of the image

 

 

Taken at the Bay of Skaill again, looking out into the North Atlantic ocean - next stop form here is likely to be Newfoundland!

 

 

Another taken at the Bay of Skaill - some of that rough weather coming in from Newfoundland! This image is taken looking 90 degrees left of the previous image above (but on a different day).

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.flickr.c...tos/7383374@N02

 

 

A location I have wanted to visit for some time however, I was not there at the right time. It is probably best shot early morning with a good sunrise.

This shot was taken on the drive home from a holiday break.

Pentax K-3 + HD DA 15mm F4

 

My daughter doing what little girls do best at the beach -- rush those seagulls!  LOL