TBonz

What aperture did you set with the 35 at the wedding shower?

When the dynamic range in the scene gets too large for an oldish camera, shoot in raw, protect the highlights and let the shadows fall where they do. Correct the shadow exposure in post.

If you absolutely have to shoot in jpg, use a picture control with a large DR, such as portrait or landscape. Activate Advanced Dynamic Lighting, but set it to a reasonable value.

Peter, won't the new Nikon Z cameras take just about any previous F mount lens when used with the FTZ adapter? If so, this seems to me like the way to go.

 

--Ron

Not knowing what ED lenses our new friend has makes a D750 a safer recommendation. When the D70s was current, most ED lenses were still screw-drive…

…in the lens database would be good. I have been thinking about shooting some real-life comparisons between the 35/1.8 S, 40/2 and 50/1.8 S and having them in the database would make this easier.

I have added the category here:

https://www.nikonfor...z-mount-lenses/

You should also be able to add lenses directly there.  Please let me know if any changes/additions to the fields are needed.

ISO: 200
Aperture: 4.5
Shutter: 1/2000
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

Somewhere around 55 years old and still a daily driver.

if had the cash would get that Z9 for that price on refurb. also being able to get on to pitch Z9 make how in the hell i am getting these shots. found out how to fix issue to get way better shots at -1 exposure setting on camera to get some great photo. some are one and done other could leave but want the photo's to pop. would like to get Zf but i do mainly sports action photography. so not will not work unless want portraits camera only.

i want full review of it and people of this site want one too. 

I confess I was sorely tempted. Nikon factory refurbished cameras come with a warranty and, I understand they are indistinguishable from new cameras. But these days I barely use what I have now, although I have been doing a bit more since I got my new TTL Ringlight.

I also confess to being a bit jealous of Peter and his "on the way" ZF. I've done some research and it looks like a great little camera. I can't wait to read his impressions and see the photos he produces with it. Of course, for sports, your Z9 is a better option... especially with the latest firmware. But my days of chasing cars (and other sports) are long over.

--Ron

Unfortunately, that particular lens is not compatible with your D7000. It's only somewhat compatible with the D7100 and D7200. Only the D7500 features full compatibility with that lens. If possible, you should return it and instead purchase the AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED. That lens, which is no longer being made, but may still be available either used or new, works perfectly with the D7000.

--Ron

With these types of problems, I always start by checking the stop-down linkage. 

Here is an old thread where I tried to illustrate what to look for. https://www.nikonfor...e-intermittent/ Depending on what part is damaged, and how badly, the symptom can be the aperture either not stopping down or not opening after an exposure.

The latest version (AF-P full frame) is by far the sharpest. It's even sharp at the 300mm setting. All previous versions are soft at the long end.

Sharpest, yes. It doesn't work on a D7000, though.

RE: Street Photography with full frame or DX DSLRs.

Wide angle lenses, provided they are compact enough.... I'm thinking of manual focus primes for the most part... can allow you to do some unobtrusive street photography because you don't need to point your camera right at a person to include them in the frame. Yes, this is a bit dishonest, as you are photographing someone without their explicit permission, but sometimes it's the only way to get the shot. If you're in a public place (excepting some places like Spain, etc.) you should have no expectation of privacy in any case. Unfortunately, not everyone understands this concept... including some law enforcement officers.

Most wide angle zooms are way too big to be unobtrusive. However, UWA's and MWA's with (and this is important) internal focus and focal length adjustments can sometimes work nearly as well as smallish primes. Leave the lens hood off though. Sometimes those big tulips or dog dishes scare people more than the actual camera and lens. 

As always, practice makes perfect. If you spend too much time fumbling with your controls, then street photography is not your bag. Take up macro or landscape...  something less demanding.

Having said all that, I still believe a small rangefinder is, and always will be, the best street photography camera. Measure the light, zone focus, shoot ... then act naturally. (with apologies to Ringo Starr).

--Ron

About the different laws in different countries…

Here is a good source to use as a starting point for research on what the rules are in different locations. 
https://commons.m.wi...nt_requirements

As it is a wiki, don’t take it as the gospel truth, check with other sources before you start doing street photography.

Lupe, a D3 or D4 can be an excellent street camera just like a gripped D700 as long as it is an extension of you and a fumble-free zone. It is easier to be a fly on the wall using old manual focus lenses than most screw-drive lenses as the AF transmission noise can dras attention… the AF-S lenses with their larger front elements can draw attention all on their own, without making any noise.

 

If you'll never enlarge an image that will require 45mb, and you only use jpeg, and you are wanting a 70-200mm, and you have DX lenses, for what reason are you wanting to move to FX?  As a retired professional wedding photographer, when I moved from film to digital, I seriously considered buying an FX camera, but after much research, I bought a DX, and to this date, there has been nothing that I've wanted that only the FX could do.

 

Question: The D850 is an amazing camera, but have you asked yourself what do you hope to gain by leaving your D5600 for the D850?

 

Reasons to stay with DX

1. Any used body you buy will be MUCH cheaper, lenses also. 

2. You can use your existing lenses.

3  Except for the D500, all DX cameras have built in flash, and for the one time you may need it, it is great to have - even to trigger an external flash.

4. Unless you are requiring very wide, the DX has 50% more length.  eg 200mm on an FX is the same as 300mm on a DX

 

If you wish to upgrade, seriously consider a D7200.  It has the advantage over the D7500 in having 2 SD card slots, and the advantage over the D500 in that it has 2 SD card slots rather than one SD and one XQD, as well as a built-in flash

 

The learning curve from the D5600 to the D7200 is so minimal, you'd think you are using the same camera

 

Don't be fooled by all the hype about mirrorless.  Sure they are the latest technology, but what do they offer, except being lighter, smaller and better video?

Your battery won't last anywhere near as that in a DSLR.

 

Yes, I am biased.  I have owned almost every Nikon DX body, and now have 2 D7200 bodies and it is the best camera I have ever owned, and after using a borrowed mirrorless, there was absolutely no advantage for me.

 

D7200 and D7500 are an improvement from D5XXX series, I agree and everybody too.

D2 Series for sure don't have flash like D500.

I have one D2x and I know.

I think that D1 series don't have it too, the flagships never had it.

Mirrorless is another debate, and I think that Michael don't want any at the moment.

D500 is the best DSLR DX, believe me it's true, is a fact. Surely a bit harder to use than D7xxx series.

D500 is more expensive is from PRO series than all High-end FX series like D600, D610, D700 and D750.

So DX were not cheaper, don't confuse FX and DX with Nikon different series, PRO series and flagships always are more expensive than the rest.

 

 

If you'll never enlarge an image that will require 45mb, and you only use jpeg, and you are wanting a 70-200mm, and you have DX lenses, for what reason are you wanting to move to FX?  As a retired professional wedding photographer, when I moved from film to digital, I seriously considered buying an FX camera, but after much research, I bought a DX, and to this date, there has been nothing that I've wanted that only the FX could do.

 

Question: The D850 is an amazing camera, but have you asked yourself what do you hope to gain by leaving your D5600 for the D850?

 

Reasons to stay with DX

1. Any used body you buy will be MUCH cheaper, lenses also. 

2. You can use your existing lenses.

3  Except for the D500, all DX cameras have built in flash, and for the one time you may need it, it is great to have - even to trigger an external flash.

4. Unless you are requiring very wide, the DX has 50% more length.  eg 200mm on an FX is the same as 300mm on a DX

 

If you wish to upgrade, seriously consider a D7200.  It has the advantage over the D7500 in having 2 SD card slots, and the advantage over the D500 in that it has 2 SD card slots rather than one SD and one XQD, as well as a built-in flash

 

The learning curve from the D5600 to the D7200 is so minimal, you'd think you are using the same camera

 

Don't be fooled by all the hype about mirrorless.  Sure they are the latest technology, but what do they offer, except being lighter, smaller and better video?

Your battery won't last anywhere near as that in a DSLR.

 

Yes, I am biased.  I have owned almost every Nikon DX body, and now have 2 D7200 bodies and it is the best camera I have ever owned, and after using a borrowed mirrorless, there was absolutely no advantage for me.

 

There are two situations where a DX camera can’t do the same work.

One is using primes as whatever focal length ladder you decide on there will be holes in it at inconvenient places.

The other is shallow depth of field. For example, to more or less replace a 35/2 on FX, you would need a 24/1.2 because of the 1.5X crop factor. As the sensor area is a bit less than half that of the FX sensor, the difference in magnification means that you need to open up a bit more than one stop to get the same DOF. Another classic example is that to get a similar look to the 85/1.4, you would need a 58/0.92.

These are special cases, but very real problems with DX for some of us.