Merco_61

What swayed me to the Sigma was that I like to support long lenses at, or even under the lens hood. The Sports supports being used as a push-pull zoom according to the manual, the others don't. Holding a heavy, long lens like that makes panning at ridiculous shutter speeds easier. This is a very specific usage and I know that the Nikon definitely is in the top three in this class of lenses.

I really like my Sigma Sports after I finetuned it using the dock. Here are some samples. I tried all the affordable supertele zooms before I decided on the Sigma. To me, it handles much better than the Nikon.

The advantage of finetuning using the dock instead of just performing an AF fine tune in the camera is that the correction curves are produced using 4 distances and 3 focal lengths. These more affordable lenses tend to vary much more in what correction is needed at different settings than your pro zooms.

PES_2019-01-13_13-24-03_22mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

Model: NIKON D7200
Lens (mm): 22 (Tamron 17-50/2.8)
ISO: 1000
Aperture: 4.5
Shutter: 1/30

Picture Control: [VI]Vivid
 

It is finished, more or less intonated and fully playable.

PES_2019-01-13_13-24-03_22mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-24-24_24mm_A by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-24-34_50mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-24-56_24mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-25-06_32mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-25-40_40mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-13_13-26-07_48mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

The D5600 NEFs are supported from LR 6.8 onwards. I don't remember what release was on the last install discs made, but an update is the full installer so you won't save any time or data on your limited internet plan over downloading something like Affinity Photo if you need to update LR anyway.

What version of MacOS are you on? I am not sure if Image Capture handles the Z6, but the latest release probably does.

Nikon did away with the mass storage mode 10 years ago, so your camera won't show up in Finder.

Have you tried downloading and installing Nikon's own software?

I often use either a grey card or a colour chart (ColorChecker) to profile the light. I still let the camera use Auto WB, but shoot the card now and then as the light changes. I then correct the WB in batches in post. correcting WB in-camera works, but isn't necessary if you shoot raw and have a raw converter or even a pixel editor that doesn't suck.

Remember that the Adobe camera raw module in older versions of PS, LR and PSE don't support your D5600. You can get around this by converting your raw files to DNG using either Adobe's or a third-party DNG converter but it is a hassle.

The only current PP application that still comes on cd is Corel Paintshop Pro AFAIK. 

The neck is finished.

PES_2019-01-09_06-40-52_26mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-09_06-42-13_48mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-09_06-41-15_40mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

PES_2019-01-09_06-41-55_38mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

A group photo of the parts that will go into the guitar as soon as the Tru-Oil has hardened enough for me to buff the finish.

PES_2019-01-06_14-04-49_29mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

Gotoh tuning machines and a Shaller string bar will go on the head.

Seymour Duncan pickups, Sentient in the neck position and Pegasus at the bridge.

A licensed Floyd Rose to start with, it will probably be replaced with a Shaller Lockmeister sooner or later.

A 5-way super switch, logarithmic pot for volume and linear pot for tone.

A Switchcraft output jack.

I thought I would take a photo of most of the parts that will go into my Axis-inspired guitar.

PES_2019-01-06_14-04-49_29mm_ by merco_61, on Flickr

Model: NIKON D7200
Lens (mm): 29 (Tamron 17-50/2.8)
ISO: 2500
Aperture: 4.5
Shutter: 1/50

Picture Control: [VI]Vivid, but with slightly reduced saturation

If the D5600 works anything like older Nikons, the Playback display options menu lets you select what options are available for playback. You then scroll through the different screens by pressing the multiselector up or down while in playback mode.

This looks like a combination of chromatic aberration and overly enthusiastic sharpening or contrast. See what happens if you start your post work with a CA removal tool. In hard light, you can reduce the CA by stopping down a bit.

As this was shot in jpg, what Picture Control did you use? Some of them apply far too much sharpening and contrast as standard.

Fast focus and sharp images are not the design targets when designing any superzoom except possibly the Canon L 35-350 and 28-300. Convenience and portability are what they are all about.

I would much rather split the range in two lenses to get less compromise in the design. A 16-80/2.8-4 in combination with a 70-200/4 are probably the best semi-affordable solution for portability, fast AF and crisp results on DX.

Macro on the third-party zooms only means that it focuses a bit closer than non-macro designated lenses. When used up close, they usually have a mushy rendering where lines that should be nice and contrasty just lack definition. A real macro lens OTOH, shows amazing detail and can come even closer.