Merco_61

Really? thanks for that, Peter.

 

…obscure meaning???

It is quite a bit down in most acronym lists I have seen.

The only AF-S 70-300 is the VR one that Adam linked to. It was made between August 2006 and July 2017. It is a very good lens that holds up well on modern sensors even though 12 MP DX was high resolution when it was introduced. It is FX

Did you try doing a manual white balance? A gray card is the photographer's best friend in difficult light.

IME, Canon bodies don't work any better or worse than Nikons in difficult light, but the Auto WB can be quite pleasant in some situations, just like a Nikon.

If you shoot stills only, profiling the light with a ColorChecker and applying that profile in post is easy and gives even more precise results. There are ways to use a ColorChecker for video as well but I don't know how easy it is as I don't shoot video.

As your main interest is street, why go for a DSLR at all? Why not use a µ4/3 body with the Olympus 17/1.8 as a starter lens?

Nikon's AF 50-s aren't that exciting, with the exception of the 58/1.4. That lens is heavy, conspicuous and expensive, though. I often use an FX body with the 35/1.8 for street, but it would be easier to not stand out with a Pen F or OM-D and three lenses, preferably the Zuiko 12/2, Zuiko 17/1.8 and the Summilux 25/1.4.

THe old AF-S 70-300 VR is still a very good lens if you can find one. The D5300 supports the AF-P lenses if you have the latest firmware installed. The FX version of the AF-P VR is much better optically than the DX version.

Are you sure you need the full 300 mm? The 70-200/4 is far superior compared to the 70-300 lenses.

Are you sure that the flash you see from the pop-up is a flash and not just the control beam? The master flash will go off at least once before the shutter opens just to send the command for the slave to flash for the metering. If you are shooting up close, the residual light from the control flash can become visible as the flash tube hasn't gone out yet when the shutter opens. This is what the SG-31R accessory is for. It blocks the visible light from the pop-up.

It is interesting that he doesn't mention it earlier where he writes about the AF-P lenses. It is a strange one as it is neither compatible nor incompatible.

In this passage, it isn't mentioned at all...

I didn't screengrab the full passage, but what is there should be enough to identify where I mean.

Tony, could you post a link to where he says that? Nikon themselves say that they will focus, but there are other limitations.

Model: NIKON D750
Lens (mm): 150 (Sigma 150-600 Sports)
ISO: 250
Aperture: 5.6
Shutter: 1/4000
 

What version of the 17-70 is it? there has been three versions over the years. The first didn't have OS, the second didn't have the exotic glass elements of the third and shows lots of CA because of that. The third and current version is the Contemporary and has a later version of the stabilization algorithms and both SLD and FLD glass and, I think, three aspherical elements. The Contemporary is one of the better normal zooms, and you will have to go to something at least twice as expensive to get better performance. The lens is diffraction limited earlier than many others and can exhibit softness from diffraction as early as f/8 in some situations.

If your sample needs AF adjustment, renting or buying the Sigma Dock gives you a much better chance than using the fine adjust in the camera as you can correct the focus curves for more than one focal length and distance.

A good sample of the Nikon 16-80/2.8-4 is only slightly better optically, all the Nikon 18-xxx normal zooms are inferior to a well-sorted Sigma 17-70C and the 16-85 is about equal. The 17-55/2.8 is a heavy beast without VR, but it is definitely pro caliber.

Some examples with EXIF would help us in giving advice.

I very much prefer solid locks on anything that can move. I don't find them difficult to operate one-handed, but that might be because i am used to them. That said, I like a mode button combined with the control wheel even better.

Was hoping that the D760 might have been mentioned at CP+ Show, this week, seems like it isn’t going to be. Although I’ve pretty much decided that my next one will be a D850, I’d still be interested in a D760 if the spec/price were right.

Well, it’ll take me another few weeks to get the cash together, so we might still get an announcement before I put my money down.

Nikon seem to avoid releasing new expensive things at the trade shows nowadays. I think they prefer not to have their news drown among all the other press releases.

All my cameras use the EC as an offset for bracketing. To check if yours does, shoot a series and take a look at the EXIF to see the values.

Which one, there are 3 versions.

1. AF-S
2. AF-P DX
3. AF-P FX

Which version of the Tamron is it that works better? There are lots of those as well.

The way you put it in your first post, you were talking about one of the three 300 mm VR primes, not any of the 70-300 versions at all.