Jump to content

Welcome to NikonForums.com
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!

Merco_61

Merco_61

Member Since 15 Oct 2013
Offline Last Active Today, 04:04 PM
*****

In Topic: Your best photo of the week ending April 21 2024

Today, 01:38 PM

gallery_1251_915_116092.jpg

Model: NIKON Z f
AF-S Nikkor 14-24/2.8 G ED on FTZ
Lens (mm): 14
ISO: 100
Aperture: 8
Shutter: 1/125
Exp. Comp.: -2.3


In Topic: A non-portrait portrait lens exercise. (Permanent post)

Today, 09:55 AM

More lens-abuse today.

gallery_1251_898_862306.jpg

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF Nikkor 105/2 D DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2

DC: full F
Shutter: 1/2500
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

 

I was after a soft-effect using only the DC feature of the lens, not using a soft-filter.

This setting is far outside the recommended DC setting to at or a smaller number than the aperture value.


In Topic: Mirrorless or DSLR

Yesterday, 11:34 AM

Your upgrade path will depend on what lenses you have, and whether you want to continue using them.

 

Both systems have their strengths and weaknesses.

 

Nikon’s interchangeable lens cameras can be sorted into 6 families…

  • DX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR
  • Mainstream FX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR
  • High resolution FX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR

Then, there are the mirrorless retro bodies…


In Topic: Hello from Tasmania

Yesterday, 08:37 AM

Welcome to the forums!


In Topic: Basic settings for auroras

Yesterday, 08:36 AM

A good starting point when photographing the aurora is: aperture f/2.8, ISO 1600 (increase if it’s very dark) and 15 seconds shutter speed. Keep in mind that if the aurora is very active (i.e. dances quickly), you need to shorten the shutter speed.

Most of the really spectacular aurora photos are made with fast wide-angles to let as much light as possible in and show some foreground, setting a context, sometimes even using lightpainting on the foreground.

Get away from civilization, as houses mean light pollution…

A sturdy tripod is essential.
 

Neither of your lenses are ideal, but the 50 is less unsuitable than the superzoom. A too narrow field of view means having to composite a less conventional aurora photo. A too slowlens, ov the other hand, moves the starting point from f/2.8, 15 s and ISO 1600, perfectly doable with an old D5100, to either f/5.6, 30 s and ISO 1600 or f/5.6, 15 s and ISO 3200. A longer exposure will give too much movement of the aurora, losing definition. Raising the ISO will produce more digital noise