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Vibration Control or Reduction


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30 replies to this topic

#21
Steve M

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BTW... If you already have a high quality circular polarizer, you can pick up a high quality linear polarizer really cheap (because no one wants one in this digital age), and stack them to make a variable ND filter.


I will have to check into that. I did purchase the one you listed in your post.

You mentioned you like ISO 400. Is that still at 400?


Yes I do like ISO 400 but following Peter’s and Scott’s instruction I was to use 100.

Shutter Mode 1/60, ISO 100. The camera grabbed F20 for aperture.

#22
Steve M

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Ok my first real try today.   Got the ND filter.  I will take any suggestions or comments.  

 

First picture.

Nikon D7200, lens 18-55mm

SS 1/60    Aperture 5  ISO 100.  ND filter set pretty dark.

 

This one didn't turn out as I planned as I saw the train coming down the tracks a car moved in front of me.   I was trying to find the best location after the car moved in.  I was then too close.

 

File Feb 10, 4 20 54 PM.png

 

 

This second picture I thought turned out pretty good.  However I was looking for more movement in the background compared to the first picture so I slowed my Shutter to 1/40 and darkened my filter a bit.  I also got the distance back I wanted from the first picture.

 

Second picture.

Nikon D7200, lens 18-55mm

SS 1/60    Aperture 5  ISO 100.  ND filter set pretty dark.

 

File Feb 10, 4 18 40 PM.png

 

 

 



#23
ScottinPollock

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For me, I'd practice with even slower than 1/60 for this speed. And consider f8-11 for better DOF. Remember you'll get plenty of background blur due to the motion of the pan, so no need to think about a lower aperture.

The rear of the train is disturbingly out of focus and it is hard to tell why with this low rez upload. I am not sure where diffraction kicks in with this lens so try testing with some printed material on a wall to see how far you can close it down without affecting sharpness and try that aperture next time.

BTW, what ND filter did you end up with? Colors really pop with it!



#24
Steve M

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For me, I'd practice with even slower than 1/60 for this speed. And consider f8-11 for better DOF. Remember you'll get plenty of background blur due to the motion of the pan, so need to think about a lower aperture.

The rear of the train is disturbingly out of focus and it is hard to tell why with this low rez upload. I am not sure where diffraction kicks in with this lens so try testing with some printed material on a wall to see how far you can close it down without affecting sharpness and try that aperture next time.

BTW, what ND filter did you end up with? Colors really pop with it!.


. Thank you for your advice. I got the one you recommended. nd filter for sale | eBay

#25
Steve M

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One other thing. I had other photos but even with a picture of just one engine that back of the Engine is blurry.
Could it be how I had my focus points set up? I was using AFC 3D set to the front of the train!

Just for reference this train was moving about 55 mph

#26
ScottinPollock

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. Thank you for your advice. I got the one you recommended. nd filter for sale | eBay

I don't recall a recommendation, and your link brings up a number of them. So which one did you get?

#27
Steve M

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I don't recall a recommendation, and your link brings up a number of them. So which one did you get?

Your post #13. I got the Zomei.

This might be a better link. https://www.ebay.com...a-0oLXAgwkMYAhw

#28
Steve M

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I don't recall a recommendation, and your link brings up a number of them. So which one did you get?


Oh I see now. You really didn’t recommend one but gave me a list. I guess I missed that and took the very first one. Sorry to have made confusing. My link above is corrected also.

#29
Steve M

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I don’t know why I get this blur in the back of the train. Today I got three trains and a bunch of railroad cars. All have a fairly crisp front but the back is blurry. Did not seem to make a difference if I Point to the front or mid section of the train standing centered of the train.

Tomorrow I am going to go out side and take a picture of my garage door from the tripod and see if I get a haze

SS 1/30
ISO 100
F 1/8

52F56382-944E-45AE-866C-AB6906744858.jpeg

#30
Steve M

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I did this one with my new prime lens. 35mm

SS 1/50
F8
ISO was Automatic at 500. In my other ones I had set the ISO. will make sure next time.
ND darkening filter

This one I knew was going to be tough. The train was coming from the left and there was buildings there so my panning was tough. I could not see the train even a full length before I started panning.

There is some distortion but not much. I am very happy that like the other pictures it was not crisp in front and blurry in back this one is is more even front to back.



0_C386845-9148-4_F15-_A1_E0-_FDEA9_D7220

#31
ScottinPollock

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I wanted to revisit this as I was doing some serious up-close motion freezing this last weekend and was a little frustrated initially. So I decided to dust off my (not often used, or all that extensive) trig skills to put together a tool (a spreadsheet) to calculate the actual motion blur I'd get based on distance, speed, and camera settings. More info and download links can be found at: Motion Blur Calculator
 
Enjoy, and comments welcome.
 
-SiP
 
P.S. I haven't seen Steve here in quite a while and can only presume the worst. Does anybody know his status?