7 replies to this topic

[fallout666]

what your take on this photo from my promaster 100-400 af lens at 1/200 f/6.7 390mm iso 390mm 1/200 f/6.7 on d5300 did i do anything wrong or came out right. when i got home i saw other pictures where look great on viewnx 2 

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[TBonz]

Not sure what you are asking...1/200 seems slow.  were you using a tripod or monopod?  What ISO?

[fallout666]

Was on monopod iso 10,000 did not know 1/200 was slow when went up or down by two turns to bright or to dark. Since leaning how to do full manual. Iso 10,000?f /6.7 1/200 was setting

[TBonz]

The issue is the combination of the lens and the event.  The lens is not designed for low-light shooting (f4.5-f6.7).  Most fields I am really pushing my 200-400 f4 to allow me to shoot sports under the lights.  You can probably get by like that but with those settings you will get movement on any type of action shot.  You also don't get the focus separation between subject and background because of the high aperture.  

 

The images above are OK.  I'd want the first a bit lighter in the shadows to see the face better - hard to tell but it kind of looks soft to me.  Might be the lighting or just a touch soft focus.  on the second, I would crop tighter.  

[fallout666]

i got this lens to make learn how to shoot in full manual not rely full auto or semi auto. plus i got it for only $50 for lens and $15 for uv lens filter. was great find. i was also shoot at lager format so 6000x4000 will start shooting at (M)  4,496 x 3,000. was just asking for help since do not own laptop and can not see flaws in till i get home and check pictures out. since can not tell what i doing wrong when small view screen makes every thing look great. what would set to F/ stop and and aperture. love fact manual only make me learn manual. and not do what my buddy does on sony still use full auto to get great pictures. what i learn that from this lens will take over to my other lens like my tamorn basic 70-300 and other prime lens and 12-24 ultra-wide angle lens. also did not know all flaws on this lens too. 

[TBonz]

You do not need any specific lens to shoot manual.  What you need to do first is understand the impact of aperture, shutter speed and ISO.  The three of those combine to create the correct exposure.  All are trade offs which you can use to your benefit.  The exact "same" image will look different if you shoot it with different combinations such as different shutter speeds.  The same goes for different apertures or different ISOs.  You can have many different combinations that will be "correctly exposed" but they will have differences based on how you select those three settings.  Your camera has a light meter that can tell you what the camera believes is a good exposure and you can look at the histogram after you have shot an image to check your exposure, then adjust from there to get what you want.  You don't need a laptop screen to look at the histogram and you should be able to tell if the exposure is correct (or at least close) by checking on the camera's screen...worst case you can zoom in to check smaller areas.  

[fallout666]

I seee that . But when ablity to use auto or semi auto. I am not learning to use camera at fullest ablity. I relay on camera to do all work. I will go back to it. Since get fluster when u can not get pictures to look in focus or lighting right. This forcing me to learn it and do manual. Instead of going to camera to get job done. If making me better photographer now.

[TBonz]

Go to a location and take photos in some sort of organized manner so that you see how the different pieces - aperture, shutter and ISO - change the image.  That is the first thing I would do.  See how the depth of field changes as the aperture changes.  See how movement is shown or frozen as the shutter speed changes.  See how the quality of an image changes as your ISO changes.  

 

Once you learn how each of these change your image, THEN try shooting things that might "fool" your light meter and change only one of the settings to get more and less exposure than your meter recommends - called bracketing.  You can then see how best to shoot those situations.  

 

As far as focus goes, I would just let autofocus do its thing when you do those steps above.  Once you have a good handle on exposure, then we can discuss situations where different autofocus options might be beneficial.