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Need advice on birds in flight shooting


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3 replies to this topic

#1
SummerShaddow

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So, it was recommended to me to use AP mode with auto ISO for birds in flight, especially as a beginner.  However, what i'm finding is that sometimes the ISO shoots up to 3200, and accompanied with far less than 1/1000 and even around 1/250 I end up with terrible images that are ridiculously blurry with WAY too much noise that even Lr can't fix.

 

Lens used:  AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-f.6 G IF-ED

 

I do have a Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED lens but can't use it until my shoulder is better (surgery a few months back and is still to weak to handle a 5lb lens).

 

I first used program mode with auto ISO when I first got the camera, and I was getting pretty good results for the most part.  But most of the time when using program mode the wings of birds were just too blurry.  I then tried manual mode with Auto ISO but found my knowledge and skill level are too lacking at this point to go manual.  So that's when someone suggested I use AP mode with auto ISO, and I'm finding that the settings are often way off from what I actually need for the given situation.

 

Any suggestions and/or advice would be great as I'm struggling with figuring out what next steps to take.  I have watched a lot of youtube videos, read articles, and while those are helpful.. I'm just not finding the answers I need.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you can give.

 

 

 



#2
Merco_61

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Manual with AutoISO is still the best way to go as you want the aperture wide open and a shutter speed that freezes the action. Zoom the 70-300 to the 70 mm setting and choose f/4.5. Now you can forget about the aperture setting for this BIF session. Check that AutoISO is active. Select a shutter speed depending on how active the bird is. 1/250 works well for  a gliding bird while a furiously flapping one might need 1/2000 or faster to freeze the action. Does the D500 show ISO in the viewfinder when using M+AutoISO? If it does, keeping an eye on the ISO value is only a matter of habit.

 

Is the noise level because of high ISO or underexposure? If a photo is underexposed, you can save it in post but at the cost of the S/N ratio. You might get better results with spot metering when you follow something dark against a light background.



#3
mikew

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Another vote for manual with auto ISO, while your learning i would say dont worry about noise,cap your auto ISO about 3200,with your lens wide open and a min 1/1000th of a second shutter speed you most likely will not get that high any way.

Some of it depends on the camera you are using, i dont use BBF as that button is the easiest to get to for me so i use it for selecting focus point numbers, i shoot single center but have ( i think :rolleyes: ) 25 point programed in to that button,the idea is if single point gets too iffy i can change to multi point with out thinking.

Exposure compensation is important if you want to get close to correct exposure,dark birds maybe +2 stops light birds - 2 stops as a starting guide,you will need to refine that depending on the sky,bird or where the light is coming from.

I find beginners biggest problem is with having too slow a shutter speed,yes you can go fairly slow when you get into the swing and you know your birds,an example would be i got success with Swallows at 1/2000th but got more keepers at 1/4000th.

If you live anywhere that has Sea gulls they are great learning subjects,plus if the day is too dull or what ever to get keepers still go and practice its free once you have bought the gear.

 

Just to give you an idea this had +2 stops but still need sorting in Photoshop,so +3 may have been better.

 

DSC 4532


#4
mikew

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Dont think of manual with auto ISO as a manual mode,think of it as a auto mode that you have control over, of the three parts of the exposure triangle two are taken care of,your lens aperture is wide open,your shutter speed is set to what you want and the auto ISO sorts the exposure.

I notice in your other post you have the D500 so a bit of practice and you will be sorted,that camera was made for BIF.