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Auto ISO rant!


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28 replies to this topic

#21
Thumper

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I shoot mostly in manual mode, but my camera is old enough that I don' think auto ISO is even an option.

#22
TBonz

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I like the settings the way they are.  Yes, sometimes I do forget about AutoISO and I'm wondering why I get certain results and then I go fix it.  I could see a benefit to having the main dial with another option and having the Manual setting turn off all Auto settings, but I definitely like the ability to set AutoISO and have my other settings on manual.  I use those settings frequently when shooting sports - especially in changing light conditions.



#23
greenwing

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I like the settings the way they are.  Yes, sometimes I do forget about AutoISO and I'm wondering why I get certain results and then I go fix it.  I could see a benefit to having the main dial with another option and having the Manual setting turn off all Auto settings, but I definitely like the ability to set AutoISO and have my other settings on manual.  I use those settings frequently when shooting sports - especially in changing light conditions.

 

Your D600 can turn Auto ISO on & off by holding down the ISO button & rotating the front wheel, but I'm sure you know that. :) Why Nikon didn't do it that way all along beats me.

 

Chris



#24
TBonz

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Chris,

 

Yes, I know, but even without that, there was a way to turn it on or off...I understand the OP's suggestions that setting Manual on the dial should change everything to manual.  I'm just saying that however a manufacturer chooses to implement it, I like having a method where I can have manual shutter / aperture and still have AutoISO. 



#25
Tony892

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You, not Nikon, the camera, or anyone else, have chosen to use Auto ISO. You ignore the indications that it is on. If you don't want to trust the inbuilt metering, you should not have Auto ISO turned on. If you want to vary exposure from a metered value you can use exposure compensation in any mode, including manual, even with Auto ISO turned on.
 
You don't like it, but that's the way it works on your camera, and that's what you have to work with and understand.
 
Chris


Guess you have summarised the whole issue there Chris. I have found all the different comments in this thread very helpful in giving me an understanding of what is involved.

#26
Chrisf

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Really when debating iso not being fully manual. One has to consider until digital came along iso was stuck at say 100 until that roll was done. Now we have the luxury of changing it at will or having it determined by the camera depending on available light.

 

Me personally, I use it when I may or may not have time to adjust settings( a bit difficult to adjust iso on a d7000 with a long lens you are supporting) and dial in the appropriate ev values. While I use manual mode as well and agree that manual will give you  overall better control of your exposure.

 

I don't use aperture priority or shutter priority as those  do not give me complete control over what I want to control (aperture and shutter speed).

 

For those that those that will claim that you do not have control over your iso. They are correct,but only partially correct. Seeing as the option in Nikons cameras allows you to set a predetermined limit, and the ability to manipulate it by changing aperture or ss if don't like the current iso it's giving you. All in all I tend to think of this as Manual .75 since it is as close as you would get with out going full.


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#27
TBonz

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I had some issues this past weekend with AutoISO that I haven't had previously.  It was changing ISO quite frequently which I really haven't seen it do on fairly regularly lit situations.  It appears to jump for no reason although I am sure there is a reason behind it.  In a single 8 frame series of batter, the ISO went from 250 in the first frame to 320, 280, 250, 250, 250, 640, and 640 again.  No change in shutter, aperture, zoom or camera angle / direction.  Same situation later in the game in 9 frames the ISO was:  320, 250, 220, 220, 450, 560, 500, 500, 500.  I was using spot metering and I believe right now that the difference in ISO was triggered by subtle changes the meter reading changing as the batter shifted positions moving to swing or avoid the pitch.  The sun was low and they had red, black and white very close to the same area that may have been read by the spot meter.  In any case, it is fairly easy to correct in processing, but kind of a pain in the butt and obviously more time consuming.  I hopefully have 4 games next weekend so I might try some different things to see if I can narrow down the issue. 

 

Didn't have the issue today as I shot some pix around the house of the snow and ice and some indoor shots...



#28
Merco_61

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Sportz2pix, this definitely sound like a too narrow spot happening to be on targets with different reflectance or colours. If the D600 has the same kind of semi-spot centerweighted to only 8 mm that the D700 has, this might be worth a try. I usually use 8 or 12 mm center, combined with spot assigned to the fn-button to evaluate lighting levels. The problem with this setting can be that, unlike spot, the weighted area is always centered and does not follow the focus point.



#29
TBonz

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I'm sure that's what it is Merco...I reviewed the shots where it happened and I've at least convinced myself that is the issue.  More games on Saturday so I'm going to try some other things then.