33 replies to this topic

[ScottinPollock]

Nice lens; can understand that you don't want to part with it. Regarding the above photos (and these are just guesses as it's tough to accurately evaluate images uploaded directly to the forums), it looks like you missed focus on number 1. Tail feathers look sharper than neck/head area. Maybe a smaller aperture to increase depth of field.

Number 2 looks like not high enough shutter speed; focus looks good on juniper, but bird is not as sharp and is probably a bit of motion blur.

IF the above conclusions are correct, they point out that smaller aperture and higher shutter speed are more often than not major factors in the ratio of keepers versus trash candidates with this kind of work. Slowing things down with TC's significantly complicates that.

[Steve M]

Nice lens; can understand that you don't want to part with it. Regarding the above photos (and these are just guesses as it's tough to accurately evaluate images uploaded directly to the forums), it looks like you missed focus on number 1. Tail feathers look sharper than neck/head area. Maybe a smaller aperture to increase depth of field.
Number 2 looks like not high enough shutter speed; focus looks good on juniper, but bird is not as sharp and is probably a bit of motion blur.
IF the above conclusions are correct, they point out that smaller aperture and higher shutter speed are more often than not major factors in the ratio of keepers versus trash candidates with this kind of work. Slowing things down with TC's significantly complicates that.

Thank you for your opinions. I seriously do appreciate that. I will the information for both pictures tomorrow at work.

[Ron]

I thought I detected a bit of back focus in the second image. The tree/bush seems sharper than the bird. At least to me. However, I like the composition on the second image. Were these shot hand held?

 

--Ron

[Steve M]

I thought I detected a bit of back focus in the second image. The tree/bush seems sharper than the bird. At least to me. However, I like the composition on the second image. Were these shot hand held?

--Ron

Ron I remember that shot as I got thinking from the first comment on it. That Bird was in the juniper sitting and I was focusing on the Bird however about the time I clicked it had already took off. I am sure I was AF S - S

And yes free hand no tri pod

[Steve M]

Nice lens; can understand that you don't want to part with it. Regarding the above photos (and these are just guesses as it's tough to accurately evaluate images uploaded directly to the forums), it looks like you missed focus on number 1. Tail feathers look sharper than neck/head area. Maybe a smaller aperture to increase depth of field.

Number 2 looks like not high enough shutter speed; focus looks good on juniper, but bird is not as sharp and is probably a bit of motion blur.

IF the above conclusions are correct, they point out that smaller aperture and higher shutter speed are more often than not major factors in the ratio of keepers versus trash candidates with this kind of work. Slowing things down with TC's significantly complicates that.

 

 

Picture #1

 

Nikon D7200, F/10, 1/400, ISO400

Yes I see it is out of focus.  Sometimes when focusing on an item so far away using single point (which maybe I need to get away from) it is like my camera is lost trying to decide on focusing on the bird or the grass behind jumping around so I more than likely focused on the box itself.   I hope this makes sense and am open to any suggestions on how the focusing should be set up in a situation like this.

 

The other thing that I have and this is a very serious issue I have to learn how to correct is when I snap the button I tend to move a bit.   Just pressing down on that button for some reason I move. 

 

I thought a F/10 Aperture was pretty good.  What would one use in this situation?

 

Also I took a class and was told to always use single point metering.   But reading about it online I am not sure that is right and I probably need to understand that more.  But my camera is set to Single Point Metering.

 

 

Picture #2

Nikon D7200, F/10, 1/1000, ISO 400

The reason the juniper was more focused is because that is where I was focusing.  In my process of trying to get locked on the bird it took off.  I snapped a half second too late.

 

 

I want to thank you for your comments.  I really appreciate it very much.

[ScottinPollock]

Yes I see it is out of focus.  Sometimes when focusing on an item so far away using single point (which maybe I need to get away from) it is like my camera is lost trying to decide on focusing on the bird or the grass behind jumping around so I more than likely focused on the box itself.   I hope this makes sense and am open to any suggestions on how the focusing should be set up in a situation like this.

I don't really do birds… but with animals I try to use a single cross-type point and focus on an eye. BTW, if you view your raw files in Capture, it will show you the focus point used.
 

The other thing that I have and this is a very serious issue I have to learn how to correct is when I snap the button I tend to move a bit.   Just pressing down on that button for some reason I move.

Most of us do. You've got 6 FPS… use it. Get in the habit of firing off short bursts when not on a tripod. You will usually find your best shot somewhere after the first one and before the last one.
 

I thought a F/10 Aperture was pretty good.  What would one use in this situation?

It all depends on what you're after (soft background, everything sharp, lens at its best). It comes down to experience, but you'll get a good starting point by getting something like the HyperFocal app for your phone. This will give a very good estimation of your depth of field based on sensor, focal length, aperture, and distance from subject.
 

Also I took a class and was told to always use single point metering.   But reading about it online I am not sure that is right and I probably need to understand that more.  But my camera is set to Single Point Metering.

 
I rarely use spot metering. Mostly center weighted unless I am bracketing or have a lot of backlight (in which case I use matrix). If your happy with the exposure I wouldn't worry about it (plus you have quite a bit of leeway in post if you're shooting raw).

For that bird that surprised you leaving the juniper, assuming the shutter speed was high enough to freeze that motion… 3D tracking or dynamic mode with most or all of the focus points in play may have saved that shot. The difference between these two modes is that 3D tries to identify the subject that was initially acquired, and selects a new focus point when it has determined the subject has moved from that initially acquired focus point. This works best when the subject stands out from the background in color and/or contrast (as it actually uses the metering matrix to help). Dynamic mode uses info from adjacent focus points to aid focus if the subject moves from the initially acquired focus point. It works best when there is not a huge change in the subject's position at capture from the original focus acquisition.

While not quite in the D5/D500's league, these modes work pretty well on the D7200. Not always, but you'll likely get better results with it on versus off in those situations where you can't keep a single point exactly on the subject.

[Steve M]

I don't really do birds… but with animals I try to use a single cross-type point and focus on an eye. BTW, if you view your raw files in Capture, it will show you the focus point used.

 

Yes I have been playing with Capture some as I just got it and noticed that the focus point is shown.

 

Most of us do. You've got 6 FPS… use it. Get in the habit of firing off short bursts when not on a tripod. You will usually find your best shot somewhere after the first one and before the last one.

 Great idea
 

It all depends on what you're after (soft background, everything sharp, lens at its best). It comes down to experience, but you'll get a good starting point by getting something like the HyperFocal app for your phone. This will give a very good estimation of your depth of field based on sensor, focal length, aperture, and distance from subject.

 I downloaded it.   Will set it up and then start using it. 
 

I rarely use spot metering. Mostly center weighted unless I am bracketing or have a lot of backlight (in which case I use matrix). If your happy with the exposure I wouldn't worry about it (plus you have quite a bit of leeway in post if you're shooting raw).

 

As said I took a class and it was recommended.  But it just didn't make sense to me so I am now using Center Weight.

 

 

For that bird that surprised you leaving the juniper, assuming the shutter speed was high enough to freeze that motion… 3D tracking or dynamic mode with most or all of the focus points in play may have saved that shot. The difference between these two modes is that 3D tries to identify the subject that was initially acquired, and selects a new focus point when it has determined the subject has moved from that initially acquired focus point. This works best when the subject stands out from the background in color and/or contrast (as it actually uses the metering matrix to help). Dynamic mode uses info from adjacent focus points to aid focus if the subject moves from the initially acquired focus point. It works best when there is not a huge change in the subject's position at capture from the original focus acquisition.

 

I never have used the 3D because the focus points show up on the sides in the view finder?  But will give it a try.    Dynamic Mode is that the same as HDR??

 

 

I want to thank you for all of your advice.   I won't ask anymore questions for a while   until I try the above recommendations out.

[Ron]

When things are moving (especially towards me or across the plane of focus), I usually switch to AF-C and, of course, I always use back button focus.

 

I agree about firing off bursts if your shutter speed is high enough. I also rarely use spot or matrix metering. I've had the most success with center weighted average.

 

Scott, there are quite a number of hyperfocal apps in the app store. Is there one that you recommend?

 

--Ron

[ScottinPollock]

Dynamic Mode is that the same as HDR??

No. This is one of the AF-area modes. See page 86 of the User Guide for more info.

[Merco_61]

I am not Scott, but I can still recommend good old DOFMaster. The web calculator has been tweaked a bit for the app and is easy to use with a good tutorial embedded in the app. If you are at your computer and want to play with what aperture to set at a given distance, this link might be useful.

[ScottinPollock]

Scott, there are quite a number of hyperfocal apps in the app store. Is there one that you recommend?

Ron...

The one I chose is named "HyperFocal Pro". I like the interface, plus the dev has already calculated the CoC for most all Nikon cameras. It's free without ads, but would have gladly ponied up 5 or so bucks for it (I think it is that good).

It hasn't been updated since last August so I don't know whether the dev is still maintaining it. Even so the only Nikon missing is the D7500 (and I won't be getting one of those), but there is also a CoC calculator built in so you can create a custom setting for any sensor.

[Steve M]

No. This is one of the AF-area modes. See page 86 of the User Guide for more info.

I did a search for dynamic mode and nothing come up. But I did read that page when I was looking up 3-D.. So That sets me in the right direction. Thank you very much

[Ron]

Peter, Scott... thank you both. I'll give them a look see.

 

--Ron

[Marcus Rowland]

Avoid anything at the cheaper end. I've owned a couple and in almost all cases the results have been much poorer than magnifying or selectively cropping an image taken without the converter. Reminds me at some point I really ought to sell the one I currently own, it's not as bad as some but it must be 2-3 years since I last used it.