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WHEN TO USE......


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15 replies to this topic

#1
grandpagreg

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I have a NIKON D40 camera which I love for its 'compactness', especially when we 'tour' on our Honda Goldwing GL1800 motorcycle.

 

I have the following lenses but have always been unsure WHEN, specifically, to use each one of them;

 

AF-S NIKKOR DX 18-55mm 3.5-5.6GII ED lens
AF-S NIKKOR DX 35mm f/1.8G lens
AF-S NIKKOR DX 55-200mm 1.4-5.6G ED lens
NIKON HB-34 lens hood

 

Any suggestions, in 'LENSES FOR DUMMIES' language from 'those in the know' will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Greg



#2
M.Beier

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Personally I loved the fact that 55-300 gave me the reach of '83-450', it was excellent for zoo, and even did for capturing some sport (now I am in for it!)

 

The 35mm I always used as carry around especially at night time

I quickly found that I was never really happy with 18-55 at all....

 

35mm F1.8G at F2.8-4.5 gave me some amazing result... 18-55 I had to go F4.5-7.1 to get anything near acceptable, that isnt a problem outdoor, but indoor that sorta requires too much light, so its a 'must have flash' lens.

 

As for HOOD, I only took off my HOOD before I got an external flash, if I don't bring my flash, then I might take off hood if its blocks the flash, otherwise, never take it off... I have never measured higher shutter speed gained by no hood, which would be my only reason to take it off, it protects the lens, so just leave it on.



#3
Jerry_

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So you have one prime (the 35mm/1.8) and two zoom lenses (18-55 and 55-200) for covering from the the wide angle (18mm) to tele (200mm).

The HB-34 hood is designed for the 55-200 zoom. On top of the fact that lenses have different diameters and therefor not all hoods will fit on any lens, the hood's shape is also designed to fit the field of view of specific lenses. (See later hereafter)

First a word about focal lengths:

What is important to understand is that a 50mm (on a full frame sensor, which is about a 35mm on the D40 sensor) corresponds to the field of view that one sees with your eyes.

Anything wider (i.e. shorter focal length = smaller number; f.i. 18mm) will show more on the picture than you would see with your eyes)

On the other side, using larger focal lenghts is like using binoculars; i.e. zooming in and showing less of the overall, but with more details.

When do you typically want to see more? This may f.i. be valid for landscapes or large groups of people.

When do you want to see more details? This may be valid for capturing wildlife and birds, but also for portraits

*** However, how you want to compose your picture - and thereby decide what lens you will choose - depends on you and your preferences. ***

Getting back to the hood, if you are using a wider focal length than the one for which the hood is designed for, it may cover part of the picture (typically you get black corners on the resulting pictures).


Next a few words about the aperture:

The second important numbers are the one following the focal length; i.e. 3.5-5.6 and 1.8.

These numbers indicate the maximum aperture that the lens has. The aperture is a measure for how large the lens opens to let the light in. As this is a fraction, the smaller the number the better it is (as the corresponding opening will be wider). The fact to have two values for your aperture on the zoom lenses is linked to the fact that the max aperture varies for the listed lenses with the focal length (i.e. 18-55/3.5-5.6 means that the max aperture at 18mm is 3.5 and progressively decreases the more you zoom in, ending with a max aperture of 5.6 when you reach 55mm).

The more light can get into the lens, the shorter will be the time for getting your picture properly exposed (i.e. The shutter speed). This is especially true when it gets darker (pictures taken in the evening or at night, pictures taken indoor)

Also, as autofocussing happens with the aperture max open, it will be faster for lenses that have a larger aperture (smaller number for this value)


In short:

Using the 35mm may be fine for your daily shots, especially as it has a larger aperture.

Using the 18-55 can be a good walk around lens if you are not sure what you will capture while walking in the nature or a city, as it is both wider and narrower than your normal field of view (remember: the 35mm on the D40). The wide angle will be fine for landscapes and architecture)

Using the 55-200 will suit when you need to zoom in; i.e. usually for sports, portraits, architectural details, or birding and wildlife.

The HB-34 hood shall only be used on the 55-200

However, whatever lens you will use will depend on how you want to compose your image. Only experimenting will tell you, what is best for what you want to capture.

#4
Merco_61

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The correct hood for the 18-55 is a HB-45 and for the 35 DX, a HB-46. They are both good hoods and will protect your lenses from stray light and also protect your front elements when you use them. These hoods are well worth getting and always use.



#5
grandpagreg

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Also, can anyone suggest any other Accessories that I should have?



#6
Jerry_

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This depends on what you want to achieve and what type of photography you want to do.

Depending on, (but for you to confirm) what can be useful on a general aspect of photography is a flashlight, a tripod, a camera bag, as well as some filters or the two extra hoods listed by Peter.

However, my proposal would rather be for you to start using what you currently have to find the shortcomes and then see what extras can be useful.

Feel free to post some of your captures or raise here issues where you want us to contribute.

#7
Ron

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Jerry is right. A camera is just a tool. How you use it, and what other accessories you may need, depend entirely on what you're trying to accomplish.

 

If you're primarily interested in landscapes you'll need different accessories than you would if you want to shoot close ups. Likewise, you'll need different accessories for portrait work than you might need for shooting star trails at night. It all depends on where your interest lies. 

 

The equipment you have now is good for general photography. Everyday pictures and perhaps occasional trips to the zoo. We can better advise you if we know what type photography you want to do.

 

--Ron



#8
Wayben

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I agree with the two posts above.  You have the basics (other than the two hoods suggested).  Get some experience with what you have, then see where your interests take you.  If you post some examples of what you want to do the folks here can help you get what you are looking for.



#9
grandpagreg

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I particularly like to take photos of landscapes, family (in groups or Portraits), 'action' shots at sporting events........along with other 'ad hoc' stuff.

 

I forgot to mention that  I have a '1/2 decent' tripod as well as well as the HB46 Lens Hood which came with my 35mm lens.



#10
Merco_61

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You have a good starter set of lenses, just get a hood for the 18-55 and shoot as much as you can. You might find a use for a good polarizer and a neutral density filter for your landscape photography, but that's it, I think.



#11
M.Beier

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You have a good starter set of lenses, just get a hood for the 18-55 and shoot as much as you can. You might find a use for a good polarizer and a neutral density filter for your landscape photography, but that's it, I think.

Curious, how come the ND filter? I think polarizer can make sense, but with landscape atleast I want narrow aperture and the shutterspeed doesnt matter any more then the faster (the more light) the lower ISO. I cannot think of a scenario where I'd like to dimm the light reaching the sensor, what am I missing?

 

- But then again; I skipped all thought of getting ND filters, as I only see it for special shoots that are really not my type of photography.



#12
Merco_61

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Marc, think dreamy running water without having to use a too small aperture and lose contrast to diffraction. The D40 has ISO 200 as it's lowest if I remember correctly.



#13
grandpagreg

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Thank you all for your replies. They are much appreciated.

 

I forgot to mention that I have Polarizing Filters on the 18-55 and 55-200mm lenses.

 

I will look for one for the 35mm lens as well.


I also forgot to mention that I almost always shoot in AUTO mode.

 

I guess I should at least take a SLR PHOTOGRAPHY FOR DUMMIES course. :wacko:



#14
leighgion

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Thank you all for your replies. They are much appreciated.

 

I forgot to mention that I have Polarizing Filters on the 18-55 and 55-200mm lenses.

 

I will look for one for the 35mm lens as well.


I also forgot to mention that I almost always shoot in AUTO mode.

 

I guess I should at least take a SLR PHOTOGRAPHY FOR DUMMIES course. :wacko:

 

Taking a beginner's class isn't a bad idea if you feel you'd benefit from that kind of guidance. We're all different kinds of learners. You might also see if there's a local beginner-friendly camera club, which emphasis on the beginner friendly part.

 

As the other posts have noted, you've got a nice starter kit of hardware that's actually very close to what I started out with. You just need to experience to understand just what you want out of your camera and which lenses, and accessories if it gets to that, that will best serve your needs and budget. More is not necessarily better, so don't over shop too early.



#15
TBonz

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One thing that is very nice about digital photography is the ability to experiment.  Pick a subject and shoot manually.  Use your camera's meter as a starting point and then change things around - over-expose and under-expose to see how the images vary until they are way too dark or way to bright.  The metered image may or may not be the best, but go back to using the meter and keep trying different settings (aperture, shutter and ISO) using the meter to see how the different settings impact your image - the smaller the aperture (bigger #) the more image will appear in focus.  The shutter will stop or blur motion and the ISO will allow you to adjust so that you can get the desired shutter speed / aperture at different levels of light - with the possibility of more grain within the image as the ISO goes up.



#16
nikdood17

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I suggest you ride around with only one lens. That will teach you what that particular lens will NOT do. Then do the same with another lens. If you do not "see" photos in your mind and say "if I went there to that spot and use a 50mm lens at f 1.4, I'd have a great shot," and so on you will soon so if you keep at it. You can have too many lenses/options. After a while you will know with just a glance what lens you need and where to stand or whatever to get that great shot.