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Powered strobes


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12 replies to this topic

#1
OTRTexan

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I've been shooting rodeos lately and really enjoy it. Horses are in my blood and would love to make them a solid part of my business. Where I'll have to start is the smaller rodeos, which usually start before sundown and go into the night. Or some of them are indoors. While I've made some decent images so far, I am struggling with noise, even with the D5. The the arena lights cycling, it's kind of hit and miss. So, I need to add some powered monolights. I'd like to find a set that has a chance to keep up with the D5 as much as possible. I know that it isn't going to happen fully, in fact I may be better off using the 810 once I need lights.

If really prefer not to spend 10k on lights. I think I'll need 4 at a minimum. Has anyone had any luck with mid priced lights vs going all out with profoto bank breakers?


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#2
Merco_61

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I used Quantum Qflash units before I got my Broncolor Verso system. They worked well, but they didn't offer the precise control or the raw power of a Broncolor, Elinchrom or Profoto system. I think dcbear78 uses a Godox clone of the Qflash and likes it very much. The ~400 J of the smallish bulb in a Qflash or clone doesn't give the same light output as the larger bulbs in the battery-adapted more conventional systems, but they work well and the clones cost a small fraction of the pack and head or monoblock units. 

 

By the way, if you think the Profoto B-1 are bankbreakers I think you will get a bad case of sticker shock if you price out a 4-head Broncolor Move or Verso solution ;) . The Siros L monoblocks are relatively cheap, for full-on studio lights with the battery power option.



#3
dcbear78

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Adorama.... Flashpoint Xplor 600 (Adorama rebadged Godox AD600)... You can thank me later
Will you be permitted to use this kind of flash? Most sporting events I know of do not permit flash during competitions.

#4
OTRTexan

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Adorama.... Flashpoint Xplor 600 (Adorama rebadged Godox AD600)... You can thank me later
Will you be permitted to use this kind of flash? Most sporting events I know of do not permit flash during competitions.


I thought the same thing till I started doing some research. As I was looking at other images at the PRCA level, I realized that flash was being used, so started talking to the photographers. They all use strobes. In the major arenas, the are using 10 or more to get good coverage.


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#5
Ron

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I've never shot rodeos but I've been to them so I know that there's action all over the arena. I can't help but wonder how you're going to follow that action with a fixed strobe... unless you plan to just blast as much light as possible and cover the entire arena.

 

--Ron



#6
OTRTexan

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Ron, I think it would involve a lot of adjusting between events, or as much as I can as there usually isn't a lot of time. Like most sporting events, you can anticipate most of it. Most of the bull riding is in front of the shoots, roping, same thing but the other end, etc. The problem will be starting out with only a 4 light set. The image I posted in the weekly thing was just arena lights, so it's possible to get usable shots with available light. I want to increase my available light for when the arena lights are on a low cycle.

Ron, I'm pretty sure I won't need more than a 500w system. But I do want something with a decent recycle time. I looked at the Flashpoint ones, they appear to be battery only? I can't imagine they would last through a rodeo. I very well could be wrong.


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#7
ousantacruz

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I use an Indra 500 from Phottix. They also have an Indra 360 which is a little cheaper. They are fully featured so ttl and hss abilities are built in. They come with a battery pack that I think is rated for 200 full powered shots. They're controlled by the Phottix Odin though you'll want the Odin ii since you want more than 3 lights (Odin ii controls up to 5) I've been very happy with mine, been using it for a while and it's been reliable. It may not keep up with an extended burst from them d5 but it refreshes pretty quick. Just look into it though, I've heard people are having issues with Phottix (and other 3rd party) flashes and strobes with the d500 so the d5 may have the same thing.

#8
OTRTexan

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I'd actually love to use Photix. That's the flashes I have, so I already own the triggers. I looked at the reviews on B&H, and they are all over the place. Granted, most of the recent ones are very positive, so maybe they worked out the kinks.

Can these be run strictly from AC power, or only the battery pack? I worry that the battery won't last as long as I need it to.


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#9
dcbear78

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Where are you going to get access to multiple AC points without running long, long cables everywhere?

Also worth remembering using lighting will change the dynamic a bit. You'll be able to drop shutter speed down to something like 1/200s and still freeze action. This obviously affects the other facets of your exposure.

#10
OTRTexan

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I'll certainly need extension cords, but most arenas have power on all sides.

As far as exposure, it will certainly require some practice on my part beforehand. Even now, I rarely use flash. The Photix system is TTL, though some reviews I've read say it's not consistent, while others say it's spot on.


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#11
dcbear78

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If it's slightly dark I find TTL to not be reliable as it tries to flood your frame with light losing ambience. Works great for outdoor daylight portraits though.

HSS might sound good but I've read for freezing action it is actually counterintuitive. But different lights achieve this in different ways and it may work on some.

#12
Merco_61

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There is an optional AC power unit for the Indra 500. It costs a bit, but it can power two units.

 

Darryl is right in that HSS gives longer exposure if the flash is the main light as the standard flash exposure is so very short. 



#13
ousantacruz

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I'd actually love to use Photix. That's the flashes I have, so I already own the triggers. I looked at the reviews on B&H, and they are all over the place. Granted, most of the recent ones are very positive, so maybe they worked out the kinks.

Can these be run strictly from AC power, or only the battery pack? I worry that the battery won't last as long as I need it to.


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As far as I can tell it's one or the other. The AC pack looks like the battery pack except it's plugged in. I'm curious if that'd make the recycle time even quicker? I don't ever drain the battery so I never looked into in. I only have the Odin for Nikon but I do have a mitros+ for sony and it works great too.

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