6 replies to this topic

[ste_franks]

Out & about this afternoon, I first saw the owl flying away from me about 20m. I was struggling through rather long grass. Then to my amazement it turned round and flew towards me all I could think of doing was setting to auto and hope for the best. As you can see it's not the best, but better then I'd expected. What I would like to know
Is what else I could have done to improve the image.


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[Kenafein]

I once had an Osprey, carrying a huge fish, fly right over me, but I wasn't ready.  I lost the shot.  I've lost many shots.  This auto mode locked onto the trees and you panned the shot with a slow shutter causing the motion blur.  If you're birding you should have your camera setup for birding, otherwise just enjoy the BIF as they go by.  

[Merco_61]

First, what camera do you have? This matters as we might know the limitations and strengths from that info.

Second, stay away from Auto and the "helpful" modes as they nearly always hinder more than they help if you want consistently good results. There is a reason the top of the line bodies don't have them.

Third, experiment so you know what settings for follow-focus works for you with your camera for wildlife and use that setting when out in situations like this.

Fourth, get to know how high ISO you can tolerate and set up AutoISO accordingly.

Fifth, is situations like this, switch to P mode and flick the  main control wheel to keep the shutter faster than 1/1000 s or so. ProgramFlex will not change your AF mode settings unlike Auto, so you will not end up with Auto-AF setting focus on the background as you try to follow the bird. If you are out birding, use S mode so you keep control of the shutter.

[ste_franks]

First, what camera do you have? This matters as we might know the limitations and strengths from that info.
Second, stay away from Auto and the "helpful" modes as they nearly always hinder more than they help if you want consistently good results. There is a reason the top of the line bodies don't have them.
Third, experiment so you know what settings for follow-focus works for you with your camera for wildlife and use that setting when out in situations like this.
Fourth, get to know how high ISO you can tolerate and set up AutoISO accordingly.
Fifth, is situations like this, switch to P mode and flick the main control wheel to keep the shutter faster than 1/1000 s or so. ProgramFlex will not change your AF mode settings unlike Auto, so you will not end up with Auto-AF setting focus on the background as you try to follow the bird. If you are out birding, use S mode so you keep control of the shutter.

NikonD5100


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[Kenafein]

When I am shooting birds I use M mode with Auto ISO.  I don't know if the D5100 has auto ISO in M mode.  If I am shooting BIF, on my 150-600mm zoom, I set it to F/8 or F/11 and the shutter speed to 1/1500.  If your camera doesn't have auto ISO in M mode, then you might want to use shutter priority, but it will try to open the lens up to its widest aperture, i suspect.  I am not sure about your AF module, but play around with modes.  You'll want fewer spots, maybe even single spot, shoot the bird dead center and crop later.  You don't generally have the luxury of composing BIF shots(maybe the really good guys do).  On my D600 I use the 9 points in the center.  Neither of us have ideal birding cameras though.  I sure would love to get my hands on a D810 or a D500,  Which lenses do you have?

 

P.S.  I use auto mode a lot in dynamic situations with people and a camera mounted flash.  Nothing wrong with the auto mode, but it's rubbish for birding.

 

P.S.S. Night portrait mode works really well for it's intended purpose as well.    

[ste_franks]

When I am shooting birds I use M mode with Auto ISO. I don't know if the D5100 has auto ISO in M mode. If I am shooting BIF, on my 150-600mm zoom, I set it to F/8 or F/11 and the shutter speed to 1/1500. If your camera doesn't have auto ISO in M mode, then you should use might want to use shutter priority, but it will try to open the lens up to its widest aperture, i suspect. I am not sure about your AF module, but play around with modes. You'll want fewer spots, maybe even single spot, shoot the bird dead center and crop later. You don't generally have the luxury of composing BIF shots. On my D600 I use the 9 points in the center. Neither of us have ideal birding cameras though. I sure would love to get my hands on a D810 or a D500, Which lenses do you have?

P.S. I use auto mode a lot in dynamic situations with people and a camera mounted flash. Nothing wrong with the auto mode, but it's rubbish for birding.

thanks for the help , the lense is the kit lense that came with the camera . AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G

[Kenafein]

thanks for the help , the lense is the kit lense that came with the camera . AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6G

 

I noticed it was at 55mm, and I assumed it's what you had on your camera at the time.  You're not likely to have a bird fly that close to you very often.  200mm is the minimum for large birds that are not timid(perched or on the ground).  300mm is the minimum for medium birds and 400mm is the bare minimum for anything small.  You always want to get as close as possible, if you want to get any detail.  The Nikkor 55-300mm lens can be had for ~$200, off ebay, in the states.  You might want to look into getting it if you don't have it.  It would be great for medium to large birds at a wetlands.