Nikonian
I've heard from some people that, for macro, Live View is the way to go. Unfortunately, as you said msrif, you really do need a monitor hood or loupe to make it work. And, when I'm in the heat of doing award photography, I always seem to fall back to my old habits... peeping through the viewfinder. One of these days (nights actually) I'm gonna have to give it a real try. Hopefully, I pick a night where I don't have too many plants to photograph.
--Ron
Member
Macro is definitely a challenge. Perhaps someone has said this already but when shooting bugs sometimes the cool early morning is a good time as the bugs are often sluggish or not moving yet and you might even get the added interest of some dew. Right angle view finders, if your camera can accept them, can also help with the awkward shooting angles you sometimes find yourself in. Above all don't get discouraged and keep practicing. At least you don't have film costs while learning.
Junior Member
The OP needn't apologize! These are good. Your success rate is good, closeup or macro is difficult, even for seemingly immobile flowers - always some !#$@#$@#$#$% little breeze at the wrong time.
Herewith some musings from my closeup/macro "adventures."
For flowers and that sort, I feel a tripod is essential, along with a cable release (you can see I started out in film). I'd suggest a tripod without the struts linking the legs to the center post; you want to be able to splay the legs independently. Get one which will let you "get down and dirty" Gotta be willing to sit or even sprawl on the ground. Along with that a right angle finder is nice if your screen won't twist and tilt, those on my Pentaxes won't. I won't get into the ball head vs 3 axes controversy; for my use in closeup/macro shooting the 3 axis does the job. Don't want things flopping all over the place!
With tripods you have to balance: Sturdy. Compact. Cheap. I've never seen one with all three attributes. Used is good here.
A focus rail is worthy. Here're some examples: focus rack - Google Search I have one of the $ 40.00 varieties, adequate to my needs. These gems let you adjust your camera position within limits without moving the tripod. Only disadvantage is that they raise the camera's height. If you use one of these be careful flopping the head for a vertical, you might overbalance things.
Our friend from Sweden had some good points on lighting. Often a high overcast is the best lighting without supplemental lights or diffusers.
For butterflies and such size critters I've found the 18-55 Pentax kit lens is often adequate. It focuses pretty close; I set the autofocus to allow the shutter to release only when focus is achieved. I then focus by moving the camera. I also have a Vivitar 100 f3.5 macro for moving closer. Its manual focus, so I use the same "catch focus" technique as above.
The Vivitar is a true "plastic fantastic." Build quality is only adequate, but the results are excellent. Ratio is 1:2 continuous focus, 1:1 with the furnished achromat closeup lens. Mine new was about $100, I don't think its available new now. An inexpensive intro to macro formerly available in MF or Autofocus.
Depth of field? Ain't much, as you already know. There is focus stacking for which a focus rail and a stationary subject are essential. Otherwise stop down and take your lumps! Of course at the smallest stops diffraction rears its ugly fuzzy head.
And, course, patience.....
Nikonian
A focus rail is worthy. Here're some examples: focus rack - Google Search I have one of the $ 40.00 varieties, adequate to my needs. These gems let you adjust your camera position within limits without moving the tripod. Only disadvantage is that they raise the camera's height. If you use one of these be careful flopping the head for a vertical, you might overbalance things.
This is another area where an "L" bracket comes in handy. Of course this also means that you have to add an Arca type QR plate to your focus rail, but the results are worth the effort and expense.
--Ron
This is another area where an "L" bracket comes in handy. Of course this also means that you have to add an Arca type QR plate to your focus rail, but the results are worth the effort and expense.
--Ron
If you, like banffdude are fortunate enough to have the Sigma 150, the right way to mount the lens on a rail is either a RRS L84 fore-aft plate or something like a Sirui TY60 or TY70 if the available funds are not unlimited. You still need the Arca-plate on the rail, but using a collar is much easier and puts less stress on the lensmount.
Nikonian
I was assuming a lens without it's own tripod collar, but if one is available, that's certainly a better choice.
Adding QR support to anything that's predates quick releases in general can often be a bit like playing Rubik's Cube.
--Ron
New Member
Hello everyone, just joined the community and need help in selecting a macro lens for my D5200. I love to take extreme close ups of flowers and water droplets. Please advise regarding which macro lens to buy. Thanks.
What is extreme closeups in your world? Is it 1:1 or is it more magnification? Do you think that you will want to photograph spiders and insects as well as flowers and water droplets?
If the working distance isn't too important, the AF-S MicroNikkor 60/2.8 or the Tamron 60/2 are good choices. They both double as very sharp portrait lenses as well.
If you need more working distance, so you can shoot webspinning spiders, bees and butterflies, the MicroNikkor 105/2.8 or the Tamron 90/2.8 are better choices than their shorter siblings.
If you feel that you will want to go after dragonflies or jumping spiders, things get expensive fast as the Sigma 150/2.8, Sigma 180/2.8 or the MicroNikkor 200/4 cost some serious money. The 200 will be even more expensive if you want it to autofocus as it is an older lens without the focus motor in the lens that the D5200 needs for AF to work. This means that it needs to be mounted on a D7200 or better to AF.
As all these lenses are internal focus, you will need a good diopter if you want to go beyond 1:1 as IF lenses don't work right with extension tubes.
Nikonian
As all these lenses are internal focus, you will need a good diopter if you want to go beyond 1:1 as IF lenses don't work right with extension tubes.
What's the problem with IF lenses and extension tubes?
--Ron
New Member
Thanks for your help. Extreme closeups for me mean even the innermost parts of the flower and i really am not much into insect photography, maybe once in a while of bees or spiders.
If a 24x16 mm part of reality is enough, any of the current macro lenses will work as they go to 1:1. If you need more, check that you can find a diopter or set of diopters that fit your new lens before you decide... The Tamron 60 has a 55 mm front thread, the Nikkor 60, 105 and 200 and the Tamron 90 are all 62 mm and the Sigma 150 is 72 mm.
If you can find a Nikon No. 6T diopter and use that on either the Nikkor 105 or the Tamron 90, you will have the optimal combination for your more extreme needs. The ~100 mm lenses give a bit more working distance than the 60-s, which can be useful if you need to use flash or reflectors to get enough light where you need it.
Unfortunately, the Nikon diopters are out of production but you can use a Canon D500 in 72 mm with a 72 to 62 step-down ring. The Canon is weaker at only +2 diopters compared to the Nikon's +2.9 but still very usable.
Diopters from filter manufacturers range from very good, almost comparable to a 6T or D500 to crap that isn't usable. You will have to read reviews to find out what is what if you go that route.
I haven't seen anyone else mention this, but please start using your tripod. It may seem cumbersome at first, however, you will be impressed with the results. Just as you have mentioned about breathing, even a heart beat will blur the photograph. I use mine now 100% of the time and I am glad that I chose to do so.
Rgds,
Antonio
New Member
Hello everyone. Have received quotes for the lenses shortlisted
Tamron 60 mm Rs 26500,
Tamron 90 mm Rs 24750.
Tamron 90 mm new model Rs 44250
Nikkor 60 mm Rs 36000
Nikkor 105 mm Rs 52300. My budget is around 30000. Should i go for tamron 90 mm old model or nikkor 60mm.
Please help.
Please check that the Nikkor isn't the D version at that price. The D version doesn't have the focus motor in the lens you need for AF to work with your body. The old, old Tamron without VC doesn't have the focus motor either but the older VC version that was introduced in 2013 does. It does, however have a 55 mm filter thread unlike the latest version. The first VC version of the Tamron is a good lens even if the latest is even better. I would probably go with the Tamron in your situation as the extra working distance and some saved money are nice features.
New Member
Right. So I think i shall go ahead with the 90 mm Tamron. Thanks Merco_61 for your prompt help.
New Member
Got the Tamron 90 mm finally. Now my question is regarding the diopters that Merco_61 had advised. What exactly will these help in ?
Got the Tamron 90 mm finally. Now my question is regarding the diopters that Merco_61 had advised. What exactly will these help in ?
With a "close-up filter" or more correctly diopter you will get higher magnification than the naked lens. Think of it as using a magnifying glass. A good diopter is a better way to go beyond 1:1 than extension tubes with internal focus or close-range corrected lenses. If you are satisfied with capturing a 24x16 mm part of reality, they aren't necessary.
New Member
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