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D750 vs. D810


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83 replies to this topic

#21
OTRTexan

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A - as I recall, the front dial changes between the amount of focus points while the back button changes between AF-S and AF-C, etc...Not sure about displaying the available points...


This is correct. As far as displaying the focal points in your viewfinder, you can turn them on in the custom settings menu. I can give you the exact place later when I can get to my camera

#22
M.Beier

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Which AF mode do you guys think make most sense?
Kenrockwell says he prefers 3D mode, as it hunts the colour of the object once you've selected, it sure wont loose track.

 

However many things I disagree with his choice, such as quality the cam selects.

 

The guy (pro photographer) I bought the cam from, says he uses 9 point or single, because the camera isnt fast enough for the other AF modes (in some cases), any thoughts on this?

 

Ah and finally; This I am COMPLETELY green.

Adobe RGB, sRGB which one you pick? It was put to Adobe, but from Kenrockwell sRGB came highly recommended, honestly, I don't know the difference.



#23
Merco_61

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Single for static shots, 9-point for predictable, linear movement, 21-point for sports and 51-point for BIF. 3D is nice for tennis or badminton players that are large, isolated and unpredictable. This means that I more or less follow the manual.

 

AdobeRGB gives a histogram that is more usable and is better for print, sRGB is the safest choice for the web. What raw converter do you use? If you use ACR in some form, it will discard the profile and apply ProPhotoRGB anyway... I use AdobeRGB and a picture control with very low contrast and saturation to get a histogram and clipping warnings that corresponds better to my postprocessing. I have NX-D set to change the picture control to [SD]Standard as a starting point when I open the NEF.



#24
M.Beier

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Single for static shots, 9-point for predictable, linear movement, 21-point for sports and 51-point for BIF. 3D is nice for tennis or badminton players that are large, isolated and unpredictable. This means that I more or less follow the manual.

 

AdobeRGB gives a histogram that is more usable and is better for print, sRGB is the safest choice for the web. What raw converter do you use? If you use ACR in some form, it will discard the profile and apply ProPhotoRGB anyway... I use AdobeRGB and a picture control with very low contrast and saturation to get a histogram and clipping warnings that corresponds better to my postprocessing. I have NX-D set to change the picture control to [SD]Standard as a starting point when I open the NEF.

Any impact on JPEG? I have to admit, 19/20 pictures I actually don't use the RAW file, it is just nice to have in case some work is needed.



#25
TBonz

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In my case I use AF-C single point with back button focus for almost everything...Several of the sports photographers I've spoken with do the same or use 9 point or 3D depending on the sport...I am planning on experimenting with some of the other options on my D4 but probably not until later in the season - maybe early May...I have gotten far more keepers shooting sports with the single center point and AF-C then I did (pre-D4) when I shot multi-point.  Obviously if I hit the button it is going to focus on that single spot, so I have to keep the primary subject in the center of my frame.  With baseball I will frequently anticipate the action and pre-focus on a given point where I know I will get peak action if the play goes as I anticipate.  If not, I swing my camera towards the action, hit the focus and shoot...definitely takes some getting used to with constant action sports like lacrosse, rugby or soccer, but it works quite well...I will have a few games that I am shooting for myself in early May, so I am hoping to play with some other settings then.  I hate to play when I'm on a planned shoot with a purpose...My only requirement for the games in early May is to capture photos of my son for our family, so not a major issue if I don't get as many keepers...

 

And OTR - I knew you'd have the answer!  :)



#26
OTRTexan

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With my 810, I use single point for everything but birds in flight, especially if I'm shooting at the long end of my glass. Then I switch to 9 pt.

This weekend with the D5, I had better luck shooting 25pt when I was shooting basketball.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#27
M.Beier

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Thanks for all the advice guys, I tried 3D focus, it was crap.

9pt is my favorite for street with people, didnt try single point afs-c.
Afs-s area works surprisingly well, but not used much as I prefer more control. The ISO button is located annoying for my style, however found a feature that allows me to use rear wheel to adjust without holding down the ISO button.

New 24-70 tamron is GREAT!!!
150-600, I will need some time to accept it takes such fast shutter to get 500mm focal sharp and none shaky...

Sadly, seems my D800E needs cleaning, the bigger focal makes it more obvious that it is dirty, yet, it only appears in viewfinder, not in liveview and when I zoom in on picture once it is taken. Any thoughts and advice on this?

Ps: both the Kingston SD 90/80MB/s I bought are junk, card error at random time and then formats both cards, fortunately happend during my test day.

... ended up ordering Meike battery grip, because I would like it for vertical shots, picking up 2nd may.
.. and bought a SanDisk 64GB SD, the fast one.

For remote, any cheap suggestion? For not shaking tripod... Timelapse is not a must but wont hurt
Still shoot in A mode, not P.

#28
Merco_61

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As you have already found, 3d-focus isn't often the best choice. If the background is dark and the subjects are light and large, it works better than the others but that is seldom the case...

 

If you can see dirty spots in the viewfinder, the dirt is on the focusing screen or less often on the bottom of the prism. You learn to not be distracted by the spots or hair, so cleaning can wait until the camera is due for a CLA anyway. You can clean the screen yourself by removing it from the body and blowing it clean with compressed air. Be careful if you decide to do it yourself as it is easy to make things worse.

 

The pro bodies have always been finicky about what memory cards are used and Kingstons don't have the most stellar reputation so it isn't too surprising that they caused problems. It is good that you discovered the problem before you had something irreplacable on a crashed card.

 

A Phottix wired remote is cheap and works as nice as other third-party ones. I use the Nikon MC-30A usually as it is more dependable than the third-party offerings but I still have a Phottix or two that are modified in different ways to trigger the camera with a foot or your teeth when the hands are busy.  Make sure you get the version with the 10-pin socket, though.

Unlike a Canon or a cheaper Nikon, you won't need a separate intervalometer for time-lapse as it is already built-in.



#29
TBonz

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I don't do much tripod work, but have used TriggerTrap in the past...basically wiring your smartphone to control the body...it does time lapse as well, firing the shutter at intervals...Used it on my D600 a few times...I have the (different) cable for my D4 but haven't used it yet...



#30
M.Beier

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Please save me before I break something!
I use a trio.

24-70 F2.8
70-200 F2.8
150-600 F5-6.3

All Tamron
... about AF finetune, 150-600 needs -8, 70-200 -4 and 24-70 -1...
Now the thing is...
24-70, 70-200, it detect as same!!! If delete old entry then I can register new...
Tried adding in different order, no help.... really annoying issue, any fixes? It is testing my patience

#31
Merco_61

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You could try shooting dcbear78 a pm if he doesn't chime in. I think he uses both these lenses, even if he has a D810. By the way, are you sure that the -4 and -1 are correct at all focal lengths? The necessary fine tune often differs with the f/l.



#32
M.Beier

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You could try shooting dcbear78 a pm if he doesn't chime in. I think he uses both these lenses, even if he has a D810. By the way, are you sure that the -4 and -1 are correct at all focal lengths? The necessary fine tune often differs with the f/l.

Honestly no, also feel aps/afs varies a little.
Tested with widest aperture and 70,200,500, the 24-70 I might keep on 0, but the 70-200 needs some.
150-600 I only tested with static birds, as sunny weather here means im in aircon, too hot...

#33
M.Beier

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Problem with Tamron lenses on D800 - Nikon Rumors Forum

Nuke explains the issue... wonder if I can change/fix it

#34
dcbear78

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Yeah this is a known issue with the two Tamron lenses for some reason. The body can't recognise the difference between the two and can only AF fine tune one of them. Haven't seen a fix for it yet. My 24-70mm is my least used lens so I chose not to adjust it. Fortunately for me it is the one least needing it done. I shot the 70-200mm a lot at f2.8 and 200mm so need the fine tuning for that more.



#35
M.Beier

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I use 24-70 most, atleast during this vacation.

But, will it work doing 70-200, and when using 24-70 just turn AF-Finetune off?
Also, dc, do you own the 15-30, and will it face same issue?

Oh, and regarding AF, I have used AFC-S, any downside to this compared to AFS-S? I believe it is much harder on battery, but that is not important.
Hmm...

Also, any hotkey for virtual horizon feature? Sometimes when tracking speedboat, my horizon gets very messed up.

Last but not least, my cam weakness, the dial next to viewfinder, right, AE/AF lock, dot/center/? Still not played with that.... should probably investigate impact of doing so....

Final comment, why oh why isnt light compensation button on battery grip, really miss being able to adjust with ease for vertical shots, I often do 3 shots at different setting, to compare later, the D800E screen isnt exactly great.
Hmm, tempted to buy 50mm nikkor 1.8G, the AF is better then 24-70 or not?

#36
Merco_61

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Here is how I like to assign buttons on the D800:

 

Shutter: AE-L on half-press

FUNC: FV lock or spot metering

Preview: DOF preview 

AF-On: AF-ON Only

AF-L/AE-L: Virtual horizon

Movie-record button: BKT

 

With exposure lock on half-press of the shutter, I can meter off a grey card or the back of my hand easily, the AF-On button only active decouples focus from the shutter button.

When I use CLS, I like to have flash value lock on the FUNC button so I can pre-fire the flash for the meter and avoid blinking eyes because of the preflash, otherwise a temporary spotmeter control is useful.

As I use fast lenses with a short DOF, I find the DOF preview valuable.

As there are other buttons that control the focus lock and exposure lock aspects, the AF-L/AE-L button is free to activate the virtual horizon.

As long as the firmware has been upgraded, the movie-record button can be reassigned to do something useful, like bracketing.

 

I don't remember where to change it, but the subcommand dial can be set to change the exposure compensation without pressing the +/- button in A or S mode. This carries over to the vertical grip. 

 

The 50/1.8G is very precise in acquiring focus, but the old 50/1.8D is faster. I think it hunts less in low light than most zooms.

 

When it comes to the metering methods dial, the third position is for matrix metering. Matrix metering usually works well, but there is no warning when it guesses wrong about the type of scene and completely blows the exposure. I usually use centerweighted metering as it is very consistent.



#37
Kenafein

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Please save me before I break something!
I use a trio.

24-70 F2.8
70-200 F2.8
150-600 F5-6.3

All Tamron
... about AF finetune, 150-600 needs -8, 70-200 -4 and 24-70 -1...
Now the thing is...
24-70, 70-200, it detect as same!!! If delete old entry then I can register new...
Tried adding in different order, no help.... really annoying issue, any fixes? It is testing my patience

It would be awesome of Tamron released a dock like Sigma's.  You can AF fine tune on the lens at various focal lengths.  I just bought the Tamron 24-70/2.8.  I haven't gone through the trouble of adjusting it yet.  



#38
M.Beier

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It would be awesome of Tamron released a dock like Sigma's.  You can AF fine tune on the lens at various focal lengths.  I just bought the Tamron 24-70/2.8.  I haven't gone through the trouble of adjusting it yet.

That would be nice!

Here is how I like to assign buttons on the D800:
 
Shutter: AE-L on half-press
FUNC: FV lock or spot metering
Preview: DOF preview 
AF-On: AF-ON Only
AF-L/AE-L: Virtual horizon
Movie-record button: BKT
 
With exposure lock on half-press of the shutter, I can meter off a grey card or the back of my hand easily, the AF-On button only active decouples focus from the shutter button.
When I use CLS, I like to have flash value lock on the FUNC button so I can pre-fire the flash for the meter and avoid blinking eyes because of the preflash, otherwise a temporary spotmeter control is useful.
As I use fast lenses with a short DOF, I find the DOF preview valuable.
As there are other buttons that control the focus lock and exposure lock aspects, the AF-L/AE-L button is free to activate the virtual horizon.
As long as the firmware has been upgraded, the movie-record button can be reassigned to do something useful, like bracketing.
 
I don't remember where to change it, but the subcommand dial can be set to change the exposure compensation without pressing the +/- button in A or S mode. This carries over to the vertical grip. 
 
The 50/1.8G is very precise in acquiring focus, but the old 50/1.8D is faster. I think it hunts less in low light than most zooms.
 
When it comes to the metering methods dial, the third position is for matrix metering. Matrix metering usually works well, but there is no warning when it guesses wrong about the type of scene and completely blows the exposure. I usually use centerweighted metering as it is very consistent.

Ahh, guess the dial can fix aquarium trouble, usually need -1 to -3, the metering setting is how it detects light?
I use the middle setting, and often compensate.

Thanks for assign tips!
The BKT feature I still did not use, dont think assign will benefit in my case.

Regarding AF pressing shutter is what I use, no other button.

Thanks for all the tips, will try once I return to Denmark

Over'n'out from paradise resort ko yao noi.

#39
Merco_61

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The metering modes are:

  1. Spot meter. A 4 mm circle around the active focus point.
  2. Centerweighted. The whole scene is metered, but with a bias for the center part. You can set the size of that central part with custom function b5.
  3. Matrix. Often called multi-segment metering in books and magazines as every camera maker have their own name for it. The meter evaluates many small parts of the scene and compares it to a database to try to identify portrait, landscapes, backlit, etc and apply correction automatically. 

You do use bracketing, it is just that you do it manually instead of letting the camera help out. Your three shots with varying compensation is exactly what the BKT function does.

 

BTW, where did the aquarium come from?



#40
M.Beier

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The metering modes are:

  • Spot meter. A 4 mm circle around the active focus point.
  • Centerweighted. The whole scene is metered, but with a bias for the center part. You can set the size of that central part with custom function b5.
  • Matrix. Often called multi-segment metering in books and magazines as every camera maker have their own name for it. The meter evaluates many small parts of the scene and compares it to a database to try to identify portrait, landscapes, backlit, etc and apply correction automatically.
You do use bracketing, it is just that you do it manually instead of letting the camera help out. Your three shots with varying compensation is exactly what the BKT function does.

BTW, where did the aquarium come from?
Went to oceanworld in Bangkok 2 days ago, I should have used spot weighted.

Your explaination is really good, will help me improve, thank you.

Regarding aquarium, most frame is suppose to be dark, it is the fish (in focus point) that I optimize for.