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D750 vs. D810


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83 replies to this topic

#1
M.Beier

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Im in a bit of a jam here, I was thinking of buying D750, however, the price gap from D750 to D810 in Taiwan is really insignificant, so I am considering D810 instead...

 

1) Any cons with D810, except for 5 vs. 6.5 FPS (which does not bother me*)

2) The -2 EV vs. -3 EV, how much does that mean, how low is the D810 really able to autofocus?

 

If I end up with D810, which CF should I get, I mean..... How fast does it have to be, not to become an issue for the cam? 

 

Pardon my rookie questions, hope you can guide me on the right path.



#2
Kenafein

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The D810 is the better choice, in my opinion.  I remember from another thread that you're into birding and the pixel pitch of the D810 will give you a slight edge.  The D810 also has a very large buffer.  I usually shoot birds at 3fps to conserve the limited buffer space on my D600.  The D810 can take 47 images in lossless 12bit mode vs 25 for the D750.  I think that more than makes up for the 1.5 FPS boost.  The D810 was probably the best, affordable, birding camera for Nikon until the D500 came out.  As for super low light autofocus, I don't think that feature will be used often enough to make it worth purchasing the camera.  



#3
Merco_61

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When it comes to body comparisons, I think Kenafein is spot on.

For CF cards, I would get either Sandisk Extreme and upwards or Lexar Professional 800X and upwards as the bus can handle in the region of 120 MB/s. I think the SD bus is UHS-II, so Lexar Professional 1000X makes sense for that slot.



#4
M.Beier

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When it comes to body comparisons, I think Kenafein is spot on.

For CF cards, I would get either Sandisk Extreme and upwards or Lexar Professional 800X and upwards as the bus can handle in the region of 120 MB/s. I think the SD bus is UHS-II, so Lexar Professional 1000X makes sense for that slot.

 

First of all, thanks both of ya!

The SD card, I will use UHS-I U3, it is in between I and II performance - Transcend 95/60MB/s 64GB - I have tested it serval times, and it performs slightly better then rated.

My thought is: JPG + Videos stored on this

RAW stored on CF, I guess that makes sense, no?

 

CF

Transcend CFast 2.0 64GB 515/160MB/s, but.... Will D810 operate with CFast 2.0? If not, I guess that card will be slow?

SanDisk Extreme (NOT Ultra Extreme*) 64 og 128GB 120/85MB/s

What would you pick?

 

Finally, heard bad about SD Cards at 128GB - instable, however, CF, is that safe?

Once again; Sorry for all the asking.



#5
M.Beier

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CFast 2.0 is physically different, wont fit, just checked...
Still can't tell if 120/85MB/s is a good choice, or the faster 160/150MB/s makes sense... Price is close to double.



#6
Merco_61

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CFast is a different standard and not compatible at all

85MB/s write and 120 MB/s read speed is the current Extreme card from SanDisk and one of the best choices there is. There is one class above, the Extreme PRO, but I don't think there is an advantage in this camera. It might be worth comparing prices to the Lexar Professional 800X as they are equivalent and both are recommended cards for the D810. Nikon only recommend SanDisk and Lexar CF cards for some reason. 

 

I have no experience with 128 GB cards, so I can't help you there. The only CF cards I have had problems with are Transcend and Kingston in multiple instances and one Ducati edition SanDisk that was notorious for being unreliable in one early batch. Getting replacement cards under warranty was no problems, but both the Transcend and the Kingston gave read faults after quite few cycles in the admittedly finicky D700. That is why I only use SanDisk or Lexar now.



#7
M.Beier

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Used the Transcend in my D5200, never any issues - actually only had issues with Samsung None Pro, the pro works well, just a little slow though...

 

SanDisk Extreme 120/85MB/s 128Gb 758 kr

http://www.edbpriser...id-8874158.aspx

 

Pretec x1000 150/100MB/s 128GB 1001 kr
http://www.edbpriser...id-7421307.aspx

 

SanDisk Extreme PRO 160/150MB/s 128GB 1251 kr

http://www.edbpriser...id-7508120.aspx



#8
TBonz

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I am pretty much the same as Merco as I stick with Lexar and SanDisk with the exception of a couple of Sony XQD cards that I have available "just in case".  Also keep in mind that the speed of the card is important when reading from the card / writing to your computer.  



#9
dcbear78

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I use a Toshiba CF card that is 150MB/s read and 120MB/s write and have no issue on my D810.

 

As for low light focus... The other night I was in a room only lit by a TV and could focus on anything, without any hesitation. Only time I have not been able to focus on anything is outside in complete darkness.

 

As for image quality, outside in natural light there is very little in it. D810 rules in a studio though. One of these is D810, the other D750 (different lens on each). Without looking I doubt you could make out the difference (excuse horrible wedding photos... not my best work). For what I do I love the D810. But I would have no hesitation owning a D750... And am considering it as a 2nd body (prefer D5 though but can't afford either).

20493899143_ce35d87cd9_z.jpg

Allan & Emma by Crew One Photography, on Flickr

20926859840_1ee571970b_z.jpg

Allan & Emma by Crew One Photography, on Flickr



#10
M.Beier

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Got a really nice deal on a D800E, second hand 15.000 shuttercount.

Price ~1500 USD'ish, couldnt resist.

 

Now the question is...

D810 works pretty well with UHS-II, how about D800E? The Lexar Professional 2000x 300/300MB/s is at a quite nice price in Europe...

 

Considering buying a 64GB card.... If it does not do UHS-II support, it should still be pretty snappy? If no UHS-II, a KomputerBay 128GB 1066X 160/155MB/s should do very well in addition.

 

Wasnt sure if another thread would be wise.

 

--- Nevermind that, extraordinary bad article that listed as D810 speeds while it was actually from a PC.... Sigh...

Seems UHS-I U3 cards make most sense still then.... :)



#11
M.Beier

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D800E

 

Instead of starting  a new thread, I'll ask in here.

 

QUAL button to me, is more annoying then practical - why would I want to change this on the fly....

 

However, FN and the other button next to lens, I don't use as well....

Im wondering, can I assign one of these to change around the number of focus points?

I finally figured how to change from AF-S go AF-C, however, would be awesome if I can change amount of focus points on 'hot key'...

 

An for more constant setting... On my D5200, I can see the 'area' of the focus points, while D800E, it just shows up as single point in the viewfinder and liveview too... Any fix to this?

 

Makes it a lot easier with sports.

 

Once again; Thank you for your patience with a green rookie.



#12
Merco_61

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The Qual button is quite useful for quickly changing to jpg when you start running out of buffer when shooting raw.

 

To change the number of focus points quickly, I think you have to put the setup menu at the top of the "My menu" menu and assign the Fn button to "Access top item in My Menu" with f4.

 

When it comes to the differences between the D5200 and d800E, someone else will have to chime in as I haven't used the D5xxx bodies in he field and isn't too familiar with them.



#13
M.Beier

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The Qual button is quite useful for quickly changing to jpg when you start running out of buffer when shooting raw.

 

To change the number of focus points quickly, I think you have to put the setup menu at the top of the "My menu" menu and assign the Fn button to "Access top item in My Menu" with f4.

 

When it comes to the differences between the F5200 and d800E, someone else will have to chime in as I haven't used the D5xxx bodies in he field and isn't too familiar with them.

Not in my case, I carry 3x 64GB + 2x 32GB spare + 1x 64GB CF + 1x 8GB CF

 

Thanks for the tip on assigning, any fix for the focus boxes in the display?



#14
OTRTexan

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If it's the same as the 810, you can change the af pattern the same as changing from single or continuous focus, except you rotate the front command wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

#15
TBonz

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That is what I was thinking, OTR...

 

And MBeier, Merco said buffer space, not card space...D8xx bodies don't have too big a buffer, especially shooting in RAW, so you won't be able to shoot for too many continuous shots before the buffer starts to slow you down...Changing over to JPEG will improve that issue and being able to do it quickly with the QUAL button makes it easy...



#16
Merco_61

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Jamie, as I understood the question, it was about the number of selectable focus points, not the different dynamic AF modes. Button + secondary wheel to select between single-point, the dynamic modes and 3d is a very fast and handy tool, though. I just wish they had made it possible to assign the focus point control to one of the programmable buttons.

 

Marc, as Tom said, i wrote and meant buffer space. 

 

As I am not familiar enough with the D5200 to know exactly how it behaves, I leave that question to someone with more experience. When I have rented a D800 or D810, I have a setup saved on a card that makes it as similar as possible to my D700 when it comes to AF, metering and controls. This means that I haven't used the modern niceties as much as I would have liked, but shooting two so similar bodies in parallel is confusing enough without adding extra complexity.



#17
M.Beier

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Sorry, I didnt read that properly, ok for buffer, it makes sense, thanks.

Yet I strongly doubt I'll use this feature much, even when birding.

 

Once again, sorry for all the questions, I have a flight this wednesday, 20:45 hrs, I will read manual and tips & technique during the flight, atleast thats my plan.

 

A)

I just googled "D800E AF mode", and got to Kenrockwell, seems it is about the AFS-S, AFS-C; single, D9 D21, D51, and basicly its the 4 modes within AF-C I'd like to be able to swap between, I will definantly give it a try as soon as possible as for the front wheel, I only used the 'rear' which swapped betweeen AFS-S and AFS-C D51.

 

B)

The other thing I meant, is if its possible to get 'all the points' in your selected mode shown in the viewfinder, hence; So your not in doubt on which 'D' you've picked....

I was hoping it would have a feature in D9 of which when you are selecting where in the viewfinder, the center would be red square, the others gray(or such), and once you press the shutter or AF-ON, it would turn red in the focus point camera selects.

 

C)

The body has a AF-motor, and all my lenses have AF-motor as well, will it ALWAYS select the lens? This is much faster in all cases, so it would be nice if I can make sure its not using the cameras...

 

D) 

My Tamron 70-200 F2.8 seems to have AF-Finetune at +16, isnt that extraordinary high? I made a huge mistake, as I was using AFS-C when testing... - I only had a very few min... :(

I am pretty confident AFS-S is the no brainer choice for AF-finetuning.

 

E)
As for pure speed read/write

Does clone CF and SD boost performance/speed over just using overflow? RAW on CF, JPEG on SD I pressume gives best performance.

 

Note/Comment:
Compared to my D5200, I really appreciate that the battery drain is HONEST, the D5200 it shows 100% full untill perhaps 10% left on battery, while D800E keeps decreasing little by little - however, I am shocked that 100-150 picture with VC (VR) off on my Tamron, has drained it close to 50%, but I guess that is due it being 2 years old - the battery that is.

Coment 2:
I made another setup failure... Makes no sense doing uncompressed for video 1080p.... Which one would you guys recomend? - Also note, this I wont use much, the cam isnt build for the purpose.



#18
Merco_61

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I'll start with your C, as I would need a body available to be certain about how things work for A and B. AF-S lenses don't have the screwdriver mechanical coupling, so it will always use the in-lens motor.

 

D) Some lenses need a big finetune, some don't. Single-shot with a good AF target is a good idea. My favourite target is a block of wood with a 2 mm music wire perpendicular to and in the center of the surface facing the camera. I use the wire pointer to make sure the target is square to the optical axle. After rigging that part, I remove the pointer and mount either a Siemens star or a lens testing chart to the block with some strong magnets. Another good idea is to set the rig up in sunlight rather than artificial light as the AF is optimized for full-spectrum light sources

 

E) Clone only makes a backup in-camera, no speed increase. As the CF cards usually are faster, storing the NEFs there is a logical move.



#19
M.Beier

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I'll start with your C, as I would need a body available to be certain about how things work for A and B. AF-S lenses don't have the screwdriver mechanical coupling, so it will always use the in-lens motor.

 

D) Some lenses need a big finetune, some don't. Single-shot with a good AF target is a good idea. My favourite target is a block of wood with a 2 mm music wire perpendicular to and in the center of the surface facing the camera. I use the wire pointer to make sure the target is square to the optical axle. After rigging that part, I remove the pointer and mount either a Siemens star or a lens testing chart to the block with some strong magnets. Another good idea is to set the rig up in sunlight rather than artificial light as the AF is optimized for full-spectrum light sources

 

E) Clone only makes a backup in-camera, no speed increase. As the CF cards usually are faster, storing the NEFs there is a logical move.

I only bought 64GB CF, 128GB would have made more sense, as RAW is double (or even more) of JPEG

 

Thanks for the tip on C and D, much appreciated.



#20
TBonz

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A - as I recall, the front dial changes between the amount of focus points while the back button changes between AF-S and AF-C, etc...Not sure about displaying the available points...