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Is the F3HP good for...

f3 nikon film 35mm f3hp hp analog f3t

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24 replies to this topic

#1
ddmvecj

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Is the F3HP good for people that don't wear glasses ?

 

I'm want to buy this camera because I found a really cheap deal, but I don't wear glasses and I heard that the viewfinder was better for that.

 

I have a friend that doesn't wear glasses and he has no issues with the viewfinder and he told me that he liked the brightness of it...

 

So I'm 80% ready to buy it, but I guess I just want to have more opinions on that.

 

Thank you :)



#2
Merco_61

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The high eyepoint finder gives an advantage to users without glasses too, as you don't have to position the eye so precisely to see the whole frame.



#3
Brian

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Users wearing glasses normally have a more difficult time with viewfinders, the DE-3 "High-Point" finder is great for eye-glass wearers. No glasses, no problem.

 

The Standard F3 with the DE-2 is also fine for users without glasses.



#4
ddmvecj

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Thank you for your replies !!

 

I just bought it from Amazon today...

 

I can't wait to have it in my hands !!!



#5
Brian

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Glad to hear it!

 

What lenses do you have... I just picked up a Vivitar 70~210/F3.5 Ai for $25... These were $400 lenses in the day of the F2 and F3.



#6
ddmvecj

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Glad to hear it!

 

What lenses do you have... I just picked up a Vivitar 70~210/F3.5 Ai for $25... These were $400 lenses in the day of the F2 and F3.

 I only have a 50mm 1.8 E Serie on my FM2n but I want to buy a 28mm as well...

 

I thought about buying the 28mm 2.8D AF to be able to use it with my D610 too, but I read that it wasn't the sharpest 28mm prime lens...

 

Do you know any prime that has an AF and an aperture ring ?



#7
Merco_61

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All AF and AF-D Nikkors have autofocus and an aperture ring. They aren't as nice to focus manually as the AI and AIS manual focus versions. They are often less sharp too, as there are compromises to move less glass for focusing.



#8
Brian

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The later 28/2.8 AF-D lens was improved optically over the original. I have the original version, and it is sharp enough stopped down a little.

 

Your D610 will use Ai and Ais lenses, manual focus of course. It will meter with them. The 28/2.8 Ais is supposed to be the sharpest 28 that Nikon made. I have the 28/2 manual focus lens- it is very, very good.



#9
Merco_61

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I have had and tried to like most versions of the 28 mm Nikkors. What I have found out is that I am not a 28 mm photographer. I agree that the AF-D is much superior to the AF and AF New versions. Of the older, manual lenses, the 2.8AIS is sharpest by far and the 2.0AI has the most pleasing transition between sharp and unsharp.

 

The forgotten, and therefore cheap gems among Nikkor wide angles are the 24/2.8AI and the very old 35/2 O- or O•C-Nikkor. The 35 mm lenses need to be AI-converted for use on AI or later bodies, but they are still easy to find converted and ready to use.



#10
Brian

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The 35/2 Nikkor-O, factory Ai converted- spends more time on my Df than any other wide-angle. The 20/3.5 Nikkor-UD, second place. I also have the 24/2.8, original Nikkor-N and the Ais.The Nikkor-N 24/2.8 was Nikon's first lens with "Close-Range-Correction", (CRC) ie a floating element. The 28/2 also used CRC from the first version. The 28/2.8 Ais added CRC.

 

35/2 Nikkor-O, wide-open on the Df.

 

13984573622_bf23006639_o.jpgLuray Caverns 

 

14242864308_7ca1b15465_o.jpgPilot-s Day 2014, Nikon Df 



#11
ddmvecj

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Thank you both for your explanations !! I need to think about this, but my first choice would be the 28mm f/2.8 AIS, even though it's not AF.

 

Maybe if I really want to buy a AF lens for my D610, I should just replace my Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 that I used for my D5100 with the FX version 16-28mm...



#12
ddmvecj

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Hey ! So I just received the F3 today (beautiful camera).

 

I have a question though...

 

I transferred the (few weeks old) batteries from my FM2n to the F3 just to test it and I was able to fire a few shots before it turns off and unables me to use the top shutter...

 

Now I'm worried because, when I transferred them back to my FM2n the batteries work perfectly...

 

Is it a technical problem ??

 

(With my F3) If I wait a moment, it works again for a few seconds and then turns off again.

 

Can you help me ??



#13
Merco_61

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In the FM2n, the battery only powers the meter. In the F3 it controls the shutter and powers the LCD in the finder too, so the current draw is higher.

What batteries do you use? Silver-oxide batteries (SR-44) work much better than alkalines (LR-44), but the best choice is Duracell CR1/3N lithium.

Do the contact areas in the camera look clean? Oxides here can be a factor in a camera that hasn't been used for a while. Another factor is contaminated contact areas if you use your fingers to put the batteries in. This extra resistance doesn't matter for the lower current in the FM2.



#14
ddmvecj

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In the FM2n, the battery only powers the meter. In the F3 it controls the shutter and powers the LCD in the finder too, so the current draw is higher.

What batteries do you use? Silver-oxide batteries (SR-44) work much better than alkalines (LR-44), but the best choice is Duracell CR1/3N lithium.

Do the contact areas in the camera look clean? Oxides here can be a factor in a camera that hasn't been used for a while. Another factor is contaminated contact areas if you use your fingers to put the batteries in. This extra resistance doesn't matter for the lower current in the FM2.

I can't tell what are my batteries exactly, but I'm pretty sure it was Duracell...

 

The contact areas are very clean in the camera.

 

I just cleaned the batteries because I indeed touched them with my fingers (I don't know if it's gonna change something).

 

I also thought that it could be because of the cold ? When I first took it in my hands, the camera was really cold... Now I don't know if the inside is still a bit cold (the outside looks ok) and needs more time to warm up before starting to work properly...



#15
Merco_61

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Duracell makes all three kinds... The lithium battery is a single one that replaces the two ordinary cells. I would let the camera warm up and then put new SR-44 cells in and see how it goes. At least here in Sweden, SR-44 button cells can be found in supermarkets, convenience stores and gas stations as they are the most common small batteries. The cheaper LR-44 cells are not as common.



#16
Brian

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"Just to be sure"- there is a switch around the film advance/shutter release that needs to be turned "on". A red dot is uncovered when it is on. Very different from the other Nikon cameras where moving the film advance lever to the ready position turns the camera on.

 

Check the voltage on the batteries, I have had my F3 quit on me. Fortunately, I had the MF-14 data back and used the batteries from the databack for the camera.



#17
ddmvecj

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Duracell makes all three kinds... The lithium battery is a single one that replaces the two ordinary cells. I would let the camera warm up and then put new SR-44 cells in and see how it goes.

Do you think the Lithium battery is the best option for low temperature then ??

 

 

"Just to be sure"- there is a switch around the film advance/shutter release that needs to be turned "on". A red dot is uncovered when it is on. Very different from the other Nikon cameras where moving the film advance lever to the ready position turns the camera on.

 

Check the voltage on the batteries, I have had my F3 quit on me. Fortunately, I had the MF-14 data back and used the batteries from the databack for the camera.

Yes I switched on the camera. As I said, everything was working perfectly but only for a very short period of time...

 

What kind of voltage should I buy ? And do you know why your F3 quit on you ??



#18
Brian

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The nominal voltage from the batteries is 3v. The Lithium is the best option. My F3 quit on me as the batteries were old, I forget what the voltage had dropped to, was several years ago. The MF-14 uses two MS-76, same as the camera- so I just moved them from the databack to the camera and all was well. 

 

If you pick up an MD-4 motor, the batteries in the motor will power the camera. They are cheap these days.

 

One other test- is the shutter working using the manual release? The F3 will fire at 1/90th without a battery.



#19
ddmvecj

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The nominal voltage from the batteries is 3v. The Lithium is the best option. My F3 quit on me as the batteries were old, I forget what the voltage had dropped to, was several years ago. The MF-14 uses two MS-76, same as the camera- so I just moved them from the databack to the camera and all was well. 

 

If you pick up an MD-4 motor, the batteries in the motor will power the camera. They are cheap these days.

Okay thank you !!

 

I'm not really interested by the MD-4 since I don't want it to be too big (and heavy), so I'm gonna try to find a Lithium battery and see what happens...

 

I really hope this is because of the cold though because it would means that the camera is ok...

 

Thank you for your help once again guys !



#20
Brian

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I just tested my F3HP- it would not power up with 2.7v. New battery- works fine.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: f3, nikon, film, 35mm, f3hp, hp, analog, f3t