7 replies to this topic

[flashinthepan]

Would anyone please comment on what may be causing my pictures to show up all washed out like the attached on an intermittent basis?

 

I use the Nikon 5200 in Auto mode. I am sick over this because another set of pictures is ruined. I don't know enough yet to figure it out so any comments would be appreciated.

 

Lens: 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6

Focal Length: 55.00 mm (in 35/mm: 55 mm)

Exposure: 1/60 sec;  f/5.6;  ISO 3200; 

 

Thanks!!

Attached Thumbnails

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[yauman]

Did the on-board flash fired?  By the look of the well defined shadow line under the arm, looked like it did!  Looking at the settings, at 1/60, F/5.6 and ISO 3200 there's no need for the flash to fire.

 

Remember this is NOT a Point & Shoot camera - so even in Auto model you cannot treat it like a P & S camera.  

Here's a couple of things to look at:

1. Check what your exposure mode is set at - looks like it may be set to "spot" and the spot you picked for it is dark so the camera went all out to get as much light as possible - then the flash came on and over-exposed the picture.  For general use, set the exposure mode to "Center Weighed" or "Matrix" mode.

2. TURN OFF THE FLASH - just set to no flash mode - you'll get much better pictures in general.  The on-board flash is way too small, has short range and will cast very harsh shadows - and in most instances screw up the picture.  

[flashinthepan]

Thanks Yauman --

 

Yes, the flash did fire on that previous shot. I believe your suggestions are applicable and will check into changing the settings.  Right now, I realize I am more dangerous with a real camera in my hand than my iphone, but I am too frustrated to be ashamed. I really appreciate your help to get over this learning curve - perhaps more of a canyon for me.  

 

There is a similar symptom that occurs periodically when I don't use the flash. In these cases, the aperture (or something) seems to be open for so long that the picture just turns white. Exposure d=setting below is 0.5 which accounts for about the time it takes for the camera to take the picture. When I hear this long delay, I know immediately that the picture is washed out. I am not sure what happens to correct it (power-cycle, dial various settings, but eventually it corrects itself and the pictures come out fine.

 

Below is the camera info, detailed EXIF and sample of this symptom:

 

I would appreciate any additional comment.

 

Thanks!

 

flash

 

 

Lens AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G

Focal Length: 55.00 mm

Exposure: 0.5 sec; f/5.6; ISO 3200; 

Image Size: 4496 x 3000

Flash: Did not fire

 

 

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Attached Thumbnails

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[Afterimage]

Exposure: 1/60 sec;  f/5.6;  ISO 3200

 

 

There's the problem right there ... 1/60 of a second at ISO 3200 with a flash. ISO 100 would have been fine for a daytime, indoor fill-flash. ISO 3200 is like 5x more sensitive than ISO 100... add in the long shutter speed of 1/60th and you get a very over exposed image.  ISO 3200 might have been OK for that shot without a flash but with the flash it over powered the image.

 

Remember, when you use a flash the camera has to estimate how much light there will be on the subject as it's illuminated by the flash. It meters off of ambient light, guesses how much light the flash will add, and then compensates. Cameras have gotten very very good at this but they can be tricked. I'm pretty certain this is what happened to you here.

 

 

 

Exposure: 0.5 sec; f/5.6; ISO 3200; 

Your second shot without the flash ... ISO3200 and a 1/2 second shutter speed was the problem there. 0.5sec is a long exposure, 1/100th is a "typical" shutter speed... 0.5seconds is 50x longer... add in the high 3200 ISO and your going to over expose and have a blurry photo because of camera shake (it's hard to handhold a shot for that long. I've got a steady hand and I can do 1/8 of a second with a VR lens... sometimes LOL)

[yauman]

Ok, Afterimage pointed out the obvious problem with the way the image was exposed - way over exposed.  If it does that consistently in Auto mode, you've got a problem with the camera but before you send it back to Nikon, try this:

 

1. Perform a "Factory Reset" on the camera.  I don't remember the sequence but it's in the menu - one of the last item.  This will clear any inadvertent setting that may be done on the camera to offset its exposure.

 

2. Set your camera to M-Mode - yes fully manual and use the light meter inside the viewfinder. This will test if you have a light meter problem.  In an indoor setting, set ISO at 800.  Set shutter at 1/60.  Now adjust the aperture (F-stop) until the lightmeter "needle" is in the center - that's the correct exposure.  Shoot.  If the image is still over exposed, your light meter in the camera is bad - it's the same light meter used by the CPU of your camera in Auto mode.

 

3. If it's ok in the Manual mode, your light meter is good, now see if the CPU is good.  Set camera to P-mode - this is the semi auto mode.  Turn command dial to get an ISO reading of 400 to 800 and watch the shutter speed as you turn - you want the shutter speed to be faster than 1/30 sec.  Shoot.  If the image is still over exposed, you got a CPU program.

 

Finally, FORGET the Auto Mode - really seriously!  I work in a camera store and have never seen a Nikon DSLR that can take properly exposed pictures with it in Auto mode. The most awful feature is that it will pop up the flash when there's really not need to - when there's enough parameters left for the camera to push to not have to flash. Whoever designed the computer algorithm for their Full Auto mode must not be a photographer!!!  Use P mode if you must. But learn to use the Aperture Priority A-mode.  Aperture controls depth of field of your focus and that's how you get good pictures.

 

Hope this helps. 

[flashinthepan]

Thank you for the analysis and tips, Yauman and Afterimage!!

 

I am working through the 3 steps above and have performed a reset and taking shots in Manual mode. So far no repeat incidents like those above. I understand your points about the flash and realize this will help me become more family with how to use the Aperture.

 

The 5200 does not seem to have a light meter "needle" in the viewfinder, but going through the steps you provided has helped me become more familiar with the camera. I bought this camera to get away from the look of point and shoot photos so I am looking forward to the learning process. I am very relieved that the camera may not have a mechanical problem because the pilot error can be fixed more easily.

 

Everything seems to be working since the reset and operating in Manual mode Thanks again!!

[TBonz]

It has a light meter - not a needle.  It should be along the bottom (right I believe) in the viewfinder.  As I recall it is a scale where middle is where you want to be (one line).  Left is under-exposed and right is over-exposed.  I typically shoot slightly under-exposed with my cameras in my typical shooting situations - you will need to try different settings and remember the meter reading to see what works best for your normal situations. 

[Afterimage]

Glad we were able to help!