4 replies to this topic

[dbmcclus]

I have several good older AI prime Nikor lenses from the late 70's. I understand they will work with my D3200 but will have to use manual focus and manual mode. Will I change the Fstops with the camera wheel or with the Fstops settings on the lens? If I am suppose to use the camera to select the aperture, then does it matter what Fstop is dialed on the lens itself?
Thanks.

[dubiousone]

With your 3200 and AI/AI-S lenses, your camera can't sense the aperture. No big deal. It will control whatever aperture you set on the lens and when the shutter goes, the camera will work the lens to that aperture. You'll have to be in manual and select both shutter and aperture manually. (Aperture on the lens) Focusing is a bit of a pain, what you do is press the shutter release halfway while adjusting focus. When the green in focus dot lights, stop turning. Sometimes frustrating because it has to be dead on. (With film cameras with a split prism focus screen its fast and easy and you can be a little off and still have a sharp photo, not so with Mr DSLR, LOL)

 

Since your camera will not meter you could use "Sunny 16. Set the shutter to the ISO and the aperture according to the light. Sunny F16, partly cloudy F11, cloudier (LOL) F8, cloudy F5.6, dawn/dusk F4. This actually works and its what film people like me used when not all cameras HAD meters!

 

Or, get a good handheld like a gossen luna pro, sekonic or gossen digisix which will fit on the hotshoe of your camera! There are some real good older meters out there used but, not all are the same. Some aren't all that accurate and some are VERY. I'd stick with a new type to ease your frustration.

[Merco_61]

You have to set the aperture on the lens and use the camera in full manual. By full manual I mean all three parameters, Shutter speed, Aperture and ISO. Forgetting to turn Auto ISO off *will* lead to a very frustrated photographer...

 

Focusing will not be easy because of the lower contrast of a pentamirror viewfinder compared to the pentaprisms in the more expensive bodies. Use the green dot and learn by trial and error how far you have still to turn the focusing ring for optimal focus when the light turns on.

 

You don't need an external meter, just take a picture and check the histogram. Adjust exposure so that you get the curve as far to the right as you can without blowing your highlights. This will minimize noise.

[dbmcclus]

Thanks to all for the replies. great info! Yes, I am familiar with the Sunny 16 rule, used it "back in the day". BTW, there is a free app for iphone called Honey 16 Rule. You select outside light conditions such as sunny, select your ISO and it gives you your Fstop and shutter spped. Does all the conversions for you if you want to change shutter speed or apertures. Did not know about focus using the green light and did not think about turning off the Auto ISO. I have a Nikor 35mm prime, 105mm prime, and the very sharp 55mm macro with extension ring. Sad to hear about the touchy focus, was looking forward to some nice macro shots. Will have to experiment. Thanks again everyone!

[Merco_61]

Late seventies sound like the least difficult versions to use. What versions are they? The late AI versions got the first type of the NIC coatings that were to live on up to today in some lenses, so they handle adverse lighting situations admirably. They also still have the long focus throw that make them the easiest to focus precisely.