I ordered the D3300, and , acording to amazon, the regular 50mm lens will not fit. ...
I'm not sure if that is true or not, but I would like a nice prime lens to compliment the lens that came with the kit.
I ordered the D3300, and , acording to amazon, the regular 50mm lens will not fit. ...
I'm not sure if that is true or not, but I would like a nice prime lens to compliment the lens that came with the kit.
The 50 mm D lenses will meter, but not auto focus. The 50 mm G lenses will work fully. The important thing to look for in buying lenses for the bodies without a focus motor is AF-S (or sometimes written as AFS) in the lens descriptions.
AF-S lenses work fully, but all older lenses are crippled on D3xxx and D5xxx bodies.
There is no focus motor in the D3300 itself, it need lenses with motors in the lens.
Next question is: Do you need a fast normal lens or a portrait and short tele? The 35/1.8 works very well on a D3300 as a normal lens, that is as the 50 mm lenses worked on film. A 50 works like a short tele lens, and the AF-S 50/1.8G or 1.4G are nice choices for portraits and some live music etc. This is what Ron meant with his comment about the 35 being a better choice as a first prime lens. There is a *long* thread about getting a first prime lens for the beginning photographer here.
/Peter
I was looking for a good prime lens for portraits. Not that i NEED one, but would just like one.
Im leaning towards the 35mm i think. So the 50mm has a WIDER veiw than the 35 ?
On your 3300 a 35mm lens has a wider field of view than a 50mm lens. A 50mm lens would be a very short telephoto lens on the D3300 and should make a nice portrait lens. If that's what you want, a portrait lens, then one of the 50mm primes would be a better choice. Just be sure that the lens you get is marked as an AF-S lens.
A rule of thumb regarding lens focal lengths...
lower numbers = a wider field of view and less magnification.
higher numbers = a narrower field of view and more magnification.
--Ron
The 50 has a narrower field of view than the 35 and works more like a classic portrait lens. A 35 works quite well for portraits as long as you don't try to make head- and shoulders portraits, but the 50 makes it easier to get enough distance between you and your subject to get a good perspective.
The nomenclature is, from wide to narrow:
Superwide, wide, normal, short tele, medium tele and long tele
I hate to be a flip flopper, but how many people have manual only lens on their camera and find them just fine or more fun ?
After doing some more reading, I'm wondering if the $99 nikon 50mm lens will do me just fine, or if I'll be kicking myself wondering why I didn't spend the extra $100 for the af-s version?
I should probably be posting in the beginner section btw.
You don't need autofocus for portraiture, so it's up to you whether or not you want to spend the extra cash. I currently only own 3 Nikon lenses and only 2 of them are AF. I have no trouble shooting with my one MF lens.
I hate to be a flip flopper, but how many people have manual only lens on their camera and find them just fine or more fun ?
After doing some more reading, I'm wondering if the $99 nikon 50mm lens will do me just fine, or if I'll be kicking myself wondering why I didn't spend the extra $100 for the af-s version?
I should probably be posting in the beginner section btw.
Personally, I would spend the extra money and get the newer AF-S version. Your new camera was designed to use that type of lens.
--Ron
The finder in the D3300 is optimized for AF and does not snap into focus when focusing manually like the more expensive Nikons. It can be done, but it is not very enjoyable.
I'd suggest the auto-focus...I did LOTS of photography before auto-focus - would not want to live without it now!
If you take the lens focal length (35 or 50), multiply by 1.5 to get the effective focal length with a DX sensor (35 becomes 52.5 and 50 becomes 75).
Thanks everyone. I ordered the 35mm af-s lens for about $209. I should be getting theD3300 in the mail tomorrow with the kit lens. Ill post some pictures when i do.
And so it begins. NAS is a disease many of us have, isn't it nice?
The first part of this post is very much tongue-in-cheek, I think you made a wise decision starting out with a normal lens as your first prime.
NAS as a TLA can be found and explained at the good resource NAS - Nikon Acquisition Syndrome (slang; urge to buy Nikon equipment or accessories) | AcronymFinder.
And so it begins. NAS is a disease many of us have, isn't it nice?
The first part of this post is very much tongue-in-cheek, I think you made a wise decision starting out with a normal lens as your first prime.
NAS as a TLA can be found and explained at the good resource NAS - Nikon Acquisition Syndrome (slang; urge to buy Nikon equipment or accessories) | AcronymFinder.
It could be worse. At least we aren't talking about sailboats!
--Ron
It could be worse. At least we aren't talking about sailboats!
--Ron
Or my favourite materials driven sport, F5B electric gliders (aeromodelling). I don't know how many speed controllers at $600 a pop I have burnt, and motors at $500. The battery packs at $300 were competitive for about 20 starts, then they had to be downgraded for training. A new mold when I came up with something new for wings or fuselage were about $1000 each. A prop. mold took about a week to make and cost $200-300. The lay-ups and radio hardware were quite cheap in comparison. Not as expensive as sailboats, but...