30 replies to this topic

[MIM]

What software do you use to convert your raw files? The files from these old DSLRs benefit more than most from a really good raw converter. It might be worth your time to try out Photo Ninja or Capture one. These applications get more DR and lower noise levels than most at high ISO values.

 

What lenses do you use? Low light calls for fast primes or the f/1.8 zooms from Sigma shot more or less wide open.

 

I don't know if I did this right, but here goes.

 

Album: Concerts

1 images

0 comments

 

info: f/4.5 1/10 55mm ISO 3200

 

This is a close up at a Black Uhuru reggae concert.

 

Since I came here and read the information regarding setting ranges in low light, I have returned to this venue and made some tweeking, so I have to share those later.

 

Thank you!

[Merco_61]

 

I don't know if I did this right, but here goes.

 

 

 

info: f/4.5 1/10 55mm ISO 3200

 

 

If you had shot with a 50/1.8 wide open instead, you could have kept the ISO as-is and used 1/50 instead if 1/10, or you could have lowered the ISO a bit with a correspondently longer exposure.

[MIM]

If you had shot with a 50/1.8 wide open instead, you could have kept the ISO as-is and used 1/50 instead if 1/10, or you could have lowered the ISO a bit with a correspondently longer exposure.

I do not understand the triangle concept as yet, but slowly getting somewhere with it.  I need to figure out the lowest f stop for this lens too.  I will take these settings you've provided and try them out and make adjustments. 

 

P.S.  I do not use my laptop much for anything photography-wise.  I use my cell phone and I use these free apps currently Lightroom, snapseed, and photoshop Express for editing and putting my name on the photos.  I also use LightX for some editing, but mostly to put my logo on photos as well.

 

Thank you!

[Merco_61]

The right processing can make wonders.

 

This link should take you to post 32 in a thread about shooting in insanely low light.

How about an insanely low light challenge? - Page 2 - Mini-Challenges, Member Contests, and Games - NikonForums.com

These three were all shot with a D300 and processed from .NEF in Capture NX-D, the same files through ACR were a noisy mess.

[MIM]

If you had shot with a 50/1.8 wide open instead, you could have kept the ISO as-is and used 1/50 instead if 1/10, or you could have lowered the ISO a bit with a correspondently longer exposure.

I do not understand the "...50/1.8 wide open..." concept as yet.  Getting there though.  i am not sure is this lense can do that (still digging for clues).  On M setting, the lowest f number I saw was f/3.8.  I do leave the ISO as is and moved the shutter speed to 1/50, which caught some good pictures.

I did changes the light setting to Vivid (I think) and the colour was clear.

I learning to make changes by using the knobs on the screen.

 

Thanks!

The right processing can make wonders.

 

This link should take you to post 32 in a thread about shooting in insanely low light.

How about an insanely low light challenge? - Page 2 - Mini-Challenges, Member Contests, and Games - NikonForums.com

These three were all shot with a D300 and processed from .NEF in Capture NX-D, the same files through ACR were a noisy mess.

Awesome! 

I did check it out briefly.  I will return. 

I noticed that my pictures are both in JPEG and NEF. 

I am unable to edit them on the free versions of Lr, Snapseed, and other free editors that I am using.

 

Thanks!

[Merco_61]

I do not understand the "...50/1.8 wide open..." concept as yet.  Getting there though.  i am not sure is this lense can do that (still digging for clues).  On M setting, the lowest f number I saw was f/3.8.  I do leave the ISO as is and moved the shutter speed to 1/50, which caught some good pictures.

I did changes the light setting to Vivid (I think) and the colour was clear.

I learning to make changes by using the knobs on the screen.

 

Thanks!

Awesome! 

I did check it out briefly.  I will return. 

I noticed that my pictures are both in JPEG and NEF. 

I am unable to edit them on the free versions of Lr, Snapseed, and other free editors that I am using.

 

Thanks!

To get better results in low light, you need a faster lens with a larger maximum aperture. The kit lens you have is good, but it is a slow lens. The maximum aperture varies between 3.5 and 4.5 depending on what focal length you use. The numbers are fractions, so a smaller number is a larger opening.

 

The 50/1.8 I mentioned is a cheap way to get a fast(ish) lens that works well for concert gigs.

 

If you have a computer available with a reasonably current Windows or MacOS version on it, Nikon's own raw converter/basic editor is free to download on their support site for your region.

[MIM]

To get better results in low light, you need a faster lens with a larger maximum aperture. The kit lens you have is good, but it is a slow lens. The maximum aperture varies between 3.5 and 4.5 depending on what focal length you use. The numbers are fractions, so a smaller number is a larger opening.

 

The 50/1.8 I mentioned is a cheap way to get a fast(ish) lens that works well for concert gigs.

 

If you have a computer available with a reasonably current Windows or MacOS version on it, Nikon's own raw converter/basic editor is free to download on their support site for your region.

 

Yes! A faster lens with a larger maximum aperture is a MUST.  I met with a photographer and he said the same thing.  I will check out the camera store for 50/1.8 lenes, etc. 

I found out that it works best to put the camera on a tripod.

 

So much information being absorbed...Thank you!

[TBonz]

If you get your shutter speed up then the tripod won't be required.  It can still help out but you won't need to use it.

[MIM]

If you get your shutter speed up then the tripod won't be required.  It can still help out but you won't need to use it.

It is the lens that I have and the amount of light available at the events, which are indoors.  I will continue to mess with it until I get a better lens.  Much appreciated.

[MIM]

To get better results in low light, you need a faster lens with a larger maximum aperture. The kit lens you have is good, but it is a slow lens. The maximum aperture varies between 3.5 and 4.5 depending on what focal length you use. The numbers are fractions, so a smaller number is a larger opening.

 

The 50/1.8 I mentioned is a cheap way to get a fast(ish) lens that works well for concert gigs.

 

If you have a computer available with a reasonably current Windows or MacOS version on it, Nikon's own raw converter/basic editor is free to download on their support site for your region.

Update!

I went to the camera store and tried out the 50/1.8 and I will get it when I have the funds.  Also, they did share their knowledge about the camera, the type of lenses, and the Triangle. 

 

I am working on using the Shurtter Priority and let the camera do the rest.  I will put some pictures up when I can.

 

Thanks again.

[MIM]

Hello, everyone!

 

I am checking in with a little update on the D90 and the low light matters.  I am not sure if I have mentioned trying out the 50mm 1.4, that was what they had at the time, but it was ok because I got to try it out.

 

Since then, I have been navigating the settings and features more and it seems that Shutter Priority is the best for the atmosphere that I am working with currently.  I am getting better at in-camera focus to get a better quality shot.

 

I now have a Nikkor-SC Auto 1:1.4 f=50mm that I tried last night (11.26.19 --- pictures soon).  I was instructed that I need to be in Manual to make the needed corrections.  I will be researching this for sure. 

 

Looking forward to read your responses.  I appreciate your expert time.