I don't know, I believe ''super moons'' change their position and dates every year. They're best captured either rising or setting, a half hour or so window to capture them.
The moon and stars require some experimenting to get good photos with just a few general rules. The moon is easier, and if your steady, no tripod needed, just a long focal length lens and a camera, (I use a tripod and shutter release cable). Prepare to vary things! Start with some basic settings and work from there, ''generally'', match the ISO and shutter speed sorta close, always expose for the moon itself, spot metering works best, and choose a mid aperture setting and manual focus. I fire a lot of shots at it on the rise and am changing my camera settings along the way. It's nearly impossible to get a detailed moon AND any detail on earth in the same shot, they're just too far apart as to the settings for either. If you capture a backdrop, your moon is going to be just a bright detail-less ball in the sky, capture a good moon and you probably won't have any detail on earth. You can combine a good moon with a good night shot in post though.
Stars, the Milky Way, or other features in the night sky require more planning, (what's visible, and when) along with more and better stuff! The camera used being the least of your concerns. In FX, a GOOD fast 14-24mm lens is best, sharp with the least amount of distortion at the edges as possible, (the stars at the edges will look like triangles with a lens with distortion). A tripod is NEEDED as your exposures will range from around 15 seconds to almost 30. A remote or cable release unless you want to mess with the camera's delay shutter release. And lastly, a clear night and place where light polution is minimal. Use a mid ISO setting and a fast f-stop, focus and try several exposure lengths. One of the keys here is knowing where in the sky to shoot, a star map is vital for this. Usually in the Northern hemisphere the best times to shoot are late Oct. to early Feb. You can get a Equatorial Camera Tracking System that will allow LONG exposures as the earth turns, but they're rather expensive, otherwise exposures are limited to under 30 seconds because of earth's rotation. Following a few general rules, pictures of the Milky Way are easy to shoot, and if you wish to include a foreground a good flashlight is all that's needed, light paint near trees, buildings, objects, etc. while your exposure runs, just keep the light moving on your foreground. Like anything, practice and experimentation are the keys. Speaking of which, I plan to try a few longer focal length lenses this year. I don't know how it's going to turn out, but nothing ventured...