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Nikon FM differences


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6 replies to this topic

#1
jxhorton

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I had a new FM back in the late 1970s, until it was stolen in a house burglary in the early 80s.  I still miss that camera and have been looking to get another one.  A lot of ads I see include the camera's serial number.  I have read that the first digit of the number indicates the market in which it was originally sold, 2 for Japan, 3 for USA etc.  Is there any difference?  I know that sometimes it can matter as far as warranty coverage but with a 40 year old camera, that won't matter.  Are there any reasons now where it could?

 

thanks.

 

-Jim



#2
tonyzoc

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I had a new FM back in the late 1970s, until it was stolen in a house burglary in the early 80s. I still miss that camera and have been looking to get another one. A lot of ads I see include the camera's serial number. I have read that the first digit of the number indicates the market in which it was originally sold, 2 for Japan, 3 for USA etc. Is there any difference? I know that sometimes it can matter as far as warranty coverage but with a 40 year old camera, that won't matter. Are there any reasons now where it could?

thanks.

-Jim

this video might be of some help...
https://youtu.be/OLsKNrdgoNs

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

#3
jxhorton

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Thanks, Tony.  That does help.

 

-Jim



#4
Merco_61

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The main reason to look for a post-1979 version is if you want to run it with the MD-11 or MD-12 motor drive.
When either a Motor Drive MD-11 or MD-12 was attached, the switch was supposed to be turned after attaching the motor drive but BEFORE turning on the MD-11 or MD-12. Rotating this concentric switch to the ON position after the motor drive had been mounted and then turned ON would immediately lock up the camera, rendering the camera inoperable, and it was then necessary to remove the MD-11 or MD-12 from the camera base, and to touch the motor drive's exposed contacts with a penny to clear the jam caused by the out-of-synch camera/motor combination.

 

The last version of the shutter release lock, integrated in the film-advance lever, is the same way it works on the FM-2, FE-2 and the FA, making it easier to switch between cameras.



#5
tonyzoc

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The main reason to look for a post-1979 version is if you want to run it with the MD-11 or MD-12 motor drive.
When either a Motor Drive MD-11 or MD-12 was attached, the switch was supposed to be turned after attaching the motor drive but BEFORE turning on the MD-11 or MD-12. Rotating this concentric switch to the ON position after the motor drive had been mounted and then turned ON would immediately lock up the camera, rendering the camera inoperable, and it was then necessary to remove the MD-11 or MD-12 from the camera base, and to touch the motor drive's exposed contacts with a penny to clear the jam caused by the out-of-synch camera/motor combination.

The last version of the shutter release lock, integrated in the film-advance lever, is the same way it works on the FM-2, FE-2 and the FA, making it easier to switch between cameras.

Also, the easier access to the focus screen could be a big benefit ... especially if, like me, you have an FM with a dirty viewfinder. At some point I'm going to send my FM out for a cla with a FE screen with the tab ground off for them to switch out.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

#6
Brian

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49605149571_b4a5b5e938_b.jpgNikon FM w Kiron35~135 by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

 

This is the later one- no meter on/off around the shutter release, controlled only by the advance lever.

 

SN starts with a "3". I had to check after this thread.

 

Nikon Trivia: The FM uses Gallium Arsenide Photocells, as opposed to Silicon Photocells. No need for the Blue Filter to block IR, the FM cells are much closer to the visible spectrum. The Konica FS-1 and Pentax MX also used Gallium Arsenide Photocells.



#7
jxhorton

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Thanks for all the input on the FM model.  I found one online and it arrived today, a later version with the '3' serial number, complete with an MD-12 motor drive. I am anxious to run some film through it. The one thing that I noticed right away is that the film advance lever needs to be 'half cocked' not only to turn on the light meter, which I expected, but also to fire the shutter, which I think I had heard but had forgotten.  I was a bit worried at first what was wrong when it wouldn't cock or dry fire with the advance lever in.  That may take some getting used to  My original FM was obviously the older generation.

 

stay tuned...