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Got an F4e


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6 replies to this topic

#1
tonyzoc

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I started using and collecting Nikon film cameras not quite 2 years ago and I'm up to 19 bodies and 29 lenses including 2 F1 and 3 F2, and got my first F4 this week. I love this camera. You can mount anything in F mount on it and get matrix metering. I don't mind the size and weight. 5705af857f1c6ecbd0351cd9f8b83990.jpg

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#2
Merco_61

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When in the production run was it made? The used and abused one I have kept is #2242xxx and has needed quite a few of the running changes done as it still had the screen-printed knobs and the 100000 exposure bug when new. The LCD-s are beginning to bleed, but they are still more or less readable. The reason I kept this one is that it is the first I bought and I have shot around 5600 rolls of mostly HP5 through it.

 

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#3
Larryc001

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Good choice. I am beginning to believe Ken Rockwell’s opinion that the F4 was the best film camera that Nikon ever made. I recently purchased a $20 body from eBay which was missing a lot of parts. So I went ahead and bought an MF-23 back and an MB-23 battery case. It had already a DP-20 but no screen so I still need one of those. So being ocd and crazy as hell I went ahead and bought another complete body with MB-20 battery. I haven’t received it yet. Once I get one working I am going to get a roll of film out of the fridge and shoot some. Can’t wait.

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#4
tonyzoc

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When in the production run was it made? The used and abused one I have kept is #2242xxx and has needed quite a few of the running changes done as it still had the screen-printed knobs and the 100000 exposure bug when new. The LCD-s are beginning to bleed, but they are still more or less readable. The reason I kept this one is that it is the first I bought and I have shot around 5600 rolls of mostly HP5 through it.

gallery_1251_413_39056.jpg

My serial is 2320XXX. I don't know what the 100,000 exposure bug is... I only have a little LCD bleed in the exposure comp window, so not bad overall. My DP-20 has some marks, but is fully functional. I only paid $144 plus shipping from Japan... so around $180 total. Not bad for the price. I've put one roll of HP5+ through it, and just put a roll of Fuji 200 in it. I'm going to be developing the HP5+ soon... looking forward to seeing the result... hopefully high speeds aren't capping or any other problems.

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#5
tonyzoc

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When in the production run was it made? The used and abused one I have kept is #2242xxx and has needed quite a few of the running changes done as it still had the screen-printed knobs and the 100000 exposure bug when new. The LCD-s are beginning to bleed, but they are still more or less readable. The reason I kept this one is that it is the first I bought and I have shot around 5600 rolls of mostly HP5 through it.

gallery_1251_413_39056.jpg

Hey thanks so much for your reply. I looked into this bug and found out what it is... the aperture level doesn't go down all the way. My camera has this issue. Luckily it is still returnable. I will buy a replacement though and it will be a high serial number > 242xxxx with no bleed.

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#6
tonyzoc

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The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

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#7
tonyzoc

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The F4e was shipped back and I got a F4s with ser no. 261xxxx and no LCD bleed. The price was $30 more and it works fine and is in pretty nice condition.

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just a follow up to this... I had the F4s for a week, on my 2nd roll, and sitting at my desk it slips out of my hand while changing lenses and hits the hardwood floor just near the right strap lug. The impact put a small crack in the right hand top plate and knocked the frame counter window out of place. As a result of this the frame counter dial doesn't turn, and when I put a fresh roll on it never moves off of -2... so every time I hit the shutter button it winds 3 frames, thinking it's not loaded .. though the rewind knob is spinning. I took it to a local shop for an estimate and they told me it would be a minimum $250 if repairable and I should just keep it for parts since everything else is still working. Well since I have the DP-20 and MB-20 and 21 I went and got another body (258xxxx) for $100 shipped. Then I watched a Japanese disassembly where he removed that top plate, and figured what do I have to loose. So I was able to get the top plate off and found the counter frame bent and clear window popped out. I straighten the counter frame part and reglued the window, reassembled and everything work great. Saved myself $250, but now I have 2 F4. So I spent another $100 and got a WL finder. Crazy huh.

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