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Posted 11 January 2019 - 07:30 AM
I often use either a grey card or a colour chart (ColorChecker) to profile the light. I still let the camera use Auto WB, but shoot the card now and then as the light changes. I then correct the WB in batches in post. correcting WB in-camera works, but isn't necessary if you shoot raw and have a raw converter or even a pixel editor that doesn't suck.
Posted 11 January 2019 - 07:47 AM
In challenging lighting conditions you can measure the white balance (and exposure) in camera to the gray card. It ensures the card will be "gray", there will be no color cast on it. If the lighting changes in the scene, then you can choose a point to be "natural", but it won't solve the problem coming from the lighting differences.
If you shot in raw and have a photo about the gray card you can adjust the white balance in post production also.
For exposure metering the card can give you a similar reference as a light meter, it's independent from your subjects color. Your palm is also a pretty good target for exposure testing, just good to know.
I rarely use gray cards, I'am adjusting the white balance in post production in general, but it can save time from post if you shoot a whole session in the same lighting with preset white balance.