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sync focus and flash modes between view finder and live screen

focus viewfinders

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12 replies to this topic

#1
bcreighton@gmx.com

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I'm fairly new to the D7200.  I'm having issues with the viewfinder focus not matching the live screen focus and the viewfinder focus mode is using flash whereas the other is not.  I cannot find any information about how to sync the two.  I'd love ANY help or pointer that can help me sync the two.  The live screen mode focus is accurate.  The viewfinder pictures are always blurry.

 

Thanks,

 

Barry



#2
Bengan

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Live view and viewfinder AF use different methods. Live view should always be accurate, while viewfinder AF very often needs fine tuning. Every camera body and lens combination is unique, so don't expect one calibration to be universal. Have a look in this thread:  Auto Focus Fine Tuning Suggestions - D7100 - Technical Troubleshooting - NikonForums.com

 

I don't understand what you mean by autofocus mode using flash. Could you explain futher?



#3
bcreighton@gmx.com

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Thank you Bengt for your reply.

 

I meant the screen mode is using flash while the viewfinder mode does not.  I believe you have answered this question, though it seems a bit strange to me that different methods would be used depending on which method is used.  However, I suppose that could also be handy once I understand it, like different preset options I suppose.

 

I don't have time to review the other link right now, have to leave and will be gone for the day, but I will look and perform the procedure and report back.

 

Again, thank you very much for your help!

 

Barry



#4
Bengan

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If you would like to know more about the different techniques used for AF, here are two links:

 

Phase detection: Autofocus: phase detection

Contrast detection: Autofocus: contrast detection

 



#5
bcreighton@gmx.com

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Bengt,

 

Thanks for the links.  That makes more sense now.

 

I watching the calibration video.  I have switched the camera over to AF-ON for the calibration procedure.  Apparently, with Nikon I should NOT use the manual mode for the calibration.  I am using my 18-55 mm lens.  I have the zoom about half-way and put a target focus on the wall straight in front of the camera about 6 feet away.

 

I focus in the live view mode.  I focus and zoom and it looks locked on.  I am told to put the aperature in the largest setting, smallest f stop.  So, I put it in manual mode and accordingly adjusted the f stop to the smallest setting.  I then manually set the shutter speed to about 1/30 of a second, which seems right for the room light.

 

I made sure the fine tune mode is on and set to zero.

 

Next, the video says to depress the shutter button half-way in the VF mode and I should see green arrows and dots.  I don't see any such thing and can't figure out if there is a combination of buttons I should be pressing or I'm missing something? 

 

When I'm done with this lens, I should be able repeat the process for my 18-200mm lens?  I obviously mostly use that with the zoom lens for filming/taking photos of my sons' games, bball etc.  Should I perform the calibration then in the zoom mode at a good distance?

 

Thanks.



#6
Merco_61

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The green dot is no longer green. The dot and arrows are a part of the LCD at the bottom of the viewfinder in the D7200. You will find them in the bottom left corner.

 

Using the focus confirmation dot will get you in the ballpark, but the dot is far from exact. A rig with a depth scale will show you if the focus is still slightly off. I posted about building my own target here. You can use the Bob Atkins target or any target you like on a rig like that and get the best of both worlds.

 

A Lens Align Pro or the Reikan FoCal system aren't cheap, but they remove all guesswork from the process.



#7
Bengan

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Using the focus confirmation dot will get you in the ballpark, but the dot is far from exact. A rig with a depth scale will show you if the focus is still slightly off. I posted about building my own target here. You can use the Bob Atkins target or any target you like on a rig like that and get the best of both worlds.

 

A Lens Align Pro or the Reikan FoCal system aren't cheap, but they remove all guesswork from the process.

 

Agreed. Best way is to use a dedicated target like the one Peter built. Follow the link to pentaxforums that Adam posted (Fixing Front and Back Focus - Introduction - In-Depth Articles). Well written and you can learn how to use a target like Peters.

Remeber that AF fine tuning will take time. It's all about trial and error and you need to take several shots until you get consistent results. 



#8
bcreighton@gmx.com

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OK, will try that today later and report back. 



#9
bcreighton@gmx.com

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OK, I believe I have gotten the gist of fine tuning.  This is going to be a little more complicated as I need to provide a little more background.

 

My lenses and camera were working fine until a couple of months ago when I was video recording my son's band performance.  Half way through the performance, the unit locked on me.  I had to remove batteries and reboot to start.  The back screen no longer worked and was getting the err message.  After searching web for answers and finding nothing, went to JustAnswer.com and got a camera specialist who ran me through a series of tests, which I did, and told me my main board was fried and basically said I'd be better off buying a new camera body than trying to get it fixed.  Well, that's a little too much for me, so picked up a main board on Ebay "new" from China.  The "new" board looked ok.  I installed it and eventually got it working, the main screen was working.  At first, actually, got the Err message until I opened the unit to inspect and open the mirror and magically the err disappeared and the unit appeared to be working properly.  Thought I was out of the woods until this VF focus thing bit me.  OK, results of testing.

 

On my nikon 18-200 lens, which I love, -20 produced the best result, but was still quite blurry.  I switched over to my 18-55 lens and got a pretty decent result at -20.  Before it was at 0.

 

So, why would switching out a board change the focus parameters through the VF, which to me appears to be what happened?

 

Next, am I hosed?  Anything else I can do without spending hundreds to get this focus thing fixed?



#10
Bengan

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I have never disassembled a DSLR so I'm on really thin ice here, but it sounds to me that either the distance to the image sensor or the autofocus sensor has changed after installing the new motherboard.  

 

If my experience with re-shimming focusing screens has any bearing a difference of only fractions of a milimeter will have significant effects.

 

Is the problem front- or backfocusing? Perhaps you could post a few shots from the calibration trials at different settings.

 

 

Edit: No thats not it



#11
Bengan

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OK, disregard my last post. Instead read this link: https://photo.stacke...ard-replacement

Evidently there are calibration values for phase detection written to the motherboard for each camera body and after switching maotherboard the values have to be updated. I have no idea how those are measured and written.



#12
bcreighton@gmx.com

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Bengt and Merco,

 

Thank you so much for your help.  In the end, the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze.  I decided to cut my losses, sold the camera, and bought a new camera body.  This was an expensive little malfunction.  I am pretty disappointed because one of the main reasons I chose the Nikon over Canon was because I thought it would be more durable.  lol.  Not sure I'll buy another Nikon after this one, but maybe the new one will fare better.

 

And yea, I disclosed the issue with the VF focus and main board I installed when I sold it.

 

This event probably would have wasted more of my time, frustration, and money without your guidance.  So, thank you for help.  And Merry Christmas, or Happy Holidays, as you prefer.



#13
Bengan

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Good luck with your new body. I don't think that you are worse off with Nikon than any other brand when it comes to durability. A fried motherboard can unfortunately happen to any camera, although it's a rare thing.