Jump to content

Welcome to NikonForums.com
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Lens Flare


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1
Scottb1872

Scottb1872

    New Member

  • Forum Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Country Flag
Hi guys. I'm new to the forum and was looking for some assistance. I'm currently shooting with a d3100 with the standard 18-55mm lens. I've recently got into long exposure night shots and I've got some shots that I'm delighted with however I have found a great deal of lens flare on many of my shots, especially when there is a strong light source nearby.

What is the best way to reduce lens flare or is it common with the lens I'm using? I have been using a UV filter, mainly to protect the lens, and I am using a lens hood but still get the flare. Will a better quality lens reduce the flare in my photos?

Thanks very much in advance.

Scott

#2
Nikon Shooter

Nikon Shooter

    Nikonian

  • Forum Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,041 posts
  • Country Flag
  • Location: French Canadian living in Central Europe

What is the best way to reduce lens flare or is it common with the lens I'm using? I have been using a UV filter, mainly to protect the lens, and I am using a lens hood but still get the flare. Will a better quality lens reduce the flare in my photos?


Filters will be of no help hereā€¦ and though some pro lens will reduce
flare, the only way I know is to block it entering the lens.

#3
Merco_61

Merco_61

    Nikonian

  • Premium Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,587 posts
  • Country Flag
  • LocationUppsala, Sweden

Site Supporter

Get rid of filters at night. Even a good filter *will* introduce flare or ghosting sooner or later for two reasons.

First, it sits less recessed, so it reduces the effect of the lens hood.

Second, it can act as a mirror if you have high contrast in your night shot. This means that the light from a pinpoint light in the scene enters the lens, bounces on the shiny sensor surface, is reflected again on the rear surface of the filter, enters the lens again at another angle and produces ghosting.

 

The humble 18-55 is remarkably good at reducing flare, but making the hood better by flagging it with some black card stock that makes for a better shadow over the lens surface will help.



#4
Scottb1872

Scottb1872

    New Member

  • Forum Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Country Flag

Get rid of filters at night. Even a good filter *will* introduce flare or ghosting sooner or later for two reasons.
First, it sits less recessed, so it reduces the effect of the lens hood.
Second, it can act as a mirror if you have high contrast in your night shot. This means that the light from a pinpoint light in the scene enters the lens, bounces on the shiny sensor surface, is reflected again on the rear surface of the filter, enters the lens again at another angle and produces ghosting.

The humble 18-55 is remarkably good at reducing flare, but making the hood better by flagging it with some black card stock that makes for a better shadow over the lens surface will help.

Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean by flagging the hood with black card?

Thanks for your in depth reply.

#5
Merco_61

Merco_61

    Nikonian

  • Premium Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,587 posts
  • Country Flag
  • LocationUppsala, Sweden

Site Supporter

The hood is only close to optimal at the widest setting of the lens. This means that you need a deeper hood when you use longer focal lengths. To do this, you can use your hand or cap to shield the front element or you can use some gaffer's tape to mount a more or less improvised extension on the side the sun comes from. This extension is easiest made from the elegant sheets of matte black card stock you find in gift shops and where they sell stationery and materials for clipbooking. When you use things to stop light going where you don't want it to go, that is called flagging the light.



#6
Fletch

Fletch

    Forum Veteran

  • Forum Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 404 posts
  • Country Flag
  • LocationHawaii

Based on what everyone is saying try these, not sure which version 18-55 you're using so I selected the 52mm.  The cheapest way to go is what Merco is suggesting though.

 

https://www.adorama.com/lemwh.html

https://www.adorama.com/lewar52.html



#7
Scottb1872

Scottb1872

    New Member

  • Forum Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Country Flag

Based on what everyone is saying try these, not sure which version 18-55 you're using so I selected the 52mm.  The cheapest way to go is what Merco is suggesting though.
 
https://www.adorama.com/lemwh.html
https://www.adorama.com/lewar52.html

The hood is only close to optimal at the widest setting of the lens. This means that you need a deeper hood when you use longer focal lengths. To do this, you can use your hand or cap to shield the front element or you can use some gaffer's tape to mount a more or less improvised extension on the side the sun comes from. This extension is easiest made from the elegant sheets of matte black card stock you find in gift shops and where they sell stationery and materials for clipbooking. When you use things to stop light going where you don't want it to go, that is called flagging the light.


Thanks guys.