7 replies to this topic

[bobvasi]

New to the D5.

 

Photo of a posed subject is sharp with these Lightroom Sharpening values at import:

 

Amount: 25

Radius: 1.0

Detail: 25

Masking: 0

 

My action photos are not as sharp, in fact they seem to be soft.  The focus point is on the face.

 

Shutter speed is 1/1600 to 1/2000

Aperture is f/7.1 to f10

 

Lenses:

 

300 f/2,8

600mm f/4

 

Two examples attached.  

 

1. Is it possible for the D5 to produce action photos as sharp as those produced in the studio?

 

2.  Any ideas why my photos are soft?

 

Attached Thumbnails

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[TBonz]

What are your focus settings?  Are you using back button focus?  ISO and any other info?  Putting the settings with the image (such as the left image was shot with the 300 at f7.1 and 1/2000) would be more helpful than listing what each setting might be...

[bobvasi]

I apologize for the late reply.  It seems I have something here set to not get notifications of a reply.  

The Photo on the left:

1/2000 f/5.0, ISO: 1800, 420mm (300 f2.8 + 1.4TC)

Focus mode: AF-C, 9 pt. 

Focus point is on her face. 

I have the AF-ON button set to autofocus in Group, and the shutter release button is set to use AF-9 with autofocus, so, in this case the shutter button was used to autofocus. I have heard the AF-ON Button is preferable, but I don't understand what difference it makes.  

 

 

Photo on the right:

1/2000, F/7.1, ISO 2800, 600mm (600mm f/4 lens, no TC)

AF-C, 9pt

Shutter release button used to autofocus.

Focus point on the middle of his nose. 

 

Most of my photos are like these, not quite sharp.  

I use the slant ruler method to Fine tune the AF

[ScottinPollock]

I'll start off with the obvious, and that is there are only three reasons why an image is soft:

1.) Camera missed focus

2.) Shutter speed not high enough to freeze motion

3.) Lens is soft at current settings

You can test for 3 by taking a photo of a still object with same gear and settings.

You can calculate for 2 by determining field of view for the focal length, and if you know speed of movement, you can calculate how many pixels of movement you have for any given shutter speed. It is hard to judge critical focus given the resolution of the uploaded files, but I think I see motion blur in the dirt... So you may not have high enough shutter speed for tack sharp motion freeze.

As for #1, if it is missing focus, there is usually a plane somewhere else in the frame that is sharper than the focus point. Check for that in the full Rez file. If nothing is sharp, it is probably due to 2 or 3.

[TBonz]

Assuming you used a monopod (or tripod) and didn't have VR turned on, you shutter should be plenty fast enough.  I am not sure I understand if you are using back button (AF-ON) or the shutter button for focus - seems like you said both.  Back Button Focus separates the focus from the shutter and I find it gets me more keepers.  

 

Using Scott's message, testing for #3 is easy and a good idea to make sure all is well with your gear...you can fine tune if need be.  The other piece Scott mentions would be potential camera movement potentially indicating too slow a shutter speed.  If you had VR turned on while using a monopod or tripod or if you were hand holding, then those were likely the reasons.  It isn't easy to hand hold a 300 2.8 with or without a TC.  Using a good monopod and with VR turned off, 1/2000 should be fast enough to stop the movement of horse and rider.  

 

AF-C, BBF and a single point should do you fine.

[bobvasi]

The 300 and 600 are used on a tripod with VR in the OFF position. 

 

Sportz Guy:  I agree, 1/2000 should produce a sharp image, and yet mine are soft.  I also shoot at 1/1600 so maybe that's the issue with some.  

 

A few months ago, I adjusted AF-Fine Tune on both lenses and both TC's

 

Over the weekend, I checked this again, and the Fine Tune was off by 10, I hope this was the problem. 

 

The problem too is that the target of focus is the face. this means the I have to keep the focus point on a small object,moving toward me as fast as a horse can gallop.  A target that moves up and down and laterally.  A target that is behind the head of the horse, which is also moving up and down.  The target is behind the ears of the horse often behind a swinging rope and under a cowboy hat.  

 

I've tried 3-D focus and the point jumped too much, or so it seemed to me.  I have not tried 3D with face recognition.  

 

How do  set this thread so I get an email when there is a reply?

[TBonz]

I would suggest focusing on the chest of the person rather than face with the movement you have to fight.  Depending, you may occasionally get face or horse's head, but you should still get better than what you have above, especially with your aperture.  

 

 

The above was with my 200-400 at f4, ISO 400, 1/1000 and D4 on a monopod...granted no TC and at 200 but based on what you have indicated, it sounds to me like it may have missed focus or it is getting movement from the shutter release on the tripod...

 

[Merco_61]

Have you done the fine tune under the same type of light and at approximately the same distance? The AF has problems with some wavelengths of light and some lenses.