23 replies to this topic

[saturno]

Hello,

 

This is my first post here. Thank you. 

 

I need help because I am getting crazy.

 

Does anyone here make timelapses with the Nikon d610 and the Rokinon 14mm?

 

I have made several really good but in the last two days, the timelapses appear with a flickering.

 

The most weird part is that if I change the lens, the timelapses look good! I have already googled a lot but I did not find the solution.

 

Has this happened to anyone here?

 

Any idea what that might be?

 

Thank you!

[Merco_61]

Check that you don't have a sticky aperture. When you flick the actuating lever at the back of the lens, inside the mount, does the aperture blades close with a firm, snappy action or is the movement hesitant? If you try doing a timelapse with the aperture wide open, does the flickering go away?

[Merco_61]

Another thought is that your shutter speed might be too fast if you have artificial light in the scene. Some light sources flicker as they discharge once every cycle of the alternating current, so the flicker is at 50Hz in Europe and 60 Hz in the USA. Shutter speeds up to half the cycle (1/100 in Europe and 1/120 in the USA) usually work but if you go faster, you might have different light levels in every frame.

[saturno]

Hello Merco_61,

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it because I’m driving crazy with this. I am spending a lot of money to be traveling where I am and I really need to back home with timelapses for a work.

So, I do timelapses mostly at night, outdoor, for the northern lights (aurora borealis). I never have artificial light.
I always use the lens in 2.8.
The ISO it can happen I make in 1600, 2000 or sometimes 3200, it depends on how much light I receive from the moon.
Same for the shutter speed: 2, 3 or 4 seconds.

What is weird is that in the same timelapse sometimes there is flickering, and then it stops and works well. That happened some minutes ago, in a timelapse I tried in daylight.

I am trying to put some timelapses online just to show you.

This body D610 is new. I’ve already put OFF a lot of functions in settings who were in AUTO mode. I thought I fixed the problem but it still there.

I am really angry with this.

thank you.

[Merco_61]

You might want to drop Nicole (nbanjogal) a line. She has used her D600 for timelapse for a while and might have some ideas.

[saturno]

Yes, I was reading what she wrote in a post about a similar problem.

 

thank you, tack.

[saturno]

So, here it is a timelapse I made some hours ago. In the first half we see a LOT of flickering. 

 

But then it suddenly stops and works well!

 

 

 

There are the settings I used: UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180401_105041.jpg

 

What might be the cause of the problem?

 

 

thank you

[ScottinPollock]

Is there somewhere (maybe Google Drive) you can upload the vid so we can download the actual file?

You can't advance frame by frame over vimeo or YouTube so it is rough to determine what is wrong.

[Merco_61]

What metering pattern did you use, it looks like Matrix?

Did you have AutoISO on? I am not familiar enough with the D610 to remember if it shows AutoISO in the LV screen.

The flickering seems to stop when the cloud cover gets to a large enough part of the screen.

[saturno]

thanks!

 

Well, I never use the auto ISO, I always pay attention to that.

 

"metering pattern did you use, it looks like Matrix" --> I admit I have no idea what's this.... sorry.

 

Scotting Pollock: is it ok if I send the original file by wetransfer? I will upload now and I'll copy here the link. It can take a while, my connection is slow.

 

It seems that the problem just happens sometimes and I really need to find the cause because I will stress a lot if I start doing a timelapse under the aurora without knowing if it will work. If the aurora arrives, I can't miss the moment.

I am trying to read about the metering pattern in Darrel Young's book "Mastering the Nikon d610" that I have here with me.

[ScottinPollock]

Scotting Pollock: is it ok if I send the original file by wetransfer? I will upload now and I'll copy here the link. It can take a while, my connection is slow

Not familiar with wetransfer, but as long as I can download it without having to sign up or create a login that should be fine.

[Merco_61]

If all types of auto really is off, the metering pattern doesn't matter but if any kind is on, Matrix metering can identify the scene differently and apply different exposure compensation depending on exactly where the clouds are. Centerweighted metering is usually safer.

Do you use the built-in timelapse mode or do you take the frames using the interval timer and make the timelapse movie in post?

Could it be some drastic changes in white balance that affect the timelapse and makes it flicker, I noticed that you have the WB set to Auto?

[saturno]

ScottinPollock: yes, wetransfer is very easy to download (and fast). I am uploading but it will take some more minutes. I also put there one small timelapse I made in the night, the first timelapse that had flickering.

 

Merco61, I am reading about the mettering pattern and Matrix in the Darrel Young book "Mastering the Nikon D610" that I have here with me (I found the book really helpful).

 

I'm a bit confused with the subject.

I see that my camera have the Matrix metering with a 0 (zero). Same thing for "Center-weighted metering" and "Spot metering". (all this in b5 section). Should I need to change something?

 

Also, I'm intrigued by the definitions of Center-weighter area. My camera is on option 12mm but I am using one 14mm lens. Should I need to change this?
I put here 2 photos of my screen.

 

UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180401_134047.jpg

 

UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180401_134105.jpg

 

 

I am sorry to bother you with all this and I really appreciate your kindness and support.

[Merco_61]

Matrix meters several spots and compares the pattern of the deviation to a database to automatically apply an exposure compensation when it identifies a dark or light background. This compensation isn't shown anywhere, it is just the nature of Matrix.

 

Center-weighted metering meters the full scene, but weighs the center part more heavily than the outlying parts. This pattern doesn't change unless you change the size of the center circle. This makes it more predictable to the experienced photographer. The 12 mm has nothing to do with the focal length of your lens, but the different options make it easier for users coming from other cameras that meter different than the current Nikons.

[saturno]

Thanks, Merco_61.

And what do you recommend me? Change the size of the center circle?

I dont know if this happens because often I try to shoot images like this: the area underneath is very bright (the snow with the reflection of the moon) and the upper zone much darker (the night sky). But I would say that the center of the image is normally upper, I mean, in the "night sky zone".

 

ScottinPollock, here's the two files:

 

- one of the same video I put in vimeo

 

- the other one (smaller) a timelapse I made at night and it was the first with the flickering. The flickering we see here is more visible in the sides of the image.

 

you can download here : https://we.tl/9qMXoDnSQo

 

Again, thank you so much for your patience with me.

[ScottinPollock]

ScottinPollock, here's the two files

 

Well... I am afraid I am stumped here. Look at these two "adjacent" frames:

 

Look at the histograms. There are three+ stops difference in the exposure of these two images. I have no explanation as to why two adjacent frames would be so drastically different.

[Merco_61]

The 12 mm circle works well, so don't change it for now.

 

This three-stop difference in exposure looks like the aperture actuator arm in the body sometimes misses the lever on the lens, so the aperture closes down all the way instead of stopping at the set f/9 for some frames. Check that both the levers aren't bent.

 

Another possible culprit is if a contact is dirty and the lens and body don't communicate correctly and you set the aperture from the body instead of using the ring on the lens. There is a custom function to enable the use of the aperture ring on Ai-P lenses like your Rokinon, I think you find it under custom function f5. The mechanical control of the aperture is one of the strengths of the Rokinon compared to G-type lenses for the consistent exposures needed for timelapse as has been mentioned in other timelapse threads earlier.

[ScottinPollock]

This three-stop difference in exposure looks like the aperture actuator arm in the body sometimes misses the lever on the lens, so the aperture closes down all the way instead of stopping at the set f/9 for some frames. Check that both the levers aren't bent.

Didn't realize this is an AE lens on Nikon.

But it is not just three stops. Throughout the movie the exposure changes wildly. There are large chunks where every other frame is exposed differently. While I have seen intermittent behavior with Nikon's "bailing twine and chewing gum" aperture control, I have never seen anything this screwy (unless it is a sticky diaphragm).

If this is a new/in warranty/returnable lens you should probably check it for smooth operation via the lever, and if not, get it repaired or replaced.

[Merco_61]

A damaged arm can give wildly varying exposure if it nearly catches. I have mostly seen such weirdness with the Series E Nikons that have the actuating arm glued in place inside the lens.

 

The Samyang/Rokinon etc arms aren't the best made or sturdiest as you can see, but here are a couple of photos of a well-working one on my fisheye.

 

It should be centered in it's slot and not lean in- or outwards if everything is as it should. Besides this, check that the aperture snaps closed without hesitation when you flick the arm.

[saturno]

Hello,

 

I always have to set the aperture to f22 in the lens, it's the only way to work with this rokinon and D610. If I don't put it in f22, camera will give me a error message. But that's normal. I use body settings to control aperture.

 

As I told, this D610 body is new and maybe it is something in settings that I haven't figure out until now. I was wondering if it is in the "Aperture setting" option. I have select "Sub-command dial" and not "Aperture ring".

 

For the lens, I think things are ok, no? Take a look in these images

 

UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180402_151127.jpg

 

UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180402_151159.jpg

 

UploadDeImagens.com.br - 20180402_151220.jpg

 

 

I getting crazy with this....