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not sure why or how come i get a lot back light photo's on Z6


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13 replies to this topic

#1
fallout666

fallout666
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took a lot of photo from local Brevard’s Renaissance Fair if was in shade or not facing the sun i getting tons of back light photo's here some examples and was getting in woods when shot paintball since in shade looking in to sunny field. what i got this weekend was if had sun behind me add shooting at person got back light photo or back lite photo why is doing that. also notice when i had auto-iso on and set for low 2000 iso and shutter of 2000 not to go low iso would go down 680 on me when said do not go lower them 1000 iso or 2000 iso since know little to dark from where oi am shooting from. so notice auto-iso not doing what i told it to do in manual mode and aperture mode too. use way low iso then i set not go low then. if finding have to do more editing on lightroom and nikon capture ND-X now since having to make so more brighter too. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

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#2
Fletch

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I'm just guessing here so,

 

in the first photo it appears both you and the subject are completely in a shaded area and there is enough ambient light (especially upper center) to confuse the meter.  I think a fill flash would have worked well here.

in the second photo the camera appears to have metered on the brightly lit background as its not over exposed and your subject is under exposed, a fill flash would have been of benefit here as well.

 

If I am wrong one of the more experienced guys will be along hopefully to correctly identify the problem.



#3
Merco_61

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If your subject is backlit, you will usually need to dial in some positive exposure compensation if you are in an auto mode of some kind. If you shoot in full manual, you will have to remember to overexpose relative to the meter. The meter tries to get everything to a medium grey, which will lead to underexposure if the background is bright.



#4
Ron

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This is one area where Nikon's daylight balanced fill flash can save the day. I worked a similar festival many years ago with my N90s and SB-28. The flash nailed the exposures perfectly in every photo. I was amazed at how well it performed. 

 

--Ron



#5
fallout666

fallout666
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i was in shade every time or with sun facing my back. first photo sun was facing my back and no shooting into sun. second picture was standing under shade area from tree or something else can not recall. but most likely from shade of tree. did same thing for paintball when in woods shoot out to open field where very sunny and bright i got back lite or back light photo. what is name for term back lite or back light. never had this issue with d5300 or d7200 only when i went full frame and started to use Z6 body.  Also i use auto-iso for reason. since had learn disability all my life. i have to see what i doing or mind freaks out. since can not multitask majority of time i relayed on auto-iso to help my issue out. since will not get confused when trying to recall which way to make changes  on fly and lose  track of subject. also was not for world warcarft could no be able to play games or type with out having watch the keys i need to hit for action or learn how to type without looking at key board. other then making pictures brighter do i need crop or not on them. 



#6
Merco_61

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What metering mode do you use?

 

One thing to remember when using the Z series is that they are the first generation when it comes to metering and AF technology. The Matrix metering in DSLRs of today started development for the FA manual focus film body nearly 40 years ago. The ancestor of the AF systems we know and use in the DSLRs are only 10 years younger as the F90/N90 was the first Nikon to use the distance information to control the focusing speed curve.



#7
fallout666

fallout666
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matrix  metering mode. 



#8
Merco_61

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In Matrix, the meter compares the metering pattern to a database of patterns to set a compensation. The camera probably misidentified these as landscape shots where the background is the important part. In situations like these with a sunny background and deep shadows, fill flash is your friend. Otherwise, you will have to spotmeter on the faces and let the background blow out.



#9
Nikon Shooter

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This is one area where Nikon's daylight balanced fill flash can save the day. --Ron

 

Ron got it right, my approach here would be to use flash support.

 

In these, even with poor jpg files, there is enough information to
suggest pissible renditions…

backlit1.jpg

 

backlit2.jpg
 



#10
Ron

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I was thinking the same thing ... about pulling info out of the shadows. There is certainly enough info to do that. I probably would have done it a bit differently though... probably using lightroom's radial gradient tool so as to not lighten the sky anymore than necessary. But, in any case, the images are salvageable.

 

With digital you (sorta) meter the same was as we did with slide film. Expose for the highlights and let the shadows fall where they may. Unfortunately, just as with slide film, that sometimes leads to your subject falling into a black hole. And, in those cases, you have two options. Move the subject so that it's in sunllight, or use fill flash to illuminate the subject. Unfortunately, the Z series cameras don't have built in speedlights so you have to use an add on flash unit.

 

--Ron



#11
Nikon Shooter

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probably using lightroom's radial gradient tool so as to not lighten the sky anymore than necessary.


I don't use LR and don't even recommend it.

 

I used a very precise luminance mask on the girls avoiding
touching any other parts of these pictures.

Of my 4 work horses, only the D810 as a built in flash; I much
prefer to use my OCF system.



#12
Ron

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Each to his own regarding PP software, I try not to judge.  :rolleyes:  Lightroom/Photoshop works for me so that's what I use. 

 

I only mentioned the pop up flash because both of the previous cameras the OP referred to have them and, in a pinch, they could be useful. At least better than nothing. I also prefer OCF for my work.

 

--Ron



#13
Nikon Shooter

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Each to his own regarding PP software, I try not to judge.  :rolleyes:  Lightroom/Photoshop works for me so that's what I use. 

Yes, absolutely! :)

 

I only mentioned the pop up flash because both of the previous cameras the OP referred to have them and, in a pinch, they could be useful. At least better than nothing. I also prefer OCF for my work.  --Ron

Yes, absolutely … again!  :P


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#14
fallout666

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thanks for the help people. also i always shoot raw and use jpg for quick share or have be able to look at photo i want to keep. since windows photo had not been update to read Z6/Z7 files yet. if not quick post i will post edited raw or raw file made to jpg. i refuse to use jpg at times. since what to full edit from lightroom or nikon captureND-X program to get full picture.