The Google machine is your friend. >>>

Induro makes a nice sturdy, inexpensive tripod with a ballhead.  At somepoint you will want to buy a different ballhead but the legs are quite nice for the price.

http://www.indurogea...es-tripod-kits/

  Wont be shooting excessively by any means. 

 

You can replace shutters correct?  pretty inexpensively from what i have read

If you will not be shooting muck, 200K actuations is a long ways away.  You ay 135K actuations left.  If you consider, say 20K actuations a year getting to the limit is about seven years out. 

Patrick:

Good for you going for film.  Since AF is not needed I would suggest getting an FE.  There are lits of them available and a basic camera with all manual controls. but with a light meter.  Here is a ton of them for a little over a hundred dollars.

http://www.keh.com/s...eprice=0&r=SE

If you want something a bit more automatic a N65 or a N80 would be nice.  Those are super cheap.

Three clicks in Topaz Labs Lens Effects.  Good point Jesper about the crop.  I see your point.  Thanks.

First, before we get too carried away making suggestions, what does your Canon equipment not do that you wish to do?  To ask the same question another way, how is your current equipment holding you back?

Having a handle on the answers will beging to clarify for you your needs/desires and help up make responsible, cogent suggestions.

Also as a 35+ year Nikon shooter, I feel compelled to ask, as a Canon shooter, why are you asking for equipment suggestions on a Nikon forum site?  You will undoubtedly get Nikon suggestions that may or may not be directly applicable to the Canon line-up.  Are you planning on becomeing a Nikon shooter?  That is very rare - switching.  As I am sure you understand abandoning one line for the other is costly.  Typically, one committed to one or the other there needs to be a burning desire to switch.  I am curious.

Please address these questions then I and others will be in a better position to help you.

I looked at the galleries at the web link provided in the O.P.  I want my three minutes back.

If I paid for an MFA, like he did and the attendant photos were all I could produce I would feel ripped off.

Thanks LE. It's my baby.

I can understand that.  A spectacular piece of artillery, even though the design is 100 years old.

Nice Springfield 1911, BTW.

B&W screw-in filters are the best (relatively) inexpensive ND filters that do not change your WB (much.)  Cheap ND filters are terrible for color cast and changing WB.  That is all I have to give on this topic other than agreeing with Merco_61.

If you want to see what the B&W ND filters can do, go to the "Seascapes Forum" and look at my posts there.

For me, street photography has a strong tradition of being B&W, so I almost always convert my street photos to B&W.  The photo below is from a street fair as part of a music festival in West Palm Beach, FL.  Enjoy.

Thank you both.

Yesterday morning's sunrise worked out OK.  The photo doesn't do the sunrise justice.  You had to be there.  600-second exposure about 35 minutes before sunrise along the coast of Florida, USA, at Point of Rocks.  Enjoy.

I love all your ocean time exposures.

They are all so soft and abstract, like oil paintings.

Thank you sir.

Trying to fine one clean and cheap.  It probably doesn't matter to me size wise as I shoot a D3s, a D600 and a D7000.  Any thoughts on the differences besides the size?

A 206 second exposure in the predawn light of a rock formation just of the beach, at Singer Island, Florida.

A bit about the exposure.  When I take these exposures the timing is always a bit tricky as the light is constantly changing with the coming dawn.  My point is taking a light meter reading then mentally calculating for the exposure time, to compensate for the ND filters will result in an exposure about 20 percent too long.  This exposure used stacked 10-stop and 6-stop filters with ISO 100.

Upham got this one right.  That is what I use also.  Quick, simple and onboard.

 

 

Love it.  Can you explain in a bit more detail how you made it?

 

 Sure do you have a specific question.  Camera on a tripod. A cord actuated shutter release.  The exposure was 0.6 seconds.  Sun was over my shoulder.  A ten stop filter held back the light to get the lengthy exposure.

Anyone here shooting a F5 or F6?  if so which and why?  Thanks.

I troll the few camera stores I find along the way and flea markets.

Any film shooters doing their own scanning?  What high quality scanner are you using?  Is anyone using a Nikon scanner?  Thanks.

Yes, I am afraid you got caught up in the "snooze you lose" position.  Others on this thread are correct that the last lab to color process K stopped after doing Mr. Curry's roll.  And FWIW, and slightly off topic, I was not impressed with many of the compositions he presented from that last roll.

You can buy Tri-X and have it processed for less than $16/roll.  If it were me I would stick it on Ebay.com and take what you can get.  Someone will want it as a momento to the past if nothing else.

Induro ballheads are crap.  The legs are fine, but I once traded out the ballhead from an Induro unit to a different maker as soon as I could.

No a polarizer will not get the same effect but using a polarizer in conjunction with an ND filter is a great idea as the polarizer will knock down the glare.

And to follow up on Merco's thoughts, I carry round 4-stop, 6-stop and a 10-stop filters with rings.  That way I have flexibility to really knock down the light.

One point untouched upon is focusing.  Once you get to 10-stop and beyond you will need to focus, then lock focus, then install the filter(s) as focusing will be near impossible with the filter(s) in place.

How about that D9300 rumor that is floating around?  Finally, and hopefully a replacement for the D300s.  I first read the rumor at NikonRumors.com but it is now at several other blogs and forums.

Can't wait to see the specs.