Nice when I got my d7000 I up graded from the same camera. Do you shoot in RAW or jpg file format?

Hi Daniel,

I shoot raw, and have done so for a few years, although it does involve more work in PS.

I like the flexibility raw gives me, especially with white balance.

The main reason I shoot RAW is for the flexibility it allows in Photoshop.

But I won't attempt to turn a bad picture into a good one.

The best results are always achieved if you start with a nice sharp, and reasonably exposed image.

My basic adjustments would be White Balance, and Cropping,.

Then I re-size for the net, adjust Levels, Unsharp Mask, add a watermark, then save as JPEG.

The whole process takes between 10 - 30 minutes.

We don't get Autumn here in the tropics, just 2 seasons, Wet and Dry.

We're at the start of the Wet (the 'Build-up') at this time of year hot and humid.

The late Dry would be the closest thing to Autumn here, but everything is usually burnt.

Here the links page from my website:

https://sites.google...tdadarwin/links

Mainly using Picasa and Facebook.

Once done editing in photoshop I can save the images as jpegs right?

Yes that's right.

I actually save the RAW file as a PS file, then Save As JPEG when I'm finished.

I only shoot RAW these days, and almost always adjust the white balance, which improves the colour instantly.

Even the basic presets like Shade if the photo was taken in the shade make a big difference.

I always preferred slides when I used film, but they fade over time.

I scanned all the best ones a few years ago before they faded too much.

Same goes for prints, especially if you live in a hot humid climate like Darwin.

Wow, great image. What shutter speed was this taken at?

Shutter speed was 1/6 sec, so monopod was essential.

Update: I tried the lens on a new D7000, and the AF didn't work, still works fine on my D300.

I'm now thinking the problem appears to be with the lens, and newer cameras.

This is definitely for US only, tried code and was told US residents only.

Hi Chris,

I have heard that Nikon have reverted back in newer models, might be to difficult to change in firmware update.

Thanks for the great tip, I'll give it a go next time i'm doing a macro shot. What lens did you use?

Thanks mate, I used my AF-S 105mm F2.8 VR on my D7000 mounted on a monopod.

Hi Jack,

It was created from 5 photos.

Mine failed within 24 hours, so if you have used yours for longer than that, it's probably OK.

If the AF stops working with the TC attached, then maybe you should stop using it.

Thanks Nicole,

The Quoll photo was taken at ISO 3200, and I was about a foot from the glass.

There is no back lighting and the viewing area is pitch dark, so reflections are minimal.

My D7000 gives me effective 75mm because of the DX sensor, and I usually crop my photos.

I did quite a bit of post work in Photoshop to remove noise, and fix the colour.

Regards Brian...

Nice photos Nicole.

You could post a link,

The forum lets you attach a photo when you create a new thread.

I try to take several photos with different parts in focus when doing macro photography.

I then use a technique called focus stacking in Photoshop (google it) to improve the depth of field, which is notoriously shallow with macro lenses

Here's an example of a Red flowered Kurrajong created from 5 photos:

I have the following lenses:

Your spot on Adam, it is very strange, especially since it works fine on my D300.

The last thing I tried was updating the firmware to 1.04, (thought that was my best chance).

I have cleaned the contacts several times, it does seem to be a connection or recognition issue.

Hopefully someone has an answer.

The D7000 is the best camera I have owned so far, so I am wondering if I should upgrade to the D7100.

Will the extra megapixals make that much difference?

A trick I learned recently in the Nocternal House, at the Territory Wildlife Park.

The animals are in glasss cages, in very low light, and flash is not allowed.

I was using an AF 50mm F1.8, turned the ISO up high,,swicthed to manual focus (focus assist light reflects off glass), and a monopod.

Live View allowed me to gain more accurate focus than was possible with the viewfinder.

Here is an example photo of a Northern Quoll taken using this method:

I turn off Auto ISO on a D7000 when I'm using the flash.

Wasn't a problem on the D300 or D80, and may have reverted back in newer models.

I find it most useful when doing macro photography, so I usually turn it off when I attach my macro lens.

It will reduce un-necessary noise in your photos.

This was the only change I didn't like in the D7000.

It can be added to the U1 or U2 function.

Hi Adam,

I tend to agree, which is why I returned the TC.

It was second hand, and appeared to be in good condition.

I tested the TC on my D7000 with another lens at a local camera shop, and it worked fine.

When the AF is working on my D7000 (with the 300/4), it works fine.

It stops working once the light meter goes off.

If I re-mount the lens it will sometimes work again.

I have been trying to find out how to do a hard reset, because I reckon it may be a software issue.

Regards Brian...

Well done, looks great...