Scilla siberica

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Takumar Super Multi Coated 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/80
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

Start by taking control of all exposure parameters while you figure any new camera/lens combination out.

The D500 has the same pixel pitch as a D850, so it is much more revealing of any weakness in the lens. The D750 has much larger pixels, physically speaking. 

The denser sensor makes the margin between the sweet spot and starting to lose resolution to refraction much smaller. A slow lens that can be stopped down a step or so on the 24 MP FX sensor will usually need to be stopped down just 1/3 of a step, or even wide open to get as much contrast and perceived sharpness as possible. 

Do you shoot in .jpg or raw? If you shoot in raw, what converter do you use? The 20 MP DX sensor is a bit sensitive to how the de-bayering is implemented.

Welcome to the forums, Salvatore! The only stupid question is the one that goes unasked because of a fear of looking stupid.

Today, I really abused the signature feature of my favourite portrait lens...

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF 105/2 DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.2
Shutter: 1/1000
Exp. Comp.: -0.7

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF 105/2 DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.2
Shutter: 1/500
Exp. Comp.: -0.7

Nearly wide open and the DC set to full front makes for strikingly abstract photos. The 105 is slightly less strange than the 135 with the same setting.

Sometime before midnight (whatever time zone you are in) this Sunday, April 21 2024, post the best photo you have taken this week.
Any subject, any style and any equipment—just give us your best shot.
If you can, list your EXIF info and any special lighting setups you may have used.

I visited my parents grave, lit a couple of candles and laid down some roses today.

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/250
Exp. Comp.: -1.7

SOOC:

SOOC, monochrome:

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/400
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

Tonemapped and cropped:

Detail extractor in CEP:

SEP recipe:

Final result:

Probably sensible. Finding good D7000 bodies isn’t difficult.

Hello Mark & welcome.
 
I wonder if you've tried a two button reset on the D7000?
The should show if it's a setting.
 
Unfortunately, it looks to me like a sensor or processor fault.

​Model: NIKON Z f

Lens: AF-S Nikkor 14-24/2.8 on FTZ
Lens (mm): 17
ISO: 4030
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/15
Exp. Comp.: -2.0

Scilla forbesii

Z Nikkor 85/1.8 on Z6II

The blue hour was spectacular today...

Model: NIKON Z f
Lens: AF-S Nikkor 14-24 on FTZ
Lens (mm): 17
ISO: 4030
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/15
Exp. Comp.: -2.0

I wrote about this lens being temperamental... Here are some examples:

One with a streetlight in the shot...

Shot in a slightly different direction, without moving...

For this one, I moved about 4 meters away from the streetlight to get rid of the light overspill...

OK then 20mm max allowed, but we try to use wider as possible.

 

 

I am looking with time for Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G IF-ED, I found one second hand for 600 Euro + shipping, and it's tempting me too much it's very fair price.

Only one defect, the rubber on the zoom ring is a little loose, but the lens is near mint. And it comes with original soft case and cups.

I see how to fix the prob adding another rubber more narrow on top of the other.

 

 

If it still doesn't sell, maybe next month it will be mine, it's a great lens and nice price.

Be aware that it is a temperamental lens to use. The big, protruding front element will find any stray light in the scene and use it to change your previsualized idea. If you shoot it stopped down, the DOF preview is your friend…

Zf and 85/1.8 S today.

SOOC:

Model: NIKON Z f
Lens: Z Nikkor 85/1.8 S
Lens (mm): 85
ISO: 100
Aperture: 3.2
Shutter: 1/250
Exp. Comp.: -0.3

Tonemapped and cropped:

Detail Extractor filter in CEP:

SEP recipe:

Final version:

Sometime before midnight (whatever time zone you are in) this Sunday, April 14 2024, post the best photo you have taken this week.
Any subject, any style and any equipment—just give us your best shot.
If you can, list your EXIF info and any special lighting setups you may have used.

Ai or AiS lenses work in aperture priority or manual on the D750. To use shutter priority or program mode, you need a chipped lens, such as Ai-P or any type of AF lens. 

Studio NX, like View NX before it has an overlay that shows the active focus point when toggled on. This only shows in the app and isn’t visible in other applications or prints.

Model: NIKON Z 6_2
Lens: Super Takumar 135/3.5
Lens (mm): 135
ISO: 112
Aperture: 3.5
Shutter: 1/250
Exp. Comp.: -0.7

Two very different alleys with my Super Multi Coated Takumar 55/1.8 on an Zfc with a K&F Concept adapter today. Both f/2.8...

How about a hard cut @ 20 with a recommendation to try wider?

A short walk along the river today with a 60 years old Takumar 135/3.5 wide open on the Z6II

Peter S, maybe 20mm or less for FX and 14mm or less for DX, it's more inclusive and still ultrawide category.

Because very limited 19mm for FX, I only know Vivitar series 1 lens and Cosina with 19mm like this one I have, but 20mm is more pretty common.

I know Pete have one Nikon 20mm AF f/2.8D for example.

 

Cosina AF 19-35mm F3.5-4.5
https://radojuva.com...5-4-5-af-nikon/

To my eyes and brain, 20 mm still looks like wide-angle and 18-19 look ultrawide. I think it is the fact that 20 mm photos so often still look good cropped to 5:4 but shorter lenses usually look better @ 3:2 or wider aspect ratios. 

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Samyang 8/3.5 on FTZ
Lens (mm): 8
ISO: 400
Aperture: 7.1
Shutter: 1/2000
Exp. Comp.: -1.7