Thank you both very much for the replies.

 

 

I just have the Kit lens "NIKKOR Z DX 18–140 mm 1:3,5–6,3 VR". It was on sale and I wanted something light, that can be used as a single "all-purpose" lens when I'm traveling.

 

 

 

On my previous cameras, I always thought that I have a very good hand for focusing manually. However, that doesn't seem to be true with this lens. I have no feel for the manual focus at all. I think it's far too sensitive for me and even a fracture of a degree seems to make such a huge difference. I think, I will need much more training before I will be able to use the manual focus of this lens.

… or switch focus peaking on.

Custom function d9, page 370 in the reference handbook.

It really is a gamechanger.

Some kind of Dianthus, can be a Chinensis or some other cultivar...

Model: NIKON Z 6_2
Lens: Z Nikkor 85/1.8 S
Lens (mm): 85
ISO: 100
Aperture: 1.8
Shutter: 1/160
Exp. Comp.: +0.3

SOOC:

Model: NIKON Z 6_2
Lens: Z Nikkor 85/1.8 S
Lens (mm): 85
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/125
Exp. Comp.: +1.0

Tonemapped, straightened and cropped:

Detail extractor filter CEP:

SEP recipe:

Final result:

Sometime before midnight (whatever time zone you are in) this Sunday, April 28 2024, post the best photo you have taken this week.
Any subject, any style and any equipment—just give us your best shot.
If you can, list your EXIF info and any special lighting setups you may have used.

Model: NIKON Z f
AF-S Nikkor 14-24/2.8 G ED on FTZ
Lens (mm): 14
ISO: 100
Aperture: 8
Shutter: 1/125
Exp. Comp.: -2.3

More lens-abuse today.

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF Nikkor 105/2 D DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2

DC: full F
Shutter: 1/2500
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

I was after a soft-effect using only the DC feature of the lens, not using a soft-filter.

This setting is far outside the recommended DC setting to at or a smaller number than the aperture value.

Your upgrade path will depend on what lenses you have, and whether you want to continue using them.

Both systems have their strengths and weaknesses.

Nikon’s interchangeable lens cameras can be sorted into 6 families…

• DX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR
• Mainstream FX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR
• High resolution FX sensors, either mirrorless or DSLR

Then, there are the mirrorless retro bodies…

Welcome to the forums!

A good starting point when photographing the aurora is: aperture f/2.8, ISO 1600 (increase if it’s very dark) and 15 seconds shutter speed. Keep in mind that if the aurora is very active (i.e. dances quickly), you need to shorten the shutter speed.

Most of the really spectacular aurora photos are made with fast wide-angles to let as much light as possible in and show some foreground, setting a context, sometimes even using lightpainting on the foreground.

Get away from civilization, as houses mean light pollution…

A sturdy tripod is essential.
 

Neither of your lenses are ideal, but the 50 is less unsuitable than the superzoom. A too narrow field of view means having to composite a less conventional aurora photo. A too slowlens, ov the other hand, moves the starting point from f/2.8, 15 s and ISO 1600, perfectly doable with an old D5100, to either f/5.6, 30 s and ISO 1600 or f/5.6, 15 s and ISO 3200. A longer exposure will give too much movement of the aurora, losing definition. Raising the ISO will produce more digital noise

Model: NIKON Z f
AF-S Nikkor 14-24/2.8 G ED on FTZ
Lens (mm): 14
ISO: 100
Aperture: 8
Shutter: 1/125
Exp. Comp.: -2.3

Scilla siberica

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Takumar Super Multi Coated 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/80
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

Start by taking control of all exposure parameters while you figure any new camera/lens combination out.

The D500 has the same pixel pitch as a D850, so it is much more revealing of any weakness in the lens. The D750 has much larger pixels, physically speaking. 

The denser sensor makes the margin between the sweet spot and starting to lose resolution to refraction much smaller. A slow lens that can be stopped down a step or so on the 24 MP FX sensor will usually need to be stopped down just 1/3 of a step, or even wide open to get as much contrast and perceived sharpness as possible. 

Do you shoot in .jpg or raw? If you shoot in raw, what converter do you use? The 20 MP DX sensor is a bit sensitive to how the de-bayering is implemented.

Welcome to the forums, Salvatore! The only stupid question is the one that goes unasked because of a fear of looking stupid.

Today, I really abused the signature feature of my favourite portrait lens...

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF 105/2 DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.2
Shutter: 1/1000
Exp. Comp.: -0.7

Model: NIKON D750
Lens: AF 105/2 DC
Lens (mm): 105
ISO: 100
Aperture: 2.2
Shutter: 1/500
Exp. Comp.: -0.7

Nearly wide open and the DC set to full front makes for strikingly abstract photos. The 105 is slightly less strange than the 135 with the same setting.

Sometime before midnight (whatever time zone you are in) this Sunday, April 21 2024, post the best photo you have taken this week.
Any subject, any style and any equipment—just give us your best shot.
If you can, list your EXIF info and any special lighting setups you may have used.

I visited my parents grave, lit a couple of candles and laid down some roses today.

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/250
Exp. Comp.: -1.7

SOOC:

SOOC, monochrome:

Model: NIKON Z fc
Lens: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 55/1.8
Lens (mm): 55
ISO: 100
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/400
Exp. Comp.: 0.0

Tonemapped and cropped:

Detail extractor in CEP:

SEP recipe:

Final result:

Probably sensible. Finding good D7000 bodies isn’t difficult.

Hello Mark & welcome.
 
I wonder if you've tried a two button reset on the D7000?
The should show if it's a setting.
 
Unfortunately, it looks to me like a sensor or processor fault.

​Model: NIKON Z f

Lens: AF-S Nikkor 14-24/2.8 on FTZ
Lens (mm): 17
ISO: 4030
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/15
Exp. Comp.: -2.0

Scilla forbesii

Z Nikkor 85/1.8 on Z6II

The blue hour was spectacular today...

Model: NIKON Z f
Lens: AF-S Nikkor 14-24 on FTZ
Lens (mm): 17
ISO: 4030
Aperture: 4
Shutter: 1/15
Exp. Comp.: -2.0

I wrote about this lens being temperamental... Here are some examples:

One with a streetlight in the shot...

Shot in a slightly different direction, without moving...

For this one, I moved about 4 meters away from the streetlight to get rid of the light overspill...

OK then 20mm max allowed, but we try to use wider as possible.

 

 

I am looking with time for Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G IF-ED, I found one second hand for 600 Euro + shipping, and it's tempting me too much it's very fair price.

Only one defect, the rubber on the zoom ring is a little loose, but the lens is near mint. And it comes with original soft case and cups.

I see how to fix the prob adding another rubber more narrow on top of the other.

 

 

If it still doesn't sell, maybe next month it will be mine, it's a great lens and nice price.

Be aware that it is a temperamental lens to use. The big, protruding front element will find any stray light in the scene and use it to change your previsualized idea. If you shoot it stopped down, the DOF preview is your friend…

Zf and 85/1.8 S today.