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yauman's Content

There have been 55 items by yauman (Search limited from 29-March 23)



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#28827 Holiday lights

Posted by yauman on 01 December 2014 - 11:59 PM in Beginner Questions

Thanks for the advice it will be a big help.  I downloaded Enfuse and was able to test it out a little.  It will take some practice but I'm looking forward to capturing some cool scenes.  I believe the D5300 will only bracket 3 shots up to 2ev.  

 

Thanks again!

You can manually bracket (which we all did before the days of auto-bracketing.)  On your camera, set to Aperture Priority mode (A) and use Matrix Exposure mode. Set ISO to 800 or even 1600 (for your D5300, iso 1600 is certainly useable!)  Set camera on sturdy tripod.

Shoot one shot at the desired f-stop and shutter speed as set by camera for the aperture you want determined by depth of field desired - that's your 0 ev reference.  Now take one at one stop slower shutter speed for the +1ev.  Then take another at 2 stops slower shutter speed for the +2ev. Then take one at 1 stop faster than the 0 ev shutter speed - that's your -1 ev and then take the 5th shot at 2 stops faster - that's your -2 ev.  Now you have a 5 shot bracket. 

eg: Aperture priority (A) at ISO 800 - the camera auto pilot set shutter to 1sec. - that's your 0 ev shot.

+1 ev would be 2 sec

+2 ev would be 4 sec

-1 ev would be 1/2 sec

-2 ev would be 1/4 sec

There's your 5 shot HDR 

 

It's more fun doing it this way - also give you an excuse to buy a really expensive but sturdy tripod!  

 

Have fun.




#28802 Holiday lights

Posted by yauman on 01 December 2014 - 12:38 AM in Beginner Questions

No camera sensors or film have the dynamic range of our eyes so in a scene like this, while it looks ok to our eye, you will not be able to capture it with the camera properly.  It is obvious that the lights are very much over exposed - thus the halo effect - and you did that on purpose so that you can get the trees and water in the picture. If you expose for the light properly, everything else will be totally dark - that the result of lack of dynamic ranges. Even if you have a sensor that can captures the scene properly, there is no medium that can display it - your computer screen won't have that dynamic range or contrast ratio capability to show it.  So, if you want to have a good picture of this, here's 3 things you can do to "cheat" a little:

 

1. Time to use HDR - High Dynamic Range technic - do a 5 shot bracket of -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 ev and assemble them together. If you don't know HDR, google it. If you don't have Photoshop and use only Lightroom there is a plugin you can get to do it - google "Enfuse" - is a "donation-ware" and if you like it, donate some money to them.

Or 2. Take the picture during dusk - when there's still some background light and set exposure mode to "spot" and put the spot on the brightest light. The light will be properly exposed but the rest will be under but at least there's some light to show something other than a black dark background. Shoot RAW then in Lightroom, boost the "Dark" and the "Shadow" and up the "Clarity". 

Or 3, Get closer so more of the light fills the image area. Set exposure mode to "matrix" metering and when more of the lighting fills the image, it will meter more accurately for the light and they won't be over exposed.  Google "image christmas lights" and noticed how all the images that are exposed properly (and not done by HDR) have more light than dark in the pictures.

 

Hope this helps.




#28273 images washed out intermittently

Posted by yauman on 04 November 2014 - 12:00 PM in Technical Troubleshooting

Ok, Afterimage pointed out the obvious problem with the way the image was exposed - way over exposed.  If it does that consistently in Auto mode, you've got a problem with the camera but before you send it back to Nikon, try this:

 

1. Perform a "Factory Reset" on the camera.  I don't remember the sequence but it's in the menu - one of the last item.  This will clear any inadvertent setting that may be done on the camera to offset its exposure.

 

2. Set your camera to M-Mode - yes fully manual and use the light meter inside the viewfinder. This will test if you have a light meter problem.  In an indoor setting, set ISO at 800.  Set shutter at 1/60.  Now adjust the aperture (F-stop) until the lightmeter "needle" is in the center - that's the correct exposure.  Shoot.  If the image is still over exposed, your light meter in the camera is bad - it's the same light meter used by the CPU of your camera in Auto mode.

 

3. If it's ok in the Manual mode, your light meter is good, now see if the CPU is good.  Set camera to P-mode - this is the semi auto mode.  Turn command dial to get an ISO reading of 400 to 800 and watch the shutter speed as you turn - you want the shutter speed to be faster than 1/30 sec.  Shoot.  If the image is still over exposed, you got a CPU program.

 

Finally, FORGET the Auto Mode - really seriously!  I work in a camera store and have never seen a Nikon DSLR that can take properly exposed pictures with it in Auto mode. The most awful feature is that it will pop up the flash when there's really not need to - when there's enough parameters left for the camera to push to not have to flash. Whoever designed the computer algorithm for their Full Auto mode must not be a photographer!!!  Use P mode if you must. But learn to use the Aperture Priority A-mode.  Aperture controls depth of field of your focus and that's how you get good pictures.

 

Hope this helps. 




#28254 images washed out intermittently

Posted by yauman on 03 November 2014 - 05:13 PM in Technical Troubleshooting

Did the on-board flash fired?  By the look of the well defined shadow line under the arm, looked like it did!  Looking at the settings, at 1/60, F/5.6 and ISO 3200 there's no need for the flash to fire.

 

Remember this is NOT a Point & Shoot camera - so even in Auto model you cannot treat it like a P & S camera.  

Here's a couple of things to look at:

1. Check what your exposure mode is set at - looks like it may be set to "spot" and the spot you picked for it is dark so the camera went all out to get as much light as possible - then the flash came on and over-exposed the picture.  For general use, set the exposure mode to "Center Weighed" or "Matrix" mode.

2. TURN OFF THE FLASH - just set to no flash mode - you'll get much better pictures in general.  The on-board flash is way too small, has short range and will cast very harsh shadows - and in most instances screw up the picture.  




#28172 Ambient light control question

Posted by yauman on 30 October 2014 - 05:46 PM in Beginner Questions

Yes, you got it!

 

Now you have discovered the inherent weakness of trying to use flash in Aperture Priority mode.  You end up having to fool around/fiddle with two different parameters to try to "cheat" the camera to get to do what you want out of it - if you are going to fiddle you might as well just shoot in manual so you only have to fiddle with just one parameter - the shutter speed.

 

In this fill-in flash situation, all you have to do is select your aperture based on your DOF need (you do that anyway in A-priority mode) then using the light meter (shows up in the viewfinder when you are in manual mode), set the shutter speed to get the correct exposure - then speed up 1 or 2 stops to get the darken effect you want - than use the flash to fill in the subject and expose the subject properly.  Voila - fiddle with shutter speed and you got it and leave the EC and FEC alone!

 

Hope that helps.




#28155 Ambient light control question

Posted by yauman on 29 October 2014 - 10:12 PM in Beginner Questions

Lots of good stuff here.

 

I should have tried to state it more directly, but I'm just trying to understand how the camera is set up to respond to only changing EC when a flash is also used and the camera is set to Aperture Priority.

 

So, in Ap Priority mode with flash, if I dial in EC, does it only impact the ambient exposure?  Or, does it impact both the ambient and the exposure from the flash on the subject?

 

Thanks

 

Ok, simply put, if you dial in EC, you are dialing in more (+EC) or less (-EC) exposure to your whole image. The camera does this by either slowing the shutter speed or upping the ISO - leaving the Aperture unchanged.  If you dial in FEC, you are forcing the flash to put out more (+FEC) or less (-FEC) power - in which case only the part of the image affected by the flash will have different exposure.  As you can see I avoided the use of "ambient" light as it's not alway a useful term here.  If say i have a low ceiling and shooting in my dining room in the daytime or with the room lights on and I point my flash to the ceiling for a wonderful soft bounce flash lighting then changing either the EC or the FEC changes will have the same effect on the resulting image.  However, if I  repeat the exercise with the room light off, ie in darkness, changing the EC will not have as much effect as changing the FEC unless the camera change ISO rather than shutter speed when changing EC - Anyone know if the Nikon up ISO first or slow down shutter first when adjusting for EC change?  Now, change the flash to point to a subject - then changing the EC will definitely change the exposure of the background ambient as well as the subject (ie the whole image) but changing the FEC will only change the exposure of the subject and not the background/ambient.

 

Sorry, I'm not trying to be vague but as you can see, it depends on the situation and how you are using the flash - point straight at the subject with background out of flash range (anything more than 6-10 ft away) or bouncing off a wall or ceiling or straight at subject through a soft box.  If I remember right, you were asking about the SB400 which is a very weak flash so I would say that in most cases, changing EC will change the exposure of the whole image including the background/ambient but changing the FEC will only change the exposure of the subject.  




#28136 Ambient light control question

Posted by yauman on 28 October 2014 - 08:53 PM in Beginner Questions

Let's say for a minute I decided that I am going to use Aperture Priority (even though Manual would be better).

 

If I wanted to bring down the ambient exposure but not affect the flash exposure, would I just dial down EC?  Or, would I have to dial up FEC to compensate for the dialed down EC too?

 

Here's something to keep in mind when using a flash - and you'll be able to solve ALL problems associated with using a flash - regardless of shooting mode!

Without a flash, we have the "exposure triangle" - F-stop, Shutter Speed and ISO.  With flash you have added two more parameter - flash power and distance of flash to subject (not distance of camera to subject!)  The amount of light thrown on subject decreases by the 1/R-square rule so your ambient background unless you are shooting in a 8x8 closet will NOT be lit by the flash.  So, while your subjects exposure is affected by f-stop, flash power, flash distance, & ISO, your background ambient exposure will be controlled by the exposure triangle again - F-stop, Shutter Speed and ISO.

 

When you are on Aperture Priority and you dial in EC values you are telling your camera to change shutter or ISO to affect the overall exposure of the whole image - which includes the ambient background.  If you change FEC, you are only telling the Flash to raise or lower it's output power to some value other than the calculated power based on data from the camera - and remembering that flash effectiveness has very limited distance, only your subject's exposure will be affect and the ambient background much less or not at all (unless you are in an 8x8 closet!!!)

 

Truth be known, I have never successfully shot with aperture priority with my D7100 or D90.  I think Manual with the Nikon CLS system is the only way to go because basically with the CLS TTL you are really in aperture priority - you keep the shutter speed at highest sync speed of the flash, keep the ISO at lowest possible and start shooting with the desired aperture - aka "aperture priority" -  the flash will do the rest for you. When it gives you the beep warning of not enough power, up the ISO by a stop etc.  

 

I shoot exclusive with 2 speed lights (SB700s, both off camera in soft boxes) for all my events and model photography, indoors or out. 

 

Hope this makes sense! 




#28105 Ambient light control question

Posted by yauman on 27 October 2014 - 03:22 PM in Beginner Questions

If you are using a TTL Flash (ie one compatible with the Nikon CLS system - including the onboard flash) you HAVE to shoot in manual to get a good picture - but you are not really in Manual mode - you are actually transferring the auto exposure from the camera to the flash.

 

Set camera to manual - set speed to 200 (or whatever is highest syn speed of you camera.)  Set the aperture to the depth of field you want for your image composition.  The Nikon CLS will communicate with your speed lite and will tell it what the settings are (including zoom focal length.)  The speedlight will than figure out the amount of power to get proper exposure -so you are really in auto-mode - auto exposure by the speed light.  Now if you want to change the exposure, change Flash Compensation.  The power the speedlight regulate is by the time the light is on - in the case of the SB700, from 1/1000 sec for full power to 1/40,000 sec for 1/128 power, that's why the shutter speed doesn't matter! for the subject but it will for the background.  Change shutter speed to change how the background is expose - speedlights do not have the range to light the background - remember the 1/R^2 rule - 2x the distance, 1/4 the power, 3x the distance 1/9 the power. So, the shutter speed will determine the background exposure.

 

Hope this helps.




#27861 File size

Posted by yauman on 17 October 2014 - 11:58 PM in Beginner Questions

Since you are using Lightroom 5 you can even do better.

 

Instead of cropping to a particular fixed dimension and therefore would ruin your composition, in the export dialog select sRGB, the Long Edge to be say 1200 pixel.  Then save as 60% jpg and sharpen for screen set to LOW.  You will have a very small file and have lost nothing.  Remember, ALL browsers to date only displays very limited color gamut and not at very high resolution regardless of your screen.  Now, if you are a doubting Missourian, save an image at 60% JPG and another one at 100% JPG.  Compare the sizes then view them side by side with your browser - you won't be able to tell the difference.

 

By selecting the Long Edge, you force Lightroom's export to keep the perspective ratio.  I usually save at 1000 pixels for most of my work and 1200 when I have to send to someone else - my clients like bigger pictures!!!

 

And a friendly reminder to Photoshop users, please use "Save for Web" instead of "Save As" (Jpg) - Save for Web saves in 216 colors - the full color depth of all browsers and you'll get a smaller file and best of all "Save for Web" removes all metadata from your image - for privacy and to thwart nit-picking trolls pointing out why you should have shot in ISO800 F4 instead of ISO1600 F5.6 etc etc... you know what I mean!!!

 

Hope that helps.




#27842 Correct choice of CF card

Posted by yauman on 16 October 2014 - 10:55 PM in Beginner Questions

At the camera shop I work in with an inhouse camera repair facility, we have had NO cameras coming in for SD slot problem but we do get a camera in with CF card slot problem at least once a month.  It's always the same problem - bent pins.  If they are lucky, the tech can just straighten the pin but many times straightening out the pin will cause it to break - so the whole card contact sub-logic board needs to be replaced which required the camera to be dismantle - and that's a $250 repair bill.  

So, if you have CF cards, please be gentle - press the card in at the middle of the card with 1 finger - do not use 2 fingers, one on each corner - you'll end up rocking the card and pushing it in cockeye.  If you feel any resistance while pushing it in, STOP - remove and try again!

 

Not all the pins are in use, so if you bent a pin that is not in or one of the many ground pins, it will still work - we just have to break the pin off to let the card seat properly.  So, do you feel lucky!!!

 

Because of this, CF cards are now used only for high-end "professional" level cameras.  We have an old Nikon CoolPix 5700 (circa 2002?) that use CF Cards - yes a point and shoot.  Fortunately all new non-pro cameras use SD cards which do not rely on the pin and socket type connection. The design of the SD card contact is quite fool proof and is "self-cleaning" ie every time you slide the card in, the contacts are "wiped" to make good contact so do take out and re-insert your SD card frequently.  We had a customer come in with a Canon with a "card error" - checked it in for repair. When we removed the SD card, there was some corrosion where the camera spade-lug makes contact with the SD card contact - very unusual. All we did was remove and reinsert and the camera worked (we did end up cleaning the contacts.)  When the customer picked up the camera (easiest $10 income for the shop) we asked when was the last time she removed or changed cards - her answer: Never! Yep, that card has been in the camera for 5 years - the length of time she had the camera!!! 


From the design logic point of view, the CF card will always be faster than SD cards.  SD cards have come a long way and that's due to the enormous effort by the SD card consortium to make it the standard of the industry. They succeeded in killing the Xmd, the Memory Stick, and many of the other competitors (remember when there were something like 8 different cards?) CF cards are still around because they are bigger and thus potentially can have multiple chips in it so will have high capacity but more importantly the interface is bit-parallel and byte serial - ie each clock cycle of data transfer moves 8-bits of data at a time (parallel transfer) while the SD card is Bit-Serial - ie each clock cycle transfers 1 bit. So, an SD card will have to clock at 8 times the speed to compete with similarly clocked CF card.  Thus, high end stuff still opts for CF cards.  




#27586 Tethering with the Nikon D7100.

Posted by yauman on 05 October 2014 - 08:20 PM in Tutorials & Tips

You should already have the cable - it comes with your camera but you may want to buy an extension USB as the cable is quite short!

 

If you use Lightroom, it already have tethering fro the Nikon built in - I do product photography and all my daily shooting is via tether with Lightroom.

 

Now, if you don't use Lightroom and you use PC Windows, there's a really good free software (I was one of the early alpha testers) - it works great and even allow you to control your camera from your computer:

http://digicamcontrol.com/

 

If you use Mac, they don't have one for the Mac but I run Wiindow7 using VMWare on my Mac and have test DigiCamControl in that environment successfully.

 

Hope that helps.




#26883 Ok lets move on to my 3rd stupid question (cf cards)

Posted by yauman on 21 September 2014 - 08:42 PM in Beginner Questions

Yes... early and often!!! The memory chip inside the CF card is the same as SD cards (and the same as any memory devices like SSD.)  The differences is in the interface - CF cards communicates with the camera in "parallel" ie 8-bits at a time whereas the SD Card is a "serial" device - ie bits streaming one bit at a time. That's why CF cards have a faster read/write speed than SD cards.




#26388 Lens cover won't close

Posted by yauman on 09 September 2014 - 09:50 PM in Technical Troubleshooting

FYI, the motor that drives these "lens caps barn doors" or the ones that pushes out and retract the lens on point and shoot cameras are very low torque motors - ie very very low power. This is by design to save battery power as electromechanical components are power hogs compare to any other electronic components.  So because the motor has no torque, any little teeny weeny bit of resistance due to dust or dirt accumulation will prevent the door from opening or the lens from projecting or retracting.  This is the MOST common problem we get in our shops repair facility. (I venture to guess that about 80% of the repair requests for P&S are of this problem - the other 20% are cameras getting dunk in water - user forgot or didn't use their wrist strap and lost grip!!!)   So, rule #1 about P&S cameras with retractable lens and barn-door lens caps: DO Not put them in your pocket; it will pick up dust and lint and will eventually get jammed.  Buy a carrying pouch for it and use it - and please use the wrist strap - always!




#26386 D610 question

Posted by yauman on 09 September 2014 - 09:39 PM in Beginner Questions

My latest update to LR is 5.5.

I cleaned the contacts as Merco suggested and now LR recognizes each lens, but I have to first click on "make", toggle down to Nikon and click on that brand.

 

How can I verify if I have the latest upgrade to LR?

The latest LR is 5.6

 

It's easy - just go to About and click on Check for Update and it will take you to the update site.  My LR 5.6 have all the lenses and cameras.  Also, if you are running on a Mac, make sure the OS is up to date. 




#25924 Sent 35mm Lens Back for Warranty Repair

Posted by yauman on 26 August 2014 - 11:03 PM in Technical Troubleshooting

So it only took 10 days.  My 35mm came back today with a bill of $0 which means they did it under warranty. Preliminary check seem to showed that they fixed it.  I'll take it out for a test drive tomorrow.




#25685 Sigma Lens Help Please

Posted by yauman on 19 August 2014 - 07:33 AM in Nikon Lens Discussion

Sigma had not so good a reputation for quality control in the old days - but that's not quite true anymore.

 

Disclaimer: I work in a camera store with an in-house repair facility - but we don't sell Sigmas. We sell Tamrons and they are superb - I shot with Tamron before I work there. If you look at some of the geeky specs, they meet or exceed Nikon's - especially their VR technology.

 

The new Sigmas are very good and at par with Tamrons.  Yes, they had a few bad years - but those days are over.  When an older Sigma comes in the shop, our repair tech after opening it will ask us to come take a look at the double-stick foam tape as shims and other atrocious in the construction. Today, their "Art" lenses series are amazing.  I won't hesitate to buy one.

 

Since you own a crop-sensor, the prime lens for you should be a 35mm - every one should have a prime and a bright one at that. You'll never get the sharpness of a prime or the f/1.8 in an zoom.  As a beginner photography, you need to learn the skill of zooming with your feet and get amazing images.  You mention shooting family members - and here's something you need to keep in mind - don't shoot wide-angle for people - it's very unflattering - that's why model photographers use 70-200mm or prime 105mm for model shoots. With a zoom, you can easily, even unconsciously zoom out to 24mm or less when shooting people. While you may have a technically superb image, the people will look bulgy!  




#25589 Basic question on tripods.

Posted by yauman on 16 August 2014 - 08:46 AM in Bags, Tripods, and Accessories

I am assuming that was to increase stability?

 

Eagle

 

Many of the better tripods for traveling are made light to carry around but they provide a hook at the bottom of the center column to let you hang your backpack or camera bag to up the weight, lower the center of gravity and thus increase the stability of the setup.

 

If you are using a tripod just for selfies and groupies to include yourself in the picture, any $50 tripod will do. But if you are using the tripod to take a night scene of the Eiffel Tower with a 6 min exposure or want to take 5 identical frames for HDR or multiple images for a good panorama, you'll want a high quality, very sturdy one - ie stable with minimal vibration and one with very accurate panning.  




#25578 Sent 35mm Lens Back for Warranty Repair

Posted by yauman on 15 August 2014 - 06:06 PM in Technical Troubleshooting

So, I bought the Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm F1.8G lens last March from Amazon 'cos they had a great deal - $189. But it never work quite right with my D7100 in autofocus mode - always a bit soft under every possible setting. Always had to tweak manually whenever I use the AF setting.  So finally I decided to send it back to get fixed under warranty (1 year warranty.)

 

Used the Web support, entered all info, printing out all the mailing slips etc.  But they required the warranty slip and the invoice which I don't have. Just printed the Amazon payment confirmation and sent with it. So, now I wait and see how well Nikon Repair can take care of this!

 

Will keep you all informed!

 

<Grumble.. grumble.. hate to have to send thing back after purchase!>




#25182 D610 multiple exposure

Posted by yauman on 03 August 2014 - 05:47 PM in Beginner Questions

I don't have experience with the D610 but if it's similar with the D600, yes it sort of have a multiple exposure mode.  It's the same as the "Bracketing" for HDR but just set it to not change EV values on the different exposures.  Also, it's limited to 3 exposure - that's it. And also, no, you cannot scoot back and expose over images you already have in your card - it's a feature not a bug - you have enter the big boys world of semi-pro photo equipment - read on!

 

Now you must understand that with the D610 you have moved into the level of "Pro-Consumer" aka "Professional-Consumer" grade of cameras and all these funky options found in kids cameras or strictly consumer grade cameras will not be easily accessible or even available.  If you want to do multiple exposure, in 2014, you do it in post-production - Photoshop, Elements etc where you can control the overlap and the transparent/opaqueness of each frame when they overlap. It's much more accurate, you have much more control of the shooting environment and the compilation of the shots and certainly will have much better results.




#24862 Converting from Raw to Jpeg

Posted by yauman on 26 July 2014 - 12:36 AM in Post-Processing, Printing, and Scanning

Copy from the card and paste to the desktop.  I import to Lightroom from there.  No clue, will have to play with it.  My knowledge of Lightroom is limited to say the least.

 

Eagle

Wait, why are you doing copy and paste with your card?  Just stick your card into the card read, launch Lightroom and IMPORT directly in Lighroom from the card to whatever folder you like.  No need to for all the convolution.  

 

Also, as others here pointed out, ALL adjustment including WB are available for JPG or RAW files.  The only things missing are lens correction by lens profile and camera profiling as those infos are not embedded in the JPG.

 

So here's the "rule of thumb" - if you want or intend to post-process extensively, shoot RAW - if you just want to do minor tweaks and you are shooting lot and lots of images, shoot JPG!  Remember the mantra "Real Pro's Shoot JPG!" When I shoot events, I shoot JPG, when I shoot models, I shoot RAW.  




#24669 Just bought a set of MagMod Flash Modifiers...

Posted by yauman on 20 July 2014 - 08:11 PM in Strobist Corner

Nah.. I won't worry about that either :) The SD card specification requires a 3.3v to 5v pulse for the "write" clocking circuit and very specific clocking frequency to change any bits. So I doubt you can induce an electrical signal in a magnetic field strong enough to induce that level of signal short of spinning it inside an MRI 1.5Tesla magnetic field.  Hmm.. that's a great experiment to try - see if I can ask my MRI research friends to send an SD card through one of those things in a patient's pocket!  Will report back!  I'm sure Schrodinger's Cat will be amused if not bemused!  :rolleyes:




#24600 Just bought a set of MagMod Flash Modifiers...

Posted by yauman on 19 July 2014 - 11:03 AM in Strobist Corner

This looks really useful, however I have my doubts and neo magnets and memory cards / camera electronics. Any feedback on this yet?

 

As a retired physicist/instrumentation engineer, let me assure you that there is nothing even remotely magnetic in the memory cards. So no worries. The "1" and "0" written into the chip are different quantum states and not affected by magnetic energy. Now cosmic ray? Not so sure, as incoming photons may have enough energy to bump a bit into a different quantum state. So if you leave an SD card on top of Mt Everest, it may degrade in say a few hundred years! :(




#24563 Now officially a Nikon film shooter.. almost

Posted by yauman on 18 July 2014 - 03:33 PM in Film Photography

Ok, you want a great prime lens for your Nikon film camera?  How about a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 !  Now that's nice - don't remember the last time I've seen a f/1.2 lens!




#24555 Problem with Lightroom...

Posted by yauman on 18 July 2014 - 09:56 AM in Post-Processing, Printing, and Scanning

Here's the cheat sheet for LightRoom.

 

One of the best keystroke shortcut is actually not listed - it's a compound key but worth remembering and using. In develop mode, set the tool panel to "Solo Mode" so only one set of tools are opened at one time - ie open another tool set and the other one will close.  Now, use "Cmd-1", "Cmd-2" etc to open the tools instead of clicking on the little expand triangle icon. ie Cmd-1 will open the Basic tool panel, Cmd-7 will open the Len correction panel etc.  Saves a lot of time especially towards end of edit session when you have to jump around to make final tweaks.

Attached Thumbnails

  • LightRoom KeyStrokes.jpg



#24543 Problem with Lightroom...

Posted by yauman on 18 July 2014 - 12:12 AM in Post-Processing, Printing, and Scanning

When using the brush, remember the "o" key (alphabet "o") is your friend - it toggles the overlay mask on and off - On to see your coverage and Off to see the result.